I chose the Hi Macs Sugarlof from Lowe’s. Very happy with my choice.

This is super helpful, thank you!

If it will be a rental in the future, I would not use solid surface product. It is too subject to scratching and heat damage and tenants are notorious for not taking careful care of the rental unit. Tenants will cut directly on it. Your goal is to use as many “tenant proof” products as possible.

Working at a major box store I come into contact frequently with landlords looking to replace doors (cabinet, interior, and exterior) that tenants have broken. Personally, I have never broken a door, but I have charged two different tenants for the cost of replacing two. One was expensive because it had to be made at a wood working shop as it was for a bedroom in an attic and was 5 sided.

So, I would not use solid surface in an apartment. In fact, it would be one of my last choices because it would be the most easily damaged. My order of preference #1 laminate (for it’s durability, stain resistance, cost and ease of installation, and ease of replacement if necessary). #2 and #3 would be a toss up between granite and quartz. My rental market does not require it, and it is more than twice the cost of laminate. Granite is less expensive, quartz will never need sealing. #4 solid surface which only edges out #5 butcher block, because butcher block is too subject to water damage.

Joseph, I respectfully disagree. The goal is to minimize turn over tasks and time. So I don’t want anything that will add to that list. Laminate in my apartments. Quartz would probably be my second choice, if I were inclined to upgrade.

Oh, and a stainless steel sink always! An acrylic/corian sink would be hands down my last choice for a rental. Way too subject to staining and needing special care. Tenants rarely take special care of anything. Stainless steel sinks are better than the energizer bunny. Only need replacing when the countertop needs replacing and don’t stain.

mainell:

Respectfully, you don't get to make staining claims against acrylic sinks that aren't true. Acrylic sinks don't stain.

Stainless steel sinks scratch just like acrylic; both are easily refinished. Stainless can dent, Acrylic can't, but can "bruise".

I promise you'll rue the day you put engineered stone in a low-mid level rental.

Acrylic sinks are much more likely to stain. And I can’t put my hot, heavy cast iron fry pan into it without melting it. Stainless I can. My tenants are not getting quartz countertops. Or granite. And never solid surface. Laminate is a durable, good looking countertop at a fraction of the cost of other materials. And it is not subject to cracking if the rock foundation moves. (Which it does.)

Joseph Corlett Your opinion is what was pushing me toward Corian. That, and the day after I posted this question, I found 38 linear feet of a gray speckled Corian on CL. BAM! I picked it up for $350. I will need 2 seams, one on the left just after the corner, and a second after the sink, on the perimeter run. This configuration allows me to use the already finished corner and the sink cutout. I have a 33" Elkay Crosstown sink to install, which I hope to undermount. This will go atop IKEA cabinets.

Joseph if we can find a local installer, we will; if not, where can I purchase the correct adhesive for connecting the seams? Do you have any advice? Want to visit coastal Maine for a long weekend? ;-) I've watched a few videos on YouTube and feel confident we can do it, but as we need to purchase an island countertop, I hope I can get an installer to do both. We are leaning toward Silver Birch for the island.

As for rental repairs, we screen very carefully, and as of yet, have had no problems with damages to our 2 other rentals. We are in a desirable coastal area with a shortage of housing, so we can be choosey. In my previous home, I had a dark laminate countertop and came to hate it -- it showed every scratch, and was far more delicate than the previous 1960s laminate which we replaced -- because it was worn through, not damaged!

"Joseph Corlett Your opinion is what was pushing me toward Corian. That, and the day after I posted this question, I found 38 linear feet of a gray sp..."

Sorry, but for some reason, I can't see the rest of this comment.

I found 38 linear feet of a gray speckled Corian on CL. BAM! I picked it up for $350. I will need 2 seams, one on the left just after the corner, and a second after the sink, on the perimeter run. This configuration allows me to use the already finished corner and the sink cutout. I have a 33" Elkay Crosstown sink to install, which I hope to undermount. This will go atop IKEA cabinets.

Joseph if we can find a local installer, we will; if not, where can I purchase the correct adhesive for connecting the seams? Do you have any advice? Want to visit coastal Maine for a long weekend? ;-) I've watched a few videos on YouTube and feel confident we can do it, but as we need to purchase an island countertop, I hope I can get an installer to do both. We are leaning toward Silver Birch for the island.

As for rental repairs, we screen very carefully, and as of yet, have had no problems with damages to our 2 other rentals. We are in a desirable coastal area with a shortage of housing, so we can be choosey. In my previous home, I had a dark laminate countertop and came to hate it -- it showed every scratch, and was far more delicate than the previous 1960s laminate which we replaced -- because it was worn through, not damaged!

Does the above work?

Yes, I see the post now. Thanks.

You can do solid surface seams yourself in a pinch. Just remember that the nicer they fit dry, the nicer they will look seamed. I'd dress 'em with a router and a straight edge. Look up your solid surface's color match at www.integra-adhesives.com. You can avoid buying the gun if you push equal amounts of adhesive and catalyst into a Baggie for mixing. Pull, don't cut, the tip of the bag off and it makes a nice dispensing nipple. After you've fitted, glue a solid surface cleat at least 2" wide to one side of the seam, let it set up, then hot melt blocking to the top and clamp the seam (and cleat) together (old school). Do not remove excess adhesive, let it squeeze out because it shrinks as it cures. Denatured alcohol will dissolve the hot melt bond holding the blocking. Sand off the squeeze out after it sets up.

Thank you, Joseph ,

I really appreciate the knowledge you generously share with the members of this forum.