You are absolutely overwatering. Once the grass was in you should have started weening it off of daily watering and headed for monthly watering. But since this is the summer season coming up, it will be more like weekly watering until mid September. Start immediately by not watering at all for at least one day in a row. Then water a little more heavily (longer) and see if you can go to two days in a row without seeing any dry grass. I water my lawn once a week after it gets really hot or dry. It takes from 1-3 hours most years. Last year was an exceptionally hot and dry year so I watered for 7 hours splitting it to 4 hours and 3 hours on Tuesdays at morning and night according to our local watering restrictions. The idea is to get all the water you need on the lawn at one time if you can. Then you let the soil surface dry out completely. It will become hard but that is the idea. Dry soil cannot sprout weed seeds. And you probably do have fungus spots. If you want to handle that with a chemical approach, you'll have to identify the fungus first. If you want to handle it with an organic approach, you can spray it with milk immediately and then scatter ordinary corn meal at a rate of 20 pounds per 1,000 square feet over the entire yard. Put the milk in a hose end sprayer and set the dial for 3 ounces per gallon. Corn meal can be bought in 50-pound bags at your local feed store. You want ordinary corn meal and not corn gluten meal. The organic approach will probably work but you won't see results for 3 full weeks.

Most around here, including me, will try to encourage people to avoid "scotts" grass seed mixes. They are far from being good by any means. I was trying to find the % of the Sun & Shade you quoted and all I could find is this.. "Scotts Select Turf "Sun and Shade" (50% Boreal creeping red fescue, 35% Ragnar II perennial ryegrass, 15% Alene Kentucky bluegrass). Boreal is a fancy name for common creeping red fescue. Although it is adapted to shady growing conditions, Boral has none of the bred-in advantages of improved fine fescue varieties. Ragnar II, like all perennial ryegrasses, has no shade tolerance. Alene is a common type bluegrass that ranks at the bottom of the NTEP trials." A further explanation of my statement above. 6-8 hours of sun is the standard for "Full sun", against the misconception of full sun truly being sun all day long. You could really use any of the three cool season grasses and do not need the fine fescues. However, like I said before, any of the newer varieties are not going to visually blend well if you have an old wide blade fescue. ..I also didn't mention the different growing rates if you are to put a KBG or RYE on the fescue. A few days after cutting, it will look uneven. Ultimately the best thing to do would be to kill of the whole thing and start over (assuming you do have an old course tall fescue), but if your really against that, I'd say to overseed it with a turf type fescue. Go to a local garden center for better seed.

>> He reminded me about the migratory Junko birds that ate much of our bare April fescue seeding last year. You get those too? Around here, they're year-round residents (sometimes). The average Junko (as well as other sparrows) are incredibly lazy. If you scatter just a bit of peat moss atop the blank areas when you dormant seed, they won't be very effective at finding the seeds and tend to do the job of burying them for you. No protection is required when seeding into a partially sprouted stand of grass. You can certainly add KBG to the mix if you like, but keep in mind that it'll tend to take over the lawn over the very long term (many years). Personally, I liked the resulting Abbey/Kenblue bluegrass lawn more than I liked the tri-mix that spawned it. So much so that I renovated to nicer bluegrasses! Under normal circumstances, pre-emergents for incidental weeds go around the time the forsythia blossom (or, when soil temperatures rise over fifty degrees). That takes care of most oddball stuff. You won't be able to apply any pre-emergent at this time as your new grasses will still be sprouting and have to be three mowings old before you use any pre-M or herbicides. Crabgrass sprouts warmer, but may get started in any warm snap in April or May. For that, I'd apply pre-emergent (Dimension, Barricade, most of them work on CG) around June first and realize that it's not going to be perfect. Spot treat any sprouted CG with Weed B Gon Crabgrass Control in July or so when you see it--the lawn will be old enough by then and more.

It is a cool season grass so does go dormant in summer. And is quite drought tolerant once established due to a deep rooting habit. So can go quite awhile wthout irrigation. In my area, it is not uncommon for homeowners to allow their lawns to go dormant in summer. It is just too expensive to water extensively here during our very dry summer months to offset dormancy (summer water rates are much higher - double or more). So everything looks brown, dried and dead from mid July through September :-) But they know that their lawns will green up rapidly once the fall rains hit.