Sorry, but the above is incorrect, if you have a cord and plug connected dishwasher. The circuit must be a 20A circuit and 12-2 (or larger) wires. There's no exception.

If the dishwasher is hard wired, then you need to follow the manufacturer guidance as to circuit size and use an OCD no larger than what this prescribes or what the wiring ampacity allows.

Ignoring for the moment the 14 gauge wire, there aren't many situations that would call for a 30 amp single pole breaker in a residential setting. What does this breaker control now? What I'm thinking is that the previous owner upped the breaker to, dangerously, eliminate nuisance trips. That also leaves me wondering what other idiocy the previous owner may have done.

To answer your question, you could use one 20-amp circuit for both the disposal and dishwasher. That would call for 12 gauge wire.

It might be a good idea to have a licensed electrician wire the new circuit and give things the once over while he's here.

What is this breaker supplying now? Identify the outlet(s). For example if one outlet is supplied that receptacle has to be rated for 30 amps just like the wire from the breaker. Most likely given the 14g wire, the receptacle will be a 15A. You can identify the manufacturer of your circuit breaker box and get a 15A breaker. Turn off the power at the main breaker. Loosen the bolts for the breaker box cover and remove.. Then disconnect the wire from the 30A breaker and remove the breaker. It can snap in. Snap in a 15A replacement. Connect the wire. Replace the cover and turn the main breakers back on. But I'd check the 14g wire for continuity and wonder why someone put that 30A breaker in your box.

No, Dan, you are telling them to replace one illegal circuit with another illegal circuit (possibly safer, but still illegal).

14G is NOT PERMITTED HERE on any size breaker.

Kitchen receptacle outlets with small exception (and those do not apply here) MUST be on an 20A circuit (which implies 12G or larger wire).

14g wire is what many homes were wired with for 15A circuits. Pretty much standard last century. So the circuit in the OP's home was likely legal when built. We don't know the requirements at that time. Returning it to it's original status would be my first step with the checks I mentioned. Who knows what else may impact the final disposition? The circuit box breakers may be no longer available and a whole new box could be necessary. We don't have enough info to say at this point. If you want to pull new wire to replace the 14g then 12g with a 12g receptacle for each of your appliances is preferred. One for the DW and one for the garbage disposal.

Obviously it's not for appliance circuits, which is what we're talking about here, but to be clear, there's nothing wrong with AWG14 for lighting circuits.

In fact, IMO the NEC should acknowledge that thanks to LEDs, lighting now requires 80-90% less power, and allow AWG16 or even #18 for domestic lighting circuits. Think of it, 7 amp breakers, and NM as flexible as bell wire. :)

Nothing wrong with 14G when protected by a 15A breaker UNLESS the code specifically calls out a 20A circuit being necessary, which it does here.

Ron - I thought the newest NEC specified a dedicated dishwasher circuit, and GFCI protection with accessible reset for a dishwasher, but I don't think it listed amperage. Only the two small appliance circuits are required to be 20 amp.

My dishwasher has a 20 amp GFCI receptacle under the sink (where its accessible), and then the dishwasher is plugged into it. When they replaced the dishwasher last year that was sufficient.

For the OP, a 15 amp GFCI breaker should also be fine if the receptacle access is blocked after the dishwasher is installed. You must be able to view and reset the GFCI without pulling out the dishwasher.

Bruce

Actually, the 2017 code did indeed change this. I stand somewhat corrected. In 2014 and earlier codes there was an exception for dedicated refrigeration circuit. In the 2017 code, it was changed to any single receptacle for "a specific appliance." This circuit could be 15A. If you have a circuit with receptacles for multiple appliances (say a disposal and a dishwasher) it needs to be 20A.

As for GFCI, the operative change for dishwashers was in the 2014 code. Prior codes said "within 6' of a sink in other than kitchens". The "other than kitchens" was removed so that undersink receptacle in the kitchen needs a GFCI.

Yes, a GFCI needs to be installed in a "readily accessible" location. Now the question is whether pulling the dishwasher to get to it is contradictory to "readily accessible." Article 1 pretty much says that means you don't have to use tools or remove obstacles to get to it. The dishwasher is a pretty big obstacle.

I've always put the receptacles for the dishwasher in the sink cabinet anyhow, even when it wasn't required by the code, it's a royal pain to do otherwise.

Ron, which code is the OP's local jurisdiction currently following?

And, does this old load center accept quality OCPDs?

But to get serious, seems like too much hack work. Get a licensed electrician to check over the system.

Don't know, which code they used, that's why I discussed the changes in the last three versions.

Having an antiquated panel doesn't give you any exemption to the code. (And oddly the only OCPD is Obssessive-Compulsive Personality Disorder. Overcurrent is all one word).

"Having an antiquated panel doesn't give you any exemption to the code."

Having an antiquated panel with sorry OCPDs means that you cannot always rely upon them tripping/blowing. So if the OPs code version to follow allows 15a, which it very well may, and they have fpe/zin or similar junk, then there is an exception to aiming for code minimum.

Internet advice without knowing the situation is flat wrong or dangerous.

"(And oddly the only OCPD is Obssessive-Compulsive Personality Disorder. Overcurrent is all one word)."

One word, but has always been shortened when typed to OCPD. I only posted to this mess because you wrote OCD in your "no exceptions" first post.

The answer to the question is "No."

The rest of this thread is about OCPD!

Personally, I like it that electricians are OCPD about OCPD. Or OCD about OCD. or. you get the picture....

Having electricians obsessive about getting things correct is a good thing, Whether it is about overcurrent protective devices (OCPD), ground fault circuit interrupters (GFCI) arc fault (AFCI).

Am I correct in assuming that OCD/OCPD are what are commonly referred to as breakers?