I agree w/ Gabi, abt the whole plant images. Maybe once you do the search,. then refine it to "images only". When you do the search, pls. do it by 'variegated Ficus elastica" I've actually seen this plant offered in supermarkets, wouldn't pay lots of money as it's not all that uncommon. Also when you DO get one, it will need a fair degree of light in order to keep the red/pink tones of it, or it'll revert to mostly green.

I have a very similar looking (possibly the same?) plant sold by the name of "Sylvie". Another name I have seen for a variegated ficus elastica is "Tineke". My experience is that it's a pretty easy plant to keep. Southern exposure will help it keep the pink coloration (though the leaves will burn if you suddenly increase the light exposure so you might want to slowly let it adjust to more sun). If you are the type who likes to put your houseplants outdoors during the summer, it will LOVE that. Mine grew like gangbusters from the warmth, sun, and humidity outside. I only stopped taking it outside because I was worried it might have pest problems if I did that.

Hi, Brianna. If you can still detect moisture in the soil when you water, you're not under-watering, which would make over-watering and/or a high level of dissolved solids (salts) in the soil solution the probable cause of the necrotic leaf margins. If you're under-watering - that's easy to correct, but try not to over-correct to the opposite extreme. Using a wood dowel rod sharpened in a pencil sharpener as a 'tell' is still a very effective way to determine whether or not your plantings need water. If the dowel comes out wet or stained dark from moisture, withhold water until it comes out barely moist or dry. The trick is to water before drought stress becomes a limitation. If your plant's pot is plastic or another light weight material, hefting it whenever you walk bye and comparing it to the 'just-watered' weight is a good way to tell, too. If you've allowed the pot to dry down to less than 15% water retention, areas of the soil might have become hydrophobic and difficult to rewet. If this occurs, water can run over the top of the soil and downward between the soil mass and pot walls w/o wetting the soil. If this occurs, you'll need to soak the pot in a tub for up to a half hour to ensure you've remoistened the entire soil mass. If you're concerned that your soil might tend to remain soggy for too long a period after watering - let me know. There are tricks to deal with and minimize the impact of excess water retention. The leaf loss is PROBABLY related to low light issues, but it could be nutritional or related to root health as well. Not enough info to determine what's going on with any certainty at this point. Al

If you're watering while you can still detect moisture in the soil, especially in the top 3-4", you're likely over-watering. Use a 'tell' to 'tell' you when it's time to water. Also, plasmolysis (commonly: fertilizer burn) might be the underlying cause. If a plant is growing under very bright conditions and at the upper limits of what it's programmed to tolerate, (which they usually are, at greenhouse/nursery ops), moving them to a position with a reduced light load can cause fertilizer burn, even though the concentration of salts in the soil solution might not have increases. That the greenhouse fertilized when it potted you plant up increases the suspicion that fertilizer burn might at least be a component of the issue. More about using a 'tell': Over-watering saps vitality and is one of the most common plant assassins, so learning to avoid it is worth the small effort. Plants make and store their own energy source – photosynthate - (sugar/glucose). Functioning roots need energy to drive their metabolic processes, and in order to get it, they use oxygen to burn (oxidize) their food. From this, we can see that terrestrial plants need air (oxygen) in the soil to drive root function. Many off-the-shelf soils hold too much water and not enough air to support good root health, which is a prerequisite to a healthy plant. Watering in small sips leads to a build-up of dissolved solids (salts) in the soil, which limits a plant's ability to absorb water – so watering in sips simply moves us to the other horn of a dilemma. It creates another problem that requires resolution. Better, would be to simply adopt a soil that drains well enough to allow watering to beyond the saturation point, so we're flushing the soil of accumulating dissolved solids whenever we water; this, w/o the plant being forced to pay a tax in the form of reduced vitality, due to prolong periods of soil saturation. Sometimes, though, that's not a course we can immediately steer, which makes controlling how often we water a very important factor. In many cases, we can judge whether or not a planting needs watering by hefting the pot. This is especially true if the pot is made from light material, like plastic, but doesn't work (as) well when the pot is made from heavier material, like clay, or when the size/weight of the pot precludes grabbing it with one hand to judge its weight and gauge the need for water. Fingers stuck an inch or two into the soil work ok for shallow pots, but not for deep pots. Deep pots might have 3 or more inches of soil that feels totally dry, while the lower several inches of the soil is 100% saturated. Obviously, the lack of oxygen in the root zone situation can wreak havoc with root health and cause the loss of a very notable measure of your plant's potential. Inexpensive watering meters don't even measure moisture levels, they measure electrical conductivity. Clean the tip and insert it into a cup of distilled water and witness the fact it reads 'DRY'. One of the most reliable methods of checking a planting's need for water is using a 'tell'. You can use a bamboo skewer in a pinch, but a wooden dowel rod of about 5/16” (75-85mm) would work better. They usually come 48” (120cm) long and can usually be cut in half and serve as a pair. Sharpen all 4 ends in a pencil sharpener and slightly blunt the tip so it's about the diameter of the head on a straight pin. Push the wooden tell deep into the soil. Don't worry, it won't harm the root system. If the plant is quite root-bound, you might need to try several places until you find one where you can push it all the way to the pot's bottom. Leave it a few seconds, then withdraw it and inspect the tip for moisture. For most plantings, withhold water until the tell comes out dry or nearly so. If you see signs of wilting, adjust the interval between waterings so drought stress isn't a recurring issue. Al