Brand New House Maintenance Tips?
Liz Lemon
5 years ago
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5 years agograywings123
5 years agoRelated Discussions
Pond maintenance tips/advice wanted
Comments (32)Plants You have a lot. I'm not on site so hard to tell, but from the pics I'd probably remove all the plants from the pond and vacuum or scoop the bottom with a swimming pool leaf rake. When removing the plants note how deep they are. Moving them to deeper water might be an issue. For everything other than lilies moving plants to more shallow water, or even above the water is almost always better for the plants, so that would be OK if you like. Then I could assess the plants and pond better. Pots, baskets, directly plants? Can pots be reused? I can now see the pond without plants. How's it look to me? Were some plants hiding something that I want to continue to hide? I come up with a plan. Buy replacement pots? Maybe reduce the number of species returned to the pond. If the plants are planted directly in soil, not pots, you really have to empty the pond and deal with the plants. Fish have to be moved. That's a whole deal I won't get into now. Most (all) the plants will have to be divided. Depends on when last done. I just made a post on this. Most of dealing with plants just has to be learned with experience. But here's some things you may not know... When removed from the pond the plants can stay out of water for a really long time. Weeks, even months. The leaves may die back but the roots (rhizomes) last a long time out of water. Keeping them in water can actually cause rot. You can also plant them in regular garden pots with dirt, same as a regular garden plant, and just keep them well watered and they grow great. This is true for every plant except lilies, floaters and plants that grow completely underwater. Some times if you look up a plant on the web or printed on the label when buying a plant it will say 6" of water, or 12" of water, or whatever. Many people think that means the plant must be in that much water. This is actually the maximum depth the plant can take. Most of these do better the less water. Even planted in the yard many of these plants will do well. Here in Phoenix many kinds of "pond plants" are used in yards. This is because "pond plant" isn't really a very good term... "vernal pool plant" would be better. They've adapted to living in standing water and also dry periods when there's no water which is what a vernal pool is. So knowing this can make your life easier, more options. Plants inside the pond = more work. So reducing them will be less work in the future. You can put some of these into pots around the edge of the pond, or in the ground, or switch to other kinds of plants around the edge. Gives you the same lush look with way less work and the pond appears much larger. Here are some pics of a pond I built in San Jose CA to demonstrate. No plant is inside the pond. And here the pot on the left is a "pond plant" called Horsetail Rush. It's a foam pot with no drainage hole, soil from the yard. This plant, like most "pond plants" can be very invasive, but no problem in a pot. And no drainage holes means no straining from leaking water (the pot on the right need drainage and therefore a catch pan under it). Go on vacation for a week or two the pot is fine with no watering. When it's time to divide it's no big deal....See MoreHelp. Need Slate Floor Maintenance Tips
Comments (2)your slate floor although beautiful, is very porus. your first step is to seal the floor with a commercial sealer. you will need to strip and re-seal a couple of times a year. since the slate is so porus do not use alkaline liquids, they will stain the floor. you can help yourself out immensely by placing a rug down over the area that is used the most. like by the sink. any spills can leave marks on the stone. so be very careful. you can also set some house rules like no shoes on the slate floor. this will keep the traking down. if you are worried about hair on the floor, then yes use a swifter to get them up, but a vacuum would be ideal.the swifter will not clean the floor. you will have to get down on the floor and wash it with some very mild detergent. there are products out there with low ph levels that will work just fine. best of luck...See MoreNew House..Existing Deck..Should I do fall maintenance?
Comments (2)Wood looks good but be careful with Sikkens. It is made from Linseed oil which has a tendency to allow mold and mildew to form because of the sugars. So I try to avoid it. It's also a bear to strip off in preparation for a new stain. These are the considerations that many homeowners don't think about when choosing their stain. I prefer petroleum-based products so I get a deep-diving penetrant rather than a surface coating and they are easy to clean and prep for maintenance. If you stay with the Sikkens....clean for your fall maintenance and reapply to keep your board protected. I am a firm believer in maintaining your wood!...See MoreNew Home Woodwork Maintenance
Comments (3)I just bought a house that was built in 1965. The builder installed matching woodowork all through the house. He used varnish. The woodwork had been dinged, paint splashed, and broken in a couple places. I sanded out the dings, cleaned the paint splashed pieces, and revarnished those pieces. I did have to restain the heavily sanded pieces. Then I simply replaces the broken pieces with good pieces from the closets and installed new in the closets. The new does not match the old well enough to use together, but in the closets you cannot see the difference. The doors were simply washed as the varnish was just fine on them---45 year old varnish is still good....See MoreLiz Lemon
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