I paid an up charge to have the 2.25" rails/stiles for the shaker door style I picked. The shaker door style I have has solid wood rails/stiles with plywood middle panel, it comes standard with 2.75" rails/stiles, the all solid wood version comes standard with thinner rails/stiles. It was still cheaper for me to pay the up charge for the plywood middle panel as that's the only different between two versions. The KD did told me ahead of time that the top drawers will have even thinner rails since I picked out the 5 pcs construction and I was ok with that. For the other drawer that can accommodate 2.25" rails have 2.25 rails. Only the top drawer has a reduced rails. I have attached a picture of my coffee counter that shows two doors and a top drawer with thinner rails. I haven't take any pictures after the kitchen is completed as now I am trying to get my cooktop repaired and have set up a temporary portable unit there so it's not good for pictures taking. Hope this helps!

I obsessed about this for awhile, even though I don't have any slab drawer fronts. I mounted almost all the drawer handles (bar pulls) centered both horizontally and vertically on the drawer front, in the recessed panel. But door pulls use the same bar pulls running vertically and attached to the stile (I think that is the right term). So they aren't in the same plane as the drawer pulls. It conceptually bothers me that they are different, but it doesn't bother me visually. In any case I couldn't find anything I liked better. I hope to shoot some final pictures tonite and post them. The last things were done today.

I spent a lot of time comparing and contrasting Ultracraft with Innermost during my frameless cabinet review. I think Fergusons was surprised I returned so frequently to check their Ultracraft display. Opening and shutting drawers, checking their gliding, going over interior finish, feeling the finish. Ultracraft would have had my contract except for three things: -I noticed the pull split the wood of a front drawer. I asked about it, and they said it was just a display. Things happen, and perhaps it was an accident, but it made me wonder if when mine would be installed, they would split the drawer like that. -They had three whites, none of which were just right for me. The finish was more matte like than satin like. -Their price came in higher and was non-negotiable. I chose Innermost (Elkay Cabinetry) painted frameless and am very satisfied. All cabinets came in without any imperfections which i found amazing for painted (they are also conversion varnish, btw). All interior birch was similar and nicely done, without knots and edging well matched. All painted interiors were done nicely, but regrettably, on the thee 42" tall glass cabinets with mullions, the middle hinges on the box sits right over the glass door mullion, so your shelf must go either above or below the hinge. This makes the shelves not all aligned with the mullions as most competitive cabinet manufacturers have, and aesthetically the way it is suppose to be. I had asked about this prior to order, and am displeased. I'm working with Elkay on a remedy: my suggestion is four $3 Blum hinges on each door side, thus permitting the glass door mullions and inside box shelves to line up with each other. I have two original built in mullion glass cabinets in my dining room and was trying to integrate the look in the kitchen with the connected dining room. It's Elkay's satin paint finish I just marvel at: just a bit of sheen, no plastic offensive look or feel, and it's very durable and easy to keep clean. I love it! I think either Ultracraft or Innermost are very nice choices. I just had a few important particulars that swayed me towards Innermost, one being their paint finish. You do have more space with frameless. This post was edited by SparklingWater on Fri, May 2, 14 at 17:31

OOps, now I'm the one who's behind! Again, thanks for all the helpful comments. It was a last-minute concern so the quick advice has been very helpful. I just finished running the stiles through the router and I'm doing mortise/tenon joints. I hadn't previously heard the tip about glue on butt ends being useless. I had wondered about taping areas I wanted to be clean so the specifics on that are also great. A couple of replies about the wood now. Yes, I guess this project would have been easier had I gone with a standard wood but I bought it from a guy who overbought. It does have a spicey aroma but I haven't seen the "Cabbage Bark" name associated with this stuff. It's not really teak but a common name is Brazillian Teak. It has "Kumaru" stamped on the back of it. I guess the only thing I'm still curious about is gluing only a left side of the panel. Seems like that would still allow the panel to expand in three directions since only one of four sides would be held stationary. Certainly it could be a waste of time and effort but the concept seems ok with what I THINK I understand about wood at this point. I'm really not trying to be difficult, just trying to reconcile new things I'm learning with other things I thought I had learned :>)