All updates concerning this engine swap will end up here ... not in the big ole nut thread. It looks like Bill K was right. Just talked to a B&S tech. The 10 amp had bigger mags on the flywheel despite the one part number. So I'm not quite pushing enough power even with the stator swap. It does however push enough to work the PTO clutch maybe with a little battery help I really don't know yet for sure but it has done a fine job mowing half the acre. Only reason I know for sure its not pushing enough is when I engage the PTO the battery charge light comes on too. According to the B&S tech it should work fine for me if I put a charger on it after using it. Which IMHO is a small price to pay for not having to go out and buy a new throwaway mower. As for my measurements on the electrics they came up wonky as all get out ... I'm beginning to wonder about the accuracy of my multimeter. 2amps at .5 volts? Ill give it another test later and hopefully get a better reading. Gonna get some alligator clips for the multimeter so I know that I am making contact well. The little pokie probes are unreliable in my book unless I can actually stick them in something. For now I must go and get another bolt to hold the steering linkage that I apparently didn't bolt down well enough after dropping the engine in.

Walt, thank you so much for taking the time to think this through and write about it in detail. I drove to Springfield today in hopes of talking to a mechanic at a huge power equiment business there that is well known for parts and service...unfortunately it has closed and there is no "we've moved to..." sign. This economy is killing everyone. Oh well...sleuthing with you all, I guess! :) Anyhow, to answer some of your comments, I have run two tanks with SeaFoam but seen no improvement since using it. I have a stupid qustion regarding the ground for the battery...I only see the two main battery cables (pos. and neg.) and then they lead underneath the battery compartment/seat area to places unknown and impossible to see or get to without removing the entire metal cover for the mower. I've had experience dealing with battery problems on my pick up truck and I know there was a separate ground wire that was attached with the negative cable for my truck but I don't see a separate ground for this machine. Is it bundled with the negative cable? When I removed the battery from it's compartment, I still can't see where the cables lead (although I saw a white plastic flywheel of some sort under the battery area, what the heck is that?? Just curious!) Is there any way to get to any of this stuff without removing the mowers metal cover? I was going to remove the starter and take it to a mechanic to test it but couldn't figure out how to get it off the motor. I asked a neighbor who rolled his eyes and said "It's only 3 bolts!" but when he looked at it, he couldn't figure out how to get it off there either (made me feel better...the little eye-roller!) Regarding your comment: IF you have a GOOD set of jumper cables, jump directly from the batter to the starter as you said you did with the charger and see what happens. The contacts of the starter solenoid that you hear clicking may be burned until they do not conduct enough current anymore. By passing as above may help tell if this is a problem but would need more checking. I have a good set of automobile jumper cables..I can definitely try this and see what happens. I'll continue to post if I have any luck with this. I think it might be time to junk it and get something new but I really, really hate doing that. I'd rather fix it if it's possible and cost-effective. It's a shame that this engine has a history of this problem yet Briggs&Stratton never dealt with or addressed it. Oh one last thing, would a bigger/stronger battery help in any way or not since you said the starter is maxed out when conditions are ideal? Thanks again!

Knuttle, The transmission is supposed to be "sealed," as in you don't ever need to change the oil. Therefore there is no easy way to drain and refill the unit. Honestly, this was the only part about the LT155 that bothered me. EVERYTHING that uses oil as a lubricant, wears and produces heat SHOULD be changed, right? I found the post below where a Gardenweb forum member sucessfully changed the oil in a similar Tuff Torq unit. Not as easy as "drain and refill," but not rocket science, either. I'm going to give it a shot this fall before I put the tractor away for the winter. Good Luck, Greg Here is a link that might be useful: Changing oil on

Do you have a volt meter? IF so, check the voltage across the battery with- Engine off Engine at high speed Engine at high speed with lights, PTO etc. on. Everything off should be 12.6 VDC. With engine running & full electrical load, it should be 13-14ish volts DC. Also switch meter to AC to see if there is any ACV present. There shouldn't be. IF you don't have 13-14 DCV across the battery at high speed, do the following- Disconnect the plug to the Voltage regulator and measure the ACV between the 2 Yellow?(non Red) wires. Depending on the charge system used, there should be something like 28 or 40 VAC MINIMUM. NOTE- That's AC Volts. IF you have the proper AC voltage, the alternator is OK and the problem lies with the voltage regulator or wiring.