NSCHLOSS - I installed (18 months ago) similar to the pictures above, EXCEPT I went one step further. Where she has the blank panel above the two drawers, I had my cabinet maker do a third drawer there. It was tight, and we weren't sure if it would end up being a fake drawer or a working drawer until we did the actual install. But, I really wanted a utensil drawer there if at all possible. And I got one... when you pull the drawer open, the actual drawer behind it is only 2" or so deep, the front makes it look like the normal 6-7" deep. Just deep enough to put non-combustible turners, tongs, large spoons, etc. for cooking. I don't keep rubber scrapers or even wooden spoons in there just to be safe. So, hows this been working in reality? I would defintely still do it for the handiness of having the utensils there. Every once in a great while, the jumbled utensils catch briefly beneath - but a quick jiggle and that addresses that. And sometimes, when I have three burners or more going, I will open up this drawer to aid in ventilation - not that it needs it necessarily - but, just to be cautious. It never seems to get very hot beneath the cooktop. Other than that, it's perfect. I'd definitely do it again... Although, I will caution - should you have a problem with the cooktop within the warranty period, I suppose they could argue that you have an improper install and deny any warranty claim....I decided to take that risk. Hope this helps you....

The problem you are likely to have is in attaching to something solid. When someone grabs a stair rail it must hold them from falling in any direction. Factoring in the leverage they have from a rail 36 inches above the surface and you have a tremendous lever arm and a lot of force at the attachment point. Wooden posts need to be relatively large (3x3 net) to work as supports for a handrail, and need to go into the ground at least half the height above the ground or be fastened solidly to masonry using expansion anchors. The anchors need to be spread out enough to create a solid attachment. 6-8 inches apart is typical. Other methods include driving 2 inch angle iron into the ground and then bolting the wood to the angle iron (through fasteners, not lag screws). Steel may also be mounted in holes in the masonry and the post bored to match. The metal would be at least ¾ inch square tubing (just like a metal post). I would consider using about 1 inch diameter round steel rod mounted into bored holes in the stone and substrate (you need at least 6-8 inches) and then a mating hole in the bottom of the post for at least 10-12 inches deep. The picture you have does not comply with modern codes since there are too many steps to not have a handrail (though local interpretation and codes may allow this setup for exterior landscaping steps). If it is actually entering a house you will need to comply with the code (no landscaping escape).

TaylorCraft Cabinet Door Company builds 3/4", 1" and 1.25" frame width 4S doors that are unique in their construction method and accept european hinges even at these narrow widths. The door construction is patent pending. 4S doors are offered in stain grade natural wood and paint grade material for those looking for a skinny shaker or slim shaker cabinet door look. 4S doors are true 3/4" thickness so they work with standard hinges designed for 3/4" thick doors. 4S doors have the following features: No lip moulds, no miter joint construction 90 degree joints which create a more stable, durable frame True 3/4″ door thickness Seamless, smooth, jointless back Real wood – in the white Works with standard hardware and hinges for 3/4″ thickness doors No nails, nail holes or fasteners that create hinge placement concerns

@Design Girl - I asked the rep to order a larger sample of the Thassos Bold Basketweave. The largest rectangular piece is representative of the size of the white pieces. When I put them up against the subway tile I plan to use, I notice the ratio of L x W is very different. Would that bother you? I'm attaching the large patter and the small. Anyone else care to comment? Thanks! Photo of Bold Basketweave floor tile and subway wall tile