How to properly install pavers & thermal bluestone...conflicting info

5 years ago

I live in NE Ohio and am having various contractors come to give me quotes on a patio/steps. I am interested in either thermal bluestone or pavers that look like bluestone (i.e. Unilock Beacon Hill or Richcliff). I currently have grass in the area where I want the patio; Backyard is not level and is sloped. [prior posts regarding ideas for the patio and showing pictures of the backyard: https://www.houzz.com/discussions/creative-ideas-for-backyard-area-dsvw-vd~4756777]

Method 1: For the pavers, one contractor told me the following: excavate (8-12'' deep), put stone/mesh/sand, then put a concrete pad (Furthest from the house: pile ons 36'' to support pad to avoid pull away or anything moving/shifting). Then use concrete adhesive to bond the pavers (basically gluing the pavers down).

Method 2: For pavers, another contractor told me: they'd excavate; for the base (6-8'' deep), put dust-3/4'' 411? crushed limestone; add water/tamper; put in screen rods (basically 1'' gas pipes); add polymeric sand; put pavers on top of the sand. No concrete.

Which method is correct?

How is thermal bluestone installed? (which method or neither and how)?

Assuming the steps would be the same material as the patio, how are steps properly installed?

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Comments (4)

kbear_15
Original Author
5 years ago
last modified: 5 years ago
Another question: When I asked whether the patio should start/go all the way to the house - I got two different responses One person said it should (it looks better); the other said it shouldn't since no one sits right up against the house and instead, have an area for plants/landscape). Is there a right answer with this one? (House is new construction, built late 2015/early 2016).
kbear_15
Original Author
5 years ago
Another question: Contractors differed on the steps exiting the house onto the patio. One said you could have a small landing at the same level as the house before stepping down; other said because the slider exterior threshold is metal, it conducts heat. In winter with the snow, it thaws/freezes, and eventually could affect the sliders ability to function. Thus, you could NOT have a small landing the same level as the house when exiting but instead need to step down 7” first.

who is correct???
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@Pink_Peony First, thank you for saying the work is stunning. Good field staff make all the difference. Hmmmm.....There could be a construction driven reason why North Carolina clay is problematic for bluestone but Chicago clay is not. For the life of my I cannot think of what it would be. I would be very reluctant to accept that explanation without some engineering to back it up. Those contractors could be right, but I am suspicious of their simplistic response. There used to be very few landscape material distributors but now they are a common site. I mention this because those distributors typically sell manufactured concrete pavers as well as an assortment of natural stone. If you call a distributor that sells both manufactured and natural stone products, ask whether there are issues with bluestone or natural stone in your area. If they sell both types of paving products then they do not have a vested interest in selling modular brick versus natural stone. I suspect that the negative contractor responses at the show on bluestone are driven by the skill of their work forces, not an issue with clay soils, but perhaps not. Of the manufacturers you listed I am somewhat familiar with Belgard and Pavestone. I took a look at the Cambridge stones you mentioned. Yes, Cambridge does have some very good looking product and they also have a trademarked face mix technique called Armor Tec. That casting technique is a real plus in my mind. Of all the modular products on the market I am most familiar with Unilock but I'm not sure if they are in the Carolina's. If you do have distributors in your area ask them who the three best contractors are locally for you. What you will get is probably 1) Their biggest buyer, 2) The best installer, 3) The next best installer. :)
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kbear_15
Original Author
5 years ago
last modified: 5 years ago
Is anyone able to comment/help answer my questions? I really would appreciate some input/advice. Thank you in advance.
PRO
Yardvaark
5 years ago
last modified: 5 years ago
You should not be getting quotes from contractors on something that is not designed yet, and then trying to compare the information about the various products and quotes. The project should be designed first so that the quotes will end up being apples to apples. You'll need to do it yourself or hire a designer. If you want to do it yourself and get help here, you still need to go through the design process which would involve drawings, pictures, brainstorming, etc. If you hire a designer then they can help you with all what you're asking about. You need to have some idea of your budget. If it only manages to buy a row boat, then you know you can immediately forget about anything that costs like the Queen Mary. As far as the install methods, I can't advise as all the information is not here (I don't chase links much anymore as it's too time consuming) and I don't have familiarity with some of what you mention. But pavers on a granular base is much less expensive than pavers mortared onto a concrete slab. Both hold up well when properly installed.

It drives me crazy to step down immediately at the door. There has to be as least one step (landing) at the floor level (or an inch below.) I don't live in the north anymore so don't know if the freeze-thaw issue as described is real but it sure sounds like BS. Regardless, I would have to have the landing at the floor level and put up with any problems it causes, as stepping down immediately is a bigger problem. It is sooooo "mobile home."
kbear_15 thanked Yardvaark

How to properly install pavers & thermal bluestone...conflicting info

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How to properly install pavers & thermal bluestone...conflicting info

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