**What are the indoor and outdoor design temperatures used in the calculation?** Winter: outside 42 F/inside 70 F Summer: outside 97 F/inside 75 F **What are the sensible, latent, and total cooling BTU numbers?** I'm trying to attach a picture on the calculation that was done, but this is what I see Sensible Cooling Equipment Load Sizing: structure 48078 BTU, ducts 11989 BTU, equipment sensible load 61268 BTU Latent Cooling Equipment Load Sizing: Structure 494 BTU, ducts 314 BTU, equipment latent load 808BTU, equipment total load 62076 BTU Cooling Equipment Summary: sensible cooling 0 BTU, latent cooling, 0 BTU, total cooling, 0 BTU (The calculations actually WERE done by the Carrier contractor, but I'm feeling a little concerned now about them. I noticed the footnotes say the front door faces N, when it is NE. Not sure if that's a negligible difference or indicative of sloppy work.) **A temperature drop of 10-15 degrees on the bedroom supply is significant. Does the duct work travel through unconditioned space?** Yes **How much insulation is in the attic? You want at least R30. Increasing the attic insulation is going to help the temperature differential.** There is no attic space. The roof is basically right above the upstairs ceiling with maybe a foot of space between the two. There is no crawl space or access to this area unless you open up the ceiling drywall. This is where the upstairs ductwork is located. It is probably the original 1976 ductwork, 5" diameter. A camera inserted in one of the grills for a very rudimentary visual inspection showed that this main upstairs line is not in the best shape. When we settle on a contractor we were planning to try to get a more thorough inspection and expect that this ductwork should probably be replaced. I'm not really sure what our insulation options are, but the Carrier contractor (who is an approved Energy Upgrade CA contractor) seemed to be hinting that our options are expensive and limited.

Well as I said before this communication standard is new. There are several competing avenues for home automation... I think this is the (bigger pie in the sky) motivation behind it. Because other companies could be able to design other home automation features that would then tie into the hub. The biggest thing above HVAC control is that the protocol is network friendly, the other not so obvious benefit is a direct path to the internet via Redlink. It's a more secure way of handling traffic. WiFi has it's uses, but there are serious known flaws (security for one) The other is bandwidth hogging. There are so many products already in this space and they all fight for WiFi bandwidth in the home. A home full of users using multiple WiFi devices probably wouldn't bring much joy. As far as the competing avenue, I'm sure Honeywell wants to retain market share as I see them fighting with Amazon and Google over home automation control. (Google currently owns the Nest thermostat, tied into their home assistant with anything from lighting control, to sprinkler control and home security for that matter... so I'm sure Honeywell is well aware... and Google was at one of these protocol standard meetings.... it's all about control. [Google is the elephant in the proverbial HVAC closet.] I am not a fan of the Nest, it tries to be all things to all people and all HVAC configurations and the bigger problem with the Nest is that it is the dumb down approach to HVAC control. It doesn't 'know' anything outside of the temperature in the room. On top of this, the Nest is practically impossible to trouble shoot. (If you disconnect a lead it will just give you disconnection errors... how's that for having fun?) I don't even waste my time trying to trouble shoot Nest problems. I automatically assume the problem is the Nest if there is no other obvious reason for the trouble. The HVAC 'communication' control benefit this gives Honeywell a big advantage, in my opinion. (They are behind the protocol.) We'll see how it plays out, it's only been roughly 4 years. But legacy equipment will never work with this new protocol... You will have to buy equipment that 'EMPLOYS' the standard. If other manufacturer's come to their senses and realize the threat Google imposes and all jump onto the new protocol, it could be lights out for Google. Which in turn would lead to literally thousands, maybe hundreds of thousands of Nest thermostats just ripe for the picking and conversion. Honeywell isn't stupid, they've been at this game longer than Google has been around.... and Google is known for getting into things that are far and above over their heads. We'll see... There are a plethora of ways forward that this protocol could lead to additional home automation avenues. Honeywell is a gadget producer so we can at this point really only speculate what the end game might entail. Oh, you're such a 'control freak' Honeywell.... something Google is not. For the poor homeowner scraping by... no sprinkler system, no home automation, no security, etc. This doesn't mean much. But I as a HVAC specialist, have to know it.

Zone systems (zone boards specifically) are designed electrically to have proper sized transformer. Again with the VA rating? Yes, this isn't voodoo magic. If the electrical loads (24v) are not properly sized to the transformer you will have erratic system behavior. For that reason, I would NEVER choose the Nest for those kinds of applications. The odds are low that it will work and / or for very long. Heavy system loads. These loads change thru out the season. If you want something to work, shouldn't it just work any time rather than sometimes? It's one thing to get a system to work in 80 degree weather, it's quite another to keep it working under a 95-100 degree heat wave. This comment is primarily directed at a HVAC zone system. (in case others without a zone system read this thread) I haven't had any issues with Ecobee, but I don't see this kind of T-stat all that often because Ecobee is primarily designed for use in commercial type applications. I am a Texas licensed HVAC contractor and service the Katy, Texas area. TACLB28416E

I have ring at home and blink at the cabin. I have ring color hd cameras, solar panel and the indoor door bell, costs $60/yr. I had a 720 b&w ring, I recommend the color hd vs the b&w, the battery failed on the b&w ring. The blink has an hd camera and is included with Amazon Prime. Prime costs $130/yr. My brother had b&w simplisafe, my images are clearer than his. I do not think he has a subscription, he has a camera under his covered porch Ring has a television ad, shows instant communication, my ring takes a few seconds, speed my depend on WiFi speed. I would buy based on: color hd camera (image quality) storage (image storage cost) price of system.