My husband did the installation of our 30RNB. He also did the gas lines and shut off valves. He has done this kind or work before. The most challenging thing about the install is making sure the gas and electric are placed so they don't prevent the range from being placed all the way back against the wall. Also remembering to prep the site by getting some tile on to the wall behind the stove. We nearly forgot to do this as we won't be doing the rest of the backsplash til much later. We also had some extra insulation material left over from another project (white on one side and silver quilted on the other) and we lined the cabs on both sides of the range. We had the White Glove service done a few days later. He checked all the gas connections external to the range as well as the range itself. He also showed me how to make adjustments.

I presume there is proper purchase for the screw threads behind the tile. A wall stud, for example. Here's my recommendation since this is a fail times two. Have them remove the bracket and drill an oversized hole the depth of the tile, the thinset, and if the backer board is frangible or compressible, the depth of the backer board as well. In a typical situation that might be 1/4" + 1/8" + 1/2", or 7/8" depth total. So drill a hole 3/8" in diameter (or whatever diameter your sleeve is) and 7/8" depth (or as needed per the explanation above). Insert a metal sleeve bushing into that oversized hole. The goal is for the sleeve to be at least flush with or just slightly proud of the face of the tile. Here's an example. Not the perfect size or proportion, but a quick grab off the internet to define "metal sleeve": Aluminum or copper is fine, if steel I recommend spot priming them for corrosion protection. Install the sleeve into the oversized hole. Then install the hinge bracket. The sleeve will transfer the compression forces from the hinge brackets directly to the studs, bypassing the fragile tile, grout, and backer board. Just an idea.

Also, does anyone have the ability in their design tools to color the wall in my image a darker color to give me an idea of what it would look like? I'm handy with photoshop, but not that skilled. I'm just terrified to go darker (per the colorist) and it turning out terribly. Painting is such a hassle and dark paint will be such a mess. Thank you!

Oh dear. Wood or wood-like flooring (bamboo is NOT hardwood...just a little FYI there) should be NOT be installed before the wet work is finished. In the installation instructions, CaliBamboo is VERY good about pointing these types of things out you will find most of the details (there is something about 'the devil is in the details). The installer is responsible for installing the floor according to Best Practices (NWFA) as well as the manufacturer's requirements. Print off the document and ask the installer how close s/he came to following the requirements. As soon as the installer failed to follow the requirements, the installer voided the manufacturer's warranty. The installer *should have offered a 1 year 'labour' warranty. You will have to check your contract to ensure you have this in writing. Engineered bamboo is tricky to live with. It is tricky to deal with. It is tricky to keep happy. As a homeowner, bamboo requires you to keep very STRICT household living conditions. The installer is not responsible for the living conditions. Bamboo is unstable. It has issues with humidity swings. It has issues with differences between humidity at time of install (acclimating after install) and the final 'living conditions'. If the variation is too big, the bamboo is going to have a problem. A big, big problem. That means a poorly acclimated engineered bamboo that was installed during a DAMP period (like a wet spring + wet work follows = higher than normal humidity) will shrink once the humidity dips back to normal (for the homeowner). Shrinkage is seen as gaps opening up between planks (bamboo shrinks both length and width wise) as well as splitting and cracking (called 'checking'). To slow down shrinkage, you will need to put the humidity BACK to what it was during and just after the installation. To be clear, Bamboo has a very small window of happy. It is the smallest 'living condition' window in the building industry (which is why it is so d@mn difficult to live with/keep happy). So...first things first: find out what your indoor humidity is right now. If it is below 45% you will need to raise the humidity to a minimum of 45%. And you must keep it there. For the next 25 years. That normally requires a whole-home humidifier + AC for summer. And if the 45% doesn't get rid of everything, then you need to get it closer to 50% (55% might be possible depending on how damp it was at the time of install and during the wet work). Once you have stabilized the humidity levels in your home, you can then look the installer for help with any problems that do not resolve. The home needs to be humidified for bamboo. Winter shrinkage is a death sentence for bamboo. For bamboo, even 35% is too low. Why? Because bamboo is not hardwood.