Cabinet Doors, Rails Long, vs. Stiles Long
johnorange
9 years ago
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johnorange
9 years agojakuvall
9 years agoRelated Discussions
LONG sliding patio door - 2 panel or 3 panel?
Comments (15)What did you end up doing? If you are still deciding, I would advise against a 4 panel door for your 10 foot space. As another poster said, that will result in a lot of posts within a small area. The result will be less glass and a more crowded look. Once you factor in all the posts required for a 4 panel door, and the large section in the middle where the two closing panels meet, you will loose a lot of light and your opening will not actually be that much larger than a 3 panel door. I think 3 panels would work very well and, after allowing for the posts, will leave you with an opening that is around 3 foot wide. A 36" opening is very respectable - also, you will then only have one moving panel which equals less moving parts (see: things that may/will break some day) and only one screen door. A 4 panel door will generally be less weather resistant: two moving panels must join in the middle and try to create a seal with one another, which weakens the door's structure. this counts when a storm kicks up and you get a lot of wind driven rain. with a 3 panel door, each end of the moving panel will always close/seal against a FIXED panel. This is more stable and reliable. i'm not making this up - check the DP rating of a 3 panel door Vs. a 4 panel door for the same manufacturer. The 4 panel doors always have a lower rating. Another negative score against the 4 panel door is that you are forced to have the opening in the center of your room - which makes it difficult to furnish, as you must allow a passage way through the center of a room. Not an efficient use of space in many situations. 3 panels allow the flexibility to have the opening on the left, center, or right side. I'm not an authority on this... just my opinion :-) Good luck! Please let us know what you decided and if you are pleased with the result....See MoreStill searching for right cabinets.......long.....
Comments (10)Once again, this group let's me know that I am not alone in my angst and you offer me sage advice. Rutt - who put in my mother's cherry, raised panel, beaded inset cabinets 35 years ago. They function as well and look as good as the day they were installed. That is the quality that I am looking for and am willing to stretch (wintin limits of course) financially to try and get. I contacted them and have had no response -- disappointing. Plain and Fancy is one of the lines that we are considering and one we got a quote from - the highest so far. Unfortunately, I really do not like or trust the KD who reps them here or the store she works out of. Since my initial contact with them, I have not felt comfortable, but wanted to get some figures on P&F. Conestoga doors -- I believe that is the company that makes the doors for Custom Wood Products that we looked at. Just not sure about one making doors and another making boxes -- even though they are being painted I have concerns about matching wood, etc. I have looked at David T. Smith and it is probably a bit tooooo authentic for my DH - he is trying hard to go down this road with me, but I have to be careful how far I ask him to stretch. I will explore Sterling and Heritage. Thanks again everyone -- it just helps to get it out of my head and into someone else's every once and a while! I know it will eventually turn out alright, I just think I am surprised at how much more difficult this is than I expected. But I guess that happens to most all of us in this process....See MoreHow long to assemble 21 Ikea cabinets?
Comments (15)I'm also in the midst of Ikea cabinet assembly, and here's what I'd suggest. (I'm assuming that you've checked your order and know that you have everything, or have it on the way from Ikea. In my case, I had to wait for replacements for a few damaged or missing items, and it takes time for them to process your "case" for re-delivery.) First, I would assemble a tool kit and a box to keep all tools together. That will save you time and frustration. YMMV, but the tools I've found most useful are a small, re-chargeable power screwdriver, a sharp knife for opening boxes and hardware packets, a rubber mallet for tightening sides and bottoms of the cabinets before locking the cams and nailing on the backs, a hammer comfy in your hand, an awl for those places where you have to drive a screw through the melamine surface and there's no predrilled hole. An example is the 30" and wider drawers, where the drawer rails are attached with four screws per side. The narrower drawers are solid with two screws per rail. Oh, speaking of the backs, every time you go to install one, say out loud to yourself "white side down", and it will keep you from putting it on so that the unfinished side is accidently facing in to the inside. No fun to take a back off after it's nailed down... You got a great suggestion from Detroit burb above to install the rails while the cab walls are still flat on the table or floor. It's much easier than trying to climb inside later! Just start with one of your small wall cabs, look at all the directions, and follow them exactly. For my first few cabs, I found it helpful to actually lay out the pieces exactly in the orientation shown in the diagrams. Where you see the graphic of a small hand outline pointing to something in an illustration, take particular heed, as those are critical points for possible error. You don't have to force anything, so if it isn't going together with ease, stop and recheck all your previous steps. It is SO easy, you will be able to do it without even referencing the instructions after doing just the first few cabinets. I'd never done them before, and now I'm confident cutting them down to specific sizes I want....See MoreHow thin can I go with rails and stiles for shaker doors in kitchen?
Comments (95)TaylorCraft Cabinet Door Company builds 3/4", 1" and 1.25" frame width 4S doors that are unique in their construction method and accept european hinges even at these narrow widths. The door construction is patent pending. 4S doors are offered in stain grade natural wood and paint grade material for those looking for a skinny shaker or slim shaker cabinet door look. 4S doors are true 3/4" thickness so they work with standard hinges designed for 3/4" thick doors. 4S doors have the following features: No lip moulds, no miter joint construction 90 degree joints which create a more stable, durable frame True 3/4″ door thickness Seamless, smooth, jointless back Real wood – in the white Works with standard hardware and hinges for 3/4″ thickness doors No nails, nail holes or fasteners that create hinge placement concerns...See Morejohnorange
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