Forget the advice from "some guy at the store." Wood conditioners are meant to prevent splotching, but they do a poor job at that. Stains are of two basic types - Pigments : finely ground powders - Dyes : chemicals that are dissolved Think of third grade science where you put dirt in a jar of water and shook it and sugar in a jar of water and shook it. What was the difference the next day? The dirt mostly settled out to the bottom. The sugar remained in solution. Pigments work like the dirt and dye like the sugar. The big contrast comes about because the earlywood (large pores) get a lot of pigment in them and the latewood (hard and smooth), does not absorb so much because it's wiped off. Dyes, on the other hand will absorb more evenly and reduce the contrast (at least color wise). So, what you want is a dye. Problem is, Minwax stains are sometimes dyes, sometimes pigments, and often both. They don't tell you. I suggest looking up Bob Flexner's "Understanding Wood Finishing" at your local library, where he shows photos of oak dyed on one half and pigmented on the other. Then get some scrap of oak and test out your intended products and processes on the scrap before starting on your newel post. It's easier to not make a mistake than it is to recover from one. You can get dyes at most woodworking stores such as Rockler and Woodcraft, or via mail order. You can control the concentration by how much dye you add to solvent (distilled water in most cases). So you might want to mix up a series of concentrations and apply each to see the resulting color. But to see the true color, you will have to apply the finish coats as finishes intensify the stain colors.

To attach a newel post you will need to open up the ceiling below to be able to attach it to the floor framing. Hopefully there will be space for it and the flooring above won't need to be removed. You will need to do that at the top of the stair and at the intermediate landing. In the IRC these elements are called guards and handrails. A guard prevents you from falling over the edge of a floor opening or the open side of a stairway. A handrail is required at one side of a stair. They each have different height requirements but one can serve as both on a stair if the following code requirements are met: R311.7.8 Handrails. Handrails shall be provided on at least one side of each continuous run of treads or flight with four or more risers. R311.7.8.1 Height. Handrail height, measured vertically from the sloped plane adjoining the tread nosing, or finish surface of ramp slope, shall be not less than 34 inches (864 mm) and not more than 38 inches (965 mm). Exceptions: 1. The use of a volute, turnout or starting easing shall be allowed over the lowest tread. When handrail fittings or bendings are used to provide continuous transition between flights, transitions at winder treads, the transition from handrail to guardrail, or used at the start of a flight, the handrail height at the fittings or bendings shall be permitted to exceed the maximum height. R311.7.8.2 Continuity. Handrails for stairways shall be continuous for the full length of the flight, from a point directly above the top riser of the flight to a point directly above the lowest riser of the flight. Handrail ends shall be returned or shall terminate in newel posts or safety terminals. Handrails adjacent to a wall shall have a space of not less than 11/2 inch (38 mm) between the wall and the handrails. Exceptions: 1. Handrails shall be permitted to be interrupted by a newel post at the turn. 2. The use of a volute, turnout, starting easing or starting newel shall be allowed over the lowest tread. R312.1 Guards. Guards shall be provided in accordance with Sections R312.1.1 through R312.1.4. R312.1.1 Where required. Guards shall be located along open-sided walking surfaces, including stairs, ramps and landings, that are located more than 30 inches (762 mm) measured vertically to the floor or grade below at any point within 36 inches (914 mm) horizontally to the edge of the open side. Insect screening shall not be considered as a guard. R312.1.2 Height. Required guards at open-sided walking surfaces, including stairs, porches, balconies or landings, shall be not less than 36 inches (914 mm) high measured vertically above the adjacent walking surface, adjacent fixed seating or the line connecting the leading edges of the treads. Exceptions: 1. Guards on the open sides of stairs shall have a height not less than 34 inches (864 mm) measured vertically from a line connecting the leading edges of the treads. 2. Where the top of the guard also serves as a handrail on the open sides of stairs, the top of the guard shall not be less than 34 inches (864 mm) and not more than 38 inches (965 mm) measured vertically from a line connecting the leading edges of the treads. R312.1.3 Opening limitations. Required guards shall not have openings from the walking surface to the required guard height which allow passage of a sphere 4 inches (102 mm) in diameter. Exceptions: 1. The triangular openings at the open side of stair, formed by the riser, tread and bottom rail of a guard, shall not allow passage of a sphere 6 inches (153 mm) in diameter. 2. Guards on the open side of stairs shall not have openings which allow passage of a sphere 43/8 inches (111 mm) in diameter.

I worry that there are no Newel Post at the top and bottom of each stair run.....you need them or the rail will swing all over the place.....how about marine paint for treads or sand and stain. You can buy carpet by the yard for stair runs in various patterns.....try Home Depot and Lowe's so you get some stability while going up and down the stairs....all these parts are pre fabricated at Lowe's or Home Depot or on line at reasonable prices.....good luck, but I think you need Newel posts for stability or the staircase will become loose and wobbly over time.

Thanks so much everyone. I agree that the horizontal railing would likely 'fight' with the grid pattern; however it seems like there are a couple of situations where these two things have been used together successfully. I appreciate the comments about dusting. I think that settles it for me!! I generally try to stick to things that will stay clean easily so I'm not sure why I didn't think of that with this grid wall idea. I guess I got caught up in only the look. I am interested to know why horizontal railings are dangerous for kids. Is it because they can climb onto and over them? I do not have children, but do have nieces and nephews. Is the horizontal railing just a current fad that will be dated soon? For those of you who asked what style the rest of our house will be, we are trying to sort that out by making some of these design decisions. We are going extremely bold with a dark green kitchen with dark grout white subway tile backsplash (looking to create a moody cafe vibe) and we will have a brick fireplace in the living room, but otherwise will likely go fairly neutral with the rest with quite a bit of artwork on the white (I think) walls. We are hoping to go for a European-type vibe overall. (which I know is quite a broad idea). We are not interior designers but are doing our best to create a home we will love!!