Go to Johnnys Seeds web site and clic on the type of vegatable you want to grow then click on the growing information highlight the information copy and past it into a word processing program then move on to the next one and repete the process and soon you will have growing information on all of the vegatables you can grow. here's the one from lettuce. Remember to go alphabeticaly from a to z. www.johnnyseeds.com Growing Information: CULTURE: Lettuce is hardy and can be planted as early as the soil can be worked. It is a cool weather crop and makes its best growth at temperatures of 60-65°F (16-18°C). Careful variety selection is important for hot weather crops. Sow every 3 weeks for a continuous supply of fresh lettuce. THERMAL DORMANCY: Lettuce can be dormant at high temperatures. For best germination results sow at soil temperatures of 68°F (20°C) or lower. The priming process in pelleted lettuce seeds broadens the temperature range in which the seeds will germinate, overcoming some of a lot's thermal dormancy. TRANSPLANTING: Sow in flats, 4 seeds/in., or in 3/4' plug trays, barely covering seeds with fine vermiculite, 3-4 weeks before transplanting outdoors. Shade the flats on sunny, warm days if necessary to keep the soil surface cool, below 75°F (24°C), until germination. If sowing into flats, transplant 1-2' apart into flats, pots, or cell-type containers about 2 weeks later. Harden seedlings by reducing water and temperature for 2-3 days before planting outdoors. Properly hardened transplants can survive temperatures as low as 20°F (-6°C). Transplant iceberg lettuce 12' apart in rows 18' apart, other types 8-12' x 12-18' apart. DIRECT SEEDING: Seeds germinate even at low, 40°F (4°C), soil temperature, but poorly above 75-85°F (24-29°C) depending on the variety and seed lot. Cover seed lightly, about 1/8', and firm soil gently. Dry soil must be watered to ensure coolness and moisture, and for even germination. Thin young seedlings to one plant per spot. For salad mix: sow in a 2-4' wide band, about 60 seeds/ft. MT0 SEEDS: A variety name followed by MT0-10 indicates that the seeds offered for sale in sizes larger than a packet have been tested for the presence of lettuce mosaic virus and that no LMV was found in a sample of 10,000 seeds or less. MT0-30 indicates that no LMV was found in a sample of 30,000 seeds tested. NOTE: A disease-free test result does not guarantee a seedlot to be disease-free, only that in the sample tested, the pathogen targeted was not found. DAYS TO MATURITY: For full-size heads from direct seeding and growth in mild temperatures; subtract 10-14 days if transplanting. Note: maturity can be 3 or more weeks later in cool weather, and up to 1 week earlier in hot weather. AVG. DIRECT SEEDING RATE: For full-size heads (precision seeded): 5,300'/oz., 220'/1,000 seeds, 5.5 oz./acre at 3 seeds every 8' in rows 18' apart. For salad mix: 400'/oz., 16'/1,000 seeds, 6,400'/lb. At 60 seeds/ft. TRANSPLANTS: Avg. 20,000 plants/oz. SEED SPECS: SEEDS/OZ.: 20,000-30,000 (avg. 24,000). MINI: 0.5 gm. unless otherwise noted (avg. 400 seeds, sows about 17' at 24 seeds/ft., or makes 250 transplants). PACKET: 1 gm. unless otherwise noted (avg. 800 seeds, sows 34' or makes about 480 plants).

I haven't pruned my climbing roses yet because I can't bear to think that they really are dead down to the ground. I keep looking for some sign of growth higher up, but there's nothing. Pretty soon, I'll have to, as they say, "put on my big girl panties" and go out there and start chopping. Denial is a powerful thing. I also have a beautiful, 6' tall Ispahan rose that seems to be coming back about 12" high. It's a once-bloomer that I'm pretty sure won't bloom this year at all. I find it painful to contemplate how many years it may take before these roses are back to their former glory. I'm hoping that with good root systems they'll take less time regaining their height than they took to make it in the first place.

Thanks a lot, everybody! I read lots of good things about Shores of Time here, plus the pictures I saw here were wow! That's the first one I got this spring and my most expensive ;) I thought I'd add a few I liked from the last couple of days here Feathered Storm - one of my 3 doubles Chicago Apache and Lime Frost FFO. When I planted I wanted them to flower together and they did! Though I don't think middle of July is 'very late' as LF description says And one of my most prized possessions, just got her 2 days ago. Might not be fancy but I love it because it's my namesake - Tatiana

I just love iris. I will got through withdrawal when the bloom stops. That is why, imho, it is important to have numerous ones that are rebloomers in my (your) area....for those late season surprise blooms. Some of the rebloomers might not be the showiest ones, but they sure are nice during the iris 'off' season. Low ho Silver is blooming now, and it usually blooms steady from sometime in Aug until sometime in Nov. and possibly at times in between. I'm starting to concentrate more on those that will reliably rebloom in my area. Sue