We were on the lookout for them because two of our horses had been bit on the nose, we nearly lost the mini, but she was tough. UGH. I hope the eggs are lizards. (and I would not drive the truck for about a month. kept thinking what I might see in the mirror) The farm we bought had been abandoned for 3 or 4 years, so everything had moved in. I still like the harmless varieties. We have a black racer here that is REALLY cool

I've avoided mowing the grass along this area for 2 weeks now, to avoid scaring off the robins. Also, not spraying neem on this rose(toxic or not) for the same reason, now that I know the nest is there. It looks pretty incredible now that the rose is blooming (couldn't get the blossoms and bird in the same photo).

The scenario you described is not consistent with "Dead battery". What has most likely occurred is the headlight switch itself has shorted internally, OR.....there is a shorted out wire somewhere between the headlight switch and the headlights. When you first turned on the headlight, and the light went out immediately suggests the headlight switch is defective. But the likely reason the battery now seems to be "dead" is because the fuse for the machine's electrical system "blew" when you pushed the headlight switch harder (which likely restored the shorting condition). The first thing for you to do is to find the fuse and check it to see if it has failed. If it has failed, replace it with a new fuse of the identical size (amp rating). You may want to buy several of these fuses as locating and repairing electrical shorts sometimes consumes a few fuses in the process. With a new fuse in place, turn on the key switch and try starting the engine. If engine starts and runs, or does not start and run, post your results and we will then proceed with tests. If you do not already own a 12 volt test light and/or a "volt/ohm multi-meter", you should buy them (you can get cheap ones for your needs). If it turns out to be more complex than a blown fuse and a defective headlight switch, it will require a volt meter or a 12 volt test light to go beyond what is found in the basic fuse failure scenario.

Chances are that the Worm Snakes are abundant beneath the surface so while the ones you move may well take a while to get back others are likely to appear. Snakes can travel long distances so in theory they could come back eventually but whether they would bother or not is another story. I'd say if you're committed to the strategy you could try 100 yards or so and see what happens. But they're likely not doing any harm so it may not be worth the very minor effort of moving them.