If it was possible, I doubt it would be very accurate. I know when they test at universities, or other facilities, they try to get a large sample. This means multiple pods from multiple plants. I would assume the average grower wouldn't have enough pods in order to get a large enough sample size. Tim

I did not get to test my range but these are some things that I see might be a problem in hindsight. Before you go- I would first prioritize your needs. For me the oven is important. Others want high heat for the burners or have other priorities. Take a hard look at your cookware if you haven't already. Understand the properties of the metal it is made of. Cookware is the interface of the food to heat and will extend the capabilities of any burner. Cookware with poor heat conduction will limit the function of any range. Most burners in prostyle ranges are wider so consider the shape of the cookware as well. It is also helpful to understand in buying bakeware. If you are testing high heat, you really can't use nonstick except maybe the newer ceramics that withstand high heat. Understanding Stovetop Cookware Materials-of-Cookware For the oven, maybe take some cookie batter and put several pans in at once. Cookie sheets should be shiny and aluminum. Cookies can burn or cook unevenly in the best oven if you use dark or steel cookie sheets. If baking is your thing you might want to see how it bakes other things. Check how the convection works. If you haven't had it before, it is different brand to brand and a learning curve. There is a difference between just a fan and third element convection. Turn the oven on and check the door temp after one hour. Observe how much heat is put into the kitchen or on you if you are standing in front of it cooking. Check out the lighting in the oven. Does it glare and can you see what is cooking. If you have rolling racks, take them in and out. I change my racks around a lot so leave a rolling rack in the bottom but don't like them for the upper rack(s). Check out the broiler. Some infrared broilers are very narrow. I use my broiler for half sheets and it is not what I would choose. If you are grilling a couple of steaks or small amount of fish mostly it might be great. For the burners, check how quickly the pan recovers when you add food*. Check how the pans fit the burners, especially a consideration if you use cast iron or steel or have small pans that allow the flame on high to wrap around the pan. This can be on open or sealed burners. Bring something starchy like a can of spaghettios and see if the burner will hold them on low without scorching. This can also be affected by the type of pan. A small LeCreuset being cast iron will hold the heat and be hotter than an aluminum or copper pan. Check the sensitivity of the knob in controlling the heat. Look at the grates and lift them. Check how the range is cleaned. This is very subjective. Write a list ahead of time starting with looking over the range while it is cold and starting with things like putting your starchy item on to hold and preheating your oven. If you have a written list you won't forget anything and you can keep notes. also bring a camera.

First, GMO's (or GEO's if you prefer) have NOTHING to do with soil amendments or fertilizers so let's just leave them out of the discussion. They are not pertinent and as they are so misunderstood by the general public (see above), any discussion here will only confuse the soil testing issue further. And let's also be careful not to get hung up on terminology. It is pretty unusual to encounter a "dead" soil - depleted, yes....dead, no. A dead soil is one where nothing grows. Nothing!! Heavily cropped agricultural soils are often depleted - lacking an appropriately populous and diverse soil biology, nutrient deficient and lacking in OM - but are rarely dead. And it is not just the application of synthetic/manufactured fertilizers that are to blame but also the frequent tilling and the lack of replenishment of organic matter. And allowing the soils to remain fallow periodically, so that rainfall leaches any lingering nutrients. btw, fertilizer companies are not in the business of doing soil tests. ANY reputable soil testing lab will make recommendations for nutrient adjustments based on your soil test - it is up to the gardener how and with what one addresses those adjustments: smaller quantities of fast acting, easy to access and relatively inexpensive synthetic ferts and amendments or significantly larger quantities of more expensive, slower acting organic inputs. FWIW, it is quite possible to maintain a healthy soil environment while using synthetic ferts. Just do not apply unless necessary and do not apply more than is necessary. And replenish OM by routine mulching at the very least. And the exact same advice is given when using organic ferts - apply only when necessary and do not apply more than is necessary. Over-application of even organically sourced fertilizers can create imbalances and wreak havoc with the soil biology as well. After more than 30 years of teaching soils classes and advising and consulting on home gardening issues, I can state with some assurance that annual or routine soil tests are seldom called for for a home gardening situation (cropping on a large scale or farming is a very different situation). Once a baseline test has been done and any deficiencies addressed, moderate application of a balanced fertilizer, either synthetic or organic - when deemed necessary - will not create any substantial alterations in the soil chemistry or throw things out of balance. And if you routinely apply OM in the form of a properly 'finished', diverse ingredient compost (as in a mulch or topdressing), then the instances of needing or requiring a supplemental fertilizer application are virtually non-existent. In 25 years of gardening the same plot of land, I can think of only once or twice I used a recognized "fertilizer" (organic or not). But I did mulch routinely with compost, which supplied or resupplied any necessary nutrients that were deficient or lacking, not to mention stimulating an active soil biology. My garden was lush and profuse, without any serious insect or disease problems and hosted a vibrant soil biology. New gardeners have a tendency to overlook soil qualities altogether or over-think them. The more you known about soils and understand how plants access and process nutrients the less one needs to focus on soil tests and fertilizing. It becomes more of an experiential thing and far less a factor of outside (soil test) input.

In addition to vocal fry, there is also High Rising Terminal (HRT), or uptalk, which is equally annoying. Sing-song accents can also be bad, but it depends on the language. Schweitzer-Deutsch typically has a sing-song accent and can identify a speaker as being Swiss. In English, interrogative sentences generally do end with a vocal rise, but declarative sentences do not. In Italian, interrogative sentence do not end with a vocal rise (intonation does not change), but declarative sentences end with a lowered intonation.