It's oedema. a physiological disorder that can affect all plants. It occurs when the plant takes up more water than it can rid itself of via the process of transpiration. In afflicted plants, internal water pressure (turgidity) can become so high that some leaf cells rupture or cell contents leak into inter-cellular spaces in leaf tissue. Oedema is most often driven by excessive water retention in the soil, but cool temperatures, high humidity levels, low light conditions, or partial defoliation can individually or collectively be additional contributors, as can anything else that slows transpiration. As well, nutritional deficiencies of Ca and Mg are known contributors to the malady. Symptoms vary by plant, but can include wet or weepy areas on the foliage, blisters that turn from white or tan to dark brown or black, then gradually turn corky/ scaly/ ridged, and wart-like or gall-like bumpy growth. Al

Hold an image of a soil made of BBs in your mind's eye. Now water the soil. Even in your mind's eye, you can't see water in the large spaces between the particles. Erase that image and imagine a soil of all small particles - like peat, coir, compost, composted forest products, ...... Now water it and note how much water is retained between the much smaller particles. Particle size is what drives the kind of water retention that's unwanted. Where a soil like this holds no water between the particles (except where the particles contact each other). Soils that consist of fine materials like those listed hold LOTS of water between particles. The finer the particles, the more water they support. It's not at all unusual to see a 4" or taller perched water table in pots filled with water-retentive media. What that means is, after a thorough watering 4-6" of the soil at the bottom of the pot might well be fully (as in 100%) saturated, and it's this excess water that is so limiting. How do you flush your FLF without over-watering? The easiest and best way is to make sure a significantly dominant fraction of your medium (75-80%) is chunky material, preferably in the 1/8-3/8 size range so the soil holds very little or no perched water. You can also put some simple science to work in order to trick most of the potentially excessive volume of water into leaving the pot. If you're interested, let me know. Al

The brown on the leaves is from over watering. Dont water once a week, water when the plant needs it. Get a wooden dowel, sharpen it and stick it in the soil all the way to the bottom. If it comes out dark, damp with soil stuck to it, do not water. Keep checking every couple days until it comes out mostly clean and dry with no soil stuck to it. Then it's time to water. water so about 15% comes out the drain hole on the bottom. Discard the water collected in the saucer immediately. tipping the pot 45° after watering will also help drain extra perched water. you can also stop misting. It doesn't do anything. Ligjt, put it right up in a front of an unobstructed southern facing window if you have one.

Ficus lyrata are notorious for being difficult plants for a beginner/black thumb, but I think plants are not difficult as long as you give them what they need. That being said they enjoy lots of light so I'm thinking your placement is good. Doesn't look unhealthy to me, but keep an eye out for unexpected leaf loss. I can't tell what those brown spots are though, could be nothing. They also do not like to move around too much...so wherever you decide let it settle. My experience with drainage is always holes. I pot the plant in the black plastic pots like the ones from the nursery and set it inside the nice pot. This provides good drainage and you can easily move or repot the plant while still using the pretty pot. If you want to leave it in your current set up just make sure you don't overwater. Disclaimer: I am not an expert, but figured I would share the little I do know.