Thank you, Green Designs. Yes, the cross bracing would help, as well as added strength of metal brackets. Any suggestions whom to hire to do this? A carpenter I should think. I realize I forgot the helpful discussion I mentioned so here it is. Here is a link that might be useful: Link:

The evaporator fan is somewhere behind the rear panel in the freezer section, yes. The parts diagrams for your model are "exploded" (each subsystem is on a separate page) so it's a little difficult to determine how it fits together for exact location. Probably is behind the area just below the ice bin shelf. Cold air falls so it probably pulls air up through the cooling coil, blows upward from behind the panel toward the ice maker for the air to then circulate down over the shelves. Note that a non-working defrost system can also cause cooling problems. The cooling coil gets "clogged" with frost build-up which interferes with proper airflow. The rear panel in the freezer typically shows evidence of frosting on the surface, which doesn't appear to be your situation (although you mentioned above that you manually defrosted).

Trying to make progress even though I'm using a temporary (for me) drawing program. My sketch is incomplete. We don't have a good idea of what the left or right front of the house looks due to being absent in the pictures or covered in shrubbery. Nevertheless this can cover some of the basic points. Sorry if I'm repeating myself or something someone else has already said but I don't want to re-read all. I would not bring planting bed alongside the walk toward the driveway. doing so will make the walk seem much smaller when in fact it would be better if it was wider. Too, it will add to maintenance and it will not look as good as if you had nicely edged turf there. A truth about turf is that it will not grow in too much shade. It's time to divide out those areas from the lawn where it won't grow and turn them into groundcover. I disagree with your idea of planting so many things -- 3 stripes of plants -- in front of the foundation. There simply isn't room and this busy scheme will not look near as good as a single plant in front of a given part of the foundation. Color fits flanking the entrance. A low evergreen shrub or groundcover could surround the bay windows and shrubs or low plantings could be farther away (this is the area we don't yet know.) We don't know what the condition of the lawn at the left side of front yard is either. If a tree is far enough away from the others and limbed up high enough that sufficient light gets below it, it's possible to grow grass. If otherwise, then it's not and that area should be sectioned for groundcover. A small (12'-15') multi-trunk tree (made of a large shrub) could be off the right corner of house.

We've been distributing US Cabinet Depot cabinets to our customers for years and have never had a single warranty claim for issues with their HDF doors. I cannot speak to other companies' HDF quality or their finish quality. If the finish is thin, water will get in. If the finish is done properly and meets the appropriate Mil thickness, then water will never get to the HDF. Many US-made cabinets have to adhere to strict finish requirements and use Water Borne finishes, or types of lacquer that are thin and allow moisture. US Cabinet Depot cabinets have a great finish and use conversion varnish. I've always been an "all-wood guy" until we started working with USCD. Once cabinet line we used to distribute constantly cracked at the stile and rail joint. We were always having problems. So it is also very much about the manufacturer and the process they use for the materials they use. A "Real Wood" cabinet door can have lots of issues if the wood is not properly dried, or glued. And a company that uses HDF will have problems if the finish is thin, or water based. I recommend US cabinet depot as we've never had a single issue. If you're going to buy cabinets with HDF doors, just make sure the finish is either Conversion Varnish or Solvent-Based PU Urethane. NOT waterborne or lacquer.