Insofar as arts & crafts style meant honest materials/ design your heavy 6x6 newels/guardrails are fine. By honest materials, I mean shingles and heavy timbers that aren't ashamed about what they are. 20 years previous, Victorians embraced the idea of all forms of sham and pretense. The porch posts were more like table legs writ large. The popular furniture style du jour was expended into the porch, the cornice, and the dormers! If a material could be tortured into a convoluted shape by saw or blade, it was. Or they cast it in plaster and tacked it on. Was it supposed to be emulating ancient stonework? then paint wood it and embed the surface with sand! Instant faux-stone. Things would not always (if ever?) be what they appeared. A&C was a reaction against this, and timber and shingle and natural lines without artifice and pretension were embraced. Your little bungalow is a simple expression of an honest ideal. "Let things be what they are". They _did_ like to use oversize elements, especially on the porch. Think of the huge pyramidal rounded fieldstone piers, and knee-braces and timbered gable decorations. Brutalism is something else entirely. It's about raw unfinished (and intentionally roughened) concrete surfaces. Not 6x6 porch railings. I grew up in a 1938 house that was sort of a stone cape cod and adirondack lodge combo. It had a third-floor interior balcony/catwalk enclosed with 4x6 white pine rails and 6x6 newel posts. Woodsy, but not brutal. The stair treads were solid 6x10's. I should scan the construction photo album from that place some day... Casey

When I hear of someone using cedar for railing, I feel I must tell them of my experience.18 years ago the popular belief( at least at my lumberyard) was that cedar was low maintainence and lasts forever. So I sided, trimmed, railed and decked w/ cedar( white cedarsiding, red cedar everywhere else). It was beautiful afterward. We stained w/cabots, used sikins on the deck. After 5 years we noticed, especially the deck and rail, that everywhere cedar touched cedar( the butt joint at the post/ rail and post /deck) it was getting soft. We hadn't sealed the end grain before installation nor did we caulk each joint. By year 12 the railings fell off and the posts and decking boards rotted along each edge ( we didn't space the deck boards enough, thinking they would shrink- they might have even expanded). A word to the wise, wait until a stretch of dry weather and silicone caulk those joints. Fine Homebuilding Magazine recognized this problem and published an article a few years after we built and after the damage was done. They recommended geotextiles layered between built up trim and cutting chamfer grouves at the butt joints for the caulk to adhere better- esentially a miniture pitch pocket for the caulk. Good luck w/ the cedar.

Here is what little I know about codes. That deck doesn't fit in NC but we are ocean and the concern is wave action. FL is generally much stricter but the usual place I hear about is Miami Dade. Gulf side is much different. And then you have a barrier island in front of you. We build upper deck on full pilings (12 inch?). The same ones that the house is on which look a little bigger than yours. My concern (what do I know) is the upper deck is currently held up by something like 2x4's. There has to be something more coming right? The best house is a hurricane is a smooth sphere. Don't want anything to catch wind. I would be concerned (again ocean front) that the wind would rip the deck off and act as missiles to the house. That is a concern with any deck of course - but you would want it to be as strong as possible. Code is incredibly regional and I would hope you have confidence in your engineers.

you need to work with a pro who has a little creativity because your objections really shouldn't be a big deal. To keep the p/t lumber from being visible, use a stainless steel grommet in the ipe post trim with a hole bigger than the one holding the cable in the p/t post. for the cap rail, do a metal cap rail to meet code, then router a channel in the ipe and mount it to that. Done. It'll take a little bit of design time to ensure that all your proportions are right and everything ties together appropriately and structurally, but there are definitely ways to get the look you want while satisfying the permit store. Obviously not dimensionally accurate or really thought through in terms of attachments, but here's the gist.