Ficus Benjamina
Dave
5 years ago
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tropicbreezent
5 years agoUser
5 years agoRelated Discussions
Triggers for Ficus Benjamina fruit-bearing
Comments (25)Thanks! And tropic, yes ive heard of that. the tree has equally put as much if not more energy into leaf production as well. it likely was stressed, but im sure is easing up. when i took the cutting, it was maybe 6” and and from the original tree that never fruited once. this one has been doing this for a few years now. i used to pick them off, but there are too many. im just going to let it do what it wants. also glad to see they still havent fixed this mobile app. i havrnt been around in a couple years....See MoreFicus benjamina (& most other commonly grown tropical Ficus)
Comments (64)@JMJ 4Life Really sorry to learn about your tree. I assume some part of the root mass is fused, so the soil/root mass remains intact like so: If the answer is yes, unpot the plant and set the root/soil mass on a stack of newspapers, rags, old towels, dry sponges - something that will PULL excess water from the soil. Allow it to rest on the wicking material for an hour or two before returning it to the pot it fits. Use a wooden "tell" to "tell" you when it's time to water, because with no water loss from foliage, the plant will require very little water. Using a 'tell' Over-watering saps vitality and is one of the most common plant assassins, so learning to avoid it is worth the small effort. Plants make and store their own energy source – photosynthate - (sugar/glucose). Functioning roots need energy to drive their metabolic processes, and in order to get it, they use oxygen to burn (oxidize) their food. From this, we can see that terrestrial plants need plenty of air (oxygen) in the soil to drive root function. Many off-the-shelf soils hold too much water and not enough air to support the kind of root health most growers would like to see; and, a healthy root system is a prerequisite to a healthy plant. Watering in small sips in order to avoid over-watering leads to a residual build-up of dissolved solids (salts) in the soil from tapwater and fertilizer solutions - which limits a plant's ability to absorb water – so watering in sips simply moves us to the other horn of a dilemma and creates another problem that requires resolution. Better, would be to simply adopt a soil that drains well enough to allow watering to beyond the saturation point, so we're flushing the soil of accumulating dissolved solids whenever we water; this, w/o the plant being forced to pay a tax in the form of reduced vitality, due to prolong periods of soil saturation. Sometimes, though, that's not a course we can immediately steer, which makes controlling how often we water a very important factor. In many cases, we can judge whether or not a planting needs watering by hefting the pot. This is especially true if the pot is made from light material, like plastic, but doesn't work (as) well when the pot is made from heavier material, like clay, or when the size/weight of the pot precludes grabbing it with one hand to judge its weight and gauge the need for water. Fingers stuck an inch or two into the soil work ok for shallow pots, but not for deep pots. Deep pots might have 3 or more inches of soil that feels totally dry, while the lower several inches of the soil is 100% saturated. Obviously, the lack of oxygen in the root zone situation can wreak havoc with root health and cause the loss of a very notable measure of your plant's potential. Inexpensive watering meters don't even measure moisture levels, they measure electrical conductivity. Clean the tip and insert it into a cup of distilled water and witness the fact it reads 'DRY'. One of the most reliable methods of checking a planting's need for water is using a 'tell' (more reliable than a 'moisture meter'. You can use a bamboo skewer in a pinch, but a wooden dowel rod of about 5/16” (75-85mm) works better. They usually come 48” (120cm) long and can usually be cut in half or in several pieces, depending on how deep your pots are. Sharpen both ends of each tell in a pencil sharpener and slightly blunt the tip so it's about the diameter of the head on a straight pin. Push the wooden tell deep into the soil. Don't worry, it won't harm the root system. If the plant is quite root-bound, you might need to try several places until you find one where you can push it all the way to the pot's bottom. Leave it a few seconds, then withdraw it and inspect the tip for moisture. For most plantings, withhold water until the tell's tip comes out nearly dry. If you see signs of wilting, adjust the interval between waterings so drought stress isn't a recurring issue. Al...See MoreFicus benjamina 'White Spot' Problem
Comments (27)OMG - having just noticed this condition, I.e. observation, while cleaning and trimming my 12’ ficus, that was also dropping leaves, I have to say, 1) I’m glad I didn’t try to do anything about it, other than knocking off the waxy globs, before I consulted the “internet” meaning, you guys ... 2) my husband and I are laughing our heads off reading this thread - hysterical debate - thanks for the laugh ... 3) sorry Ficus, no way you’ll be pollinating anything anytime soon! ... on a more instructive note, I’ll just say that my ficus has always been very hardy and not very fussy. However, I had moved it to a less sunny spot to accommodate our Christmas Tree. It didn’t seem to care for that location, so it had started dropping some leaves, causing me to search for extraneous clues, and finding the white globs ... I am happy yo report it is now back in its original sunny spot, has been trimmed and had leaves spritzed and cleaned. I’m sure will be a happy camper once again, very soon! Fondest regards to everyone and their ficus trees!...See MoreHelp me save this 40 year old ficus benjamina!
Comments (9)Interesting and useful advice indeed for the little "story" about my 20-ish year old hibiscus. I don't repot, per se, as I like the pot mine is in, but I lift, root trim, and replace some soil when I can and if needed (I confess to sometimes dumping the old stuff back with the trimmed roots to rot back in, but that's not recommended, but you do what you have to do when you start this and find out you don't have enough soil to replace what you just knocked off; it works if it has to). It works well enough. And I feed regularly-- sometimes organically (rarely solid and often liquid), plus sometimes synthetics in that one, plus flush the pot occasionally in the sink or outdoors in summer to remove built-up salt (not particularly critical for hibiscus, but helpful a few times a year for many plants, and it gives me a chance to clean the drip tray and pot base). Before the counter-factual argument starts: Yes, I acknowledge that reusing soil is not recommended. I said that. Yes, I'm aware of how decay works. And yes, it does work in pots, as bacteria and fungi are active in them. No, I don't do solids every time. I said that. Top trimming, as well (and not mentioned in most of the above posts) can help keep your plant in tip-top shape. I cut back the hibiscus regularly to keep it shaped properly, and keep the growth fresh and at the height where I like it, as well as keep the blooms near eye level as opposed to near the ceiling. Otherwise, it would regrettably lose all its lower leaves. Check any good ficus guide for cutting back; as it's probably currently fully root bound and not very happy, it won't need that until well after other issues are taken care of first, but it's something to consider....See MoreDave
5 years agoTiffany, purpleinopp Z8b Opp, AL
5 years agogardengal48 (PNW Z8/9)
5 years agotropicbreezent
5 years agoTiffany, purpleinopp Z8b Opp, AL
5 years agoDave
5 years agotropicbreezent
5 years agoDave
5 years agopetrushka (7b)
5 years agoDave
5 years agoDave
5 years agoDave
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5 years agoDave
5 years agolast modified: 5 years agoDave
5 years agolast modified: 5 years agopetrushka (7b)
5 years agoAmynoacids (z6 MI)
5 years agoDave
5 years agopetrushka (7b)
5 years agoTiffany, purpleinopp Z8b Opp, AL
5 years agoAmynoacids (z6 MI)
5 years agoDave
5 years agolast modified: 5 years agoSage TX 9a
5 years ago
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