Question about kidney transplant
krmarchese
5 years ago
last modified: 5 years ago
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maifleur01
5 years agoRelated Discussions
Questions About Transplanting Daffodils and Tulips Now
Comments (6)I have already dug my tulips as of the last week in May, after flowering but with no yellowing on the leaves at all. I left all the foliage attached which has now dried off and I am getting a good cure and have a three or four-fold increase in blooming size bulbs and a pile of dinks on top of it. My favorite are red Apeldoorns. These will keep nicely well into the fall; so do not worry about storing cured tulips - or daffodils - over the summer. As long as they stay dry you can store them in a corner of the garage just fine. (The Dutch do it yearly by the billions of bulbs...) This is a common way of handling tulips generally getting a two season bed by digging the tulip bulbs, curing them to store out of the ground over the summer after their bloom is done and replanting some other summer flowering plant, such as cannas, which are themselves dug up for winter storage and summer stored dormant tulips are replanted after frost in the fall for the next spring. Quite naturally the beds get re-fertilized and conditioned with every replant and generally also mulched. Some cut flower growers dig their tulips yearly and replant them in freshly worked soil in the fall, very often having surplus bulbs in the process, and a full summer bed for other plantings. I replant my tulips every year, actually about the same time as I put in my fall garlic. What that does is allow me to rework and refeed the beds. Used up nutrients is the most usual reason tulips decline or "run out". They quite naturally get redivided then too, which will also increase flower size and quality. I see no reason not to use a similar technique on daffodils. I use the old window screens in my front screen porch for curing all my bulbs, including garlic and onions, as well as tulips. Works well for potatoes, too. For daffodils as opposed to garlic and tulips an early planting for as long a fall rooting period as possible gives the best results. If your gifted daffodils are cured they also should hold until time to plant them later or as you wish. Dig, cure and store is my advice for your bulbs. Also spraying with something like Roundup is about the only sure way to reduce quack and creeping jenny, both of which are really hard-assed, hardy perennial weeds with extensive root systems. Creeping Jenny has documented roots growing as deep as 20', and every little bit of either will grow a new patch. Personally I would suggest scorched earth until fall for best eradication, BEFORE you till for the first time. Just get your tulips out before you spray anything. There is no safely organic or PC correct way I know to control either of these two weeds. BTW neither is native to North America, showing what accidental or indiscriminate spread of exotic species can do. No mulch at all will prevent quack and creeping jenny, unless it smothers everything, and even then the outcome is questionable, not that a mulch as part of the finished bed is not a good thing, but established plants of fully aggressive perennials like these two will come right through nearly all of them. It will pay you to kill as many of the established weeds as possible, since mulch later is much more effective on the new seedlings that are sure to follow....See Moredays-to-maturity question about vegetable transplants
Comments (3)If you search DTM (days to maturity) here you'll find many discussions about this but basically DTM is from day of transplanting for those varieties that are normally grown from transplants. So a 60 DTM transplant such as a tomato plant is 60 days from setting out. It is from the day of seeding for the items that are commonly direct seeded. As often mentioned here DTM is nothing more than a very general guideline and should not be construed as anything more than that - a very general guideline. Dave...See MoreQuestion About Transplanting Daylilies
Comments (6)Most of the plants are a year old, some are two years. I dont plan to do any dividing....just want to replenish the soil and raise the beds. Usually I topdress my beds with composted horse manure, mix of mushroom compost/barkfines/sand but havent in the last couple of years, the beds have sunk and the plants suffered in our 105 temps last summer - I want to get them back in first class shape. I plan to just do a section at a time so I can dig a rootball around the lilies, put them in the shade and sprinkle them with water while I am putting the new soil in the bed, then replant them. I plan to dig them, rework the beds then have them back in place as the sun is fading, so they will have the evening and night to settle back in. Of course this means I will have to be shoveling soil in the heat of the afternoon, but so what? Oh, and one other question......I have quite a few potted lilies that are doing well and have bloomed this year. When I get these beds finished [and am building a couple of new ones], will it be OK to go ahead and plant the potted lilies, even it if means they will be in alot of sun once planted? If so, any special treatment I should give them? I thought about errecting some stakes and staple sunfabric over them for protection. Any thoughts on this? Thanks, appreciate the advice!! Judith...See MoreUpdate on my Kidney Transplant
Comments (29)Good news indeed. I think your levels will even out eventually. I would urge you to just eat as well as you can and drink some water throughout the day. We used to soak potatoes in water for a couple of hours before making mashed potatoes to cut down on potassium. Also, are you a cola drinker?...See MoreElmer J Fudd
5 years agolast modified: 5 years agoElizabeth
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