My current house is "reversed" as well. It's 3-stories/five levels to maximize the ocean views. First level is the foyer/garage, half-flight up is the master facing the ocean, half up from that are two guest rooms facing the street, half up is a story-and-half great room facing the ocean (over the master bedroom footprint). Half-flight up from that is the kitchen, dining room and library, all with ocean and street views. Every morning, looking at the sunrise and dolphins in the waves I know it's worth it to carry groceries all the way up!

Hey Dave1812. Thanks for the information. This is my specific scenario: My machine will be going on the main floor over a basement. One story house. The machine will be in the corner of 2 perpendicular load bearing walls. the span for the joist in this room is about 8 or 9 feet. the floor's bottom layer has 1x6 old diagonal boards on top of 2x8 doug fir joist 16"oc, then a layer of 3/4 Sturdi floor glued and screwed 6"oc entire area, then 3/8 a-c ply and screwed 6"oc to the Sturdi floor, followed by 1/4" self leveling compound in a plastic mesh (electric heating too), layer of Strata-Mat (Laticrete's Ditra equivalent), and finally tile. Any thoughts on more support on top of the tile? My Miele set to be stacked will be here Tuesday :) I was thinking that I could put a double layer of Sturdi floor set on top of the tile and put the W/D on top of that. But the ply wouldn't be mounted to anything. Another GW member stated that he used mass loaded vinyl sheet between the 2 layers of ply, glued and screwed together then set on the floor over a rug friction mat. I would do that but I can't find any MLV without buying a ton of it. Another option is that I could put the stall mat mentioned above by the OP between a couple of layers of Sturdi floor ply, glued and screwed. It will also lift the set up a bit from the floor and ease the need to bend over so far.

In our first house we had one level, and W/D near the garage entry. Next and current house is 2-story with laundry room on 2nd floor, and I love it. But, it just depends on how you live and how you actually "do" your laundry. For us, by that time, our girls were school-aged. So I was not tending a baby and folding lots of little baby things. The upstairs is just great since the laundry is in the middle of the hall, with baths and BR's on either end, so all linens and clothes just go there. You can dash and get something from the dryer to put on, or a warm towel. I don't think it's as simple as "where you spend your time" with the exception of watching small children, but maybe more about how you attack the clean clothes, and whether you have bedrooms on 2 floors or all upstairs. Or maybe as pointed out, if you do 10 loads of laundry in one day, you then are having a real laundry project, like a cooking project, and tending it most of the day. So those habits and preferences will affect what works best. I spread my laundry loads throughout the week, and so tending 1 or 2 loads in a given evening overlaps with other trips up or down stairs to do other things. With the upstairs laundry, I bring a hamper to my room and fold clothes and towels and put them directly in the closets/drawers. I may use the bed to make piles of folded stuff. I listen to radio or talk with my husband or just, you know, think deep thoughts. (Girls (esp in past years) take hampers to room and who knows what they do then? Not my problem). There is room in the laundry to fold there, so I might do some towels there, but otherwise I don't, since I would then have to just stack stuff in hamper and bring back and dig out again. So, I prefer my current system to an off-the kitchen system in which I'd haul stuff upstairs or fold stuff on the sofa. I don't have a mudroom and wish I did. I think that definitely influences laundry gameplans, since then you have other advantages of the mudroom and how your organize the flow of clothes and stuff. If one or more family members have to deal with dirty work clothes/uniforms, or maybe just active kids and sports stuff, that can be an advantage if you are organizing the clothes and shoes off upon entry. I guess you have to put on a robe or something to come trouping through the living room after stripping? But for those who have less frequent "toxic" clothes, you could just have a drop-off hamper at the entry point. I think it's less universal than kitchen design, which while still very personal, has the somewhat universal issues of work triangles and door-openings and things for the basic layout, and then moves on to more preference-based issues for how and where you eat, do homework, watch TV.

Warm in the attic is not the primary reason for keeping the ducts indoors, it is pressure differentials induced by leaky ducts. In supplies, leaks cause make-up air to be drawn into the house from air leaks in the envelope. In returns, leaks cause air to be drawn out of air leaks in the envelope. (Poor return vs. supply balancing can do similar.) How high is the ceiling in the hallway? If there is enough space, the classic right way to do this is probably to fur down the ceiling for ducts and put the AHU in the attic within a sealed box that is made contiguous with the indoor space. Done right, the difference in ceiling heights can be architecturally pleasing.