James Hardie Rustic Series by Woodtone? Transitional/rustic New build
We are building our new home up on a little mountain on 2 acres. Anyone have any experience with the Rustic Series by Woodtone/ James Hardie (or even prefinished LP Smart siding?) I love the look of stained wood, but hubby wants Hardie or something that will have less maintenance. Our plan was to just do hardie horizontal and vertical painted, but now that I've seen these that look a little like stained wood I'm intrigued.
We will have stone across the bottom of the home, and a 10 foot covered/gabeled entry porch that will be added to the front so it looks a little goofy right now.
Thanks for any info!
Comments (11)
K Scotty
5 years agolast modified: 5 years agoRelated Discussions
Need Advice on Curb Appeal
Comments (30)I'm very late to the party, but here goes. Well, I think your place has lots of potential. I did not read every response in detail, so I hope I don't duplicate what others have said. I'm not a professional designer. First where in PA are you? I'm in Lancaster county and there are lots of quality nurseries with good prices. A good book for beginners is "Garden Primer" by Barbara Damrosch. And it is good advice, but hard to do, maybe try living thru all four seasons before you make changes. You might get surprised by drainage patterns, etc. Is your house visible from the road? Maybe take a pic from there to help visualize the house and setting. Do you ever plan to subdivide the property or build another home, as the previous owners did? This would make a difference for large tree placement. My sense of your question is that you just want to make your house and its setting look better. It sounds like you are new to gardening and still developing a sense of style. The curving path is nice. I would suggest making an area in front of door that would serve as a "landing", say about a 4 ft x 4 ft square (could be bigger though, but not entire width of house) that would be a transition from path to front door. Use slate or more substantial stepping stones for this landing. Then move planters away from house to somewhere else. Make the beds deeper, with some curves. I read somewhere that if take your house and tipped it forward on its 'face', your beds should be that deep. I would use some cone shaped evergreens by corners of the house, do not exceed the height of house. Pant a grouping of shrubs to step down a bit from these tallest shrubs next to the corners. Maybe around the corner from the garage you could make a little landing pad for garbage can, and then they could be somewhat hidden from view by the evergreens. I'm thinking in hot summer you will want the cans outside and not in the garage. Maybe a trellis between window and driveway to soften exterior of house. Adding shutters will be nice, use the paneled type, not louvered. (you have enough "lines" with the siding.) Not sure about good choices for deer resistant plants, that seems to be very regional. Maybe the nursery down the road can help with that.. How much sun do you get, and what zone? If sunny then you could do a lot. Holly both evergreen and deciduous with some berries. You will need male and female plants with hollies. Also, arborvitae, or juniper, for evergreen shrubs. I would put some rounded, kind of fluffy evergreens, in front also. There are some arborvitaes like that, some have gold foilage. I think the foundation planting can't get too huge though, you don't want to overwhelm the house. Then some easy care perennials, coral bells, daylily, daisy, white and purple cone flowers, lambs ears, yarrow and some ornamental grasses. Other deciduous shrubs that could be nice in a a separate border are butterfly bush, they can get huge, though. Viburnums, some smell wonderful, but others not so much, so check them out when in bloom. Clethra is nice but takes forever to leaf out in spring so you may not want this in front of house. Other easy care deciduous shrubs are itea, fothergilla, they both get nice fall color, beauty berry, red twig dogwood, blue mist shrub. You could incorporate these with some huge spruces in a largish bed, some distance from house but visible from inside. Best of luck....See MoreHow Do You Handle Color In Your Garden?
Comments (98)I love the same colors you do, Ingrid and am a real fan of white and pale pink. I try to create a flow of color in my garden grouping colors together in sections with the white and pale pink and blue accents throughout. This year I planted tons of new iris and had a Purple bed and Blue bed nearish each other and another purple bed out farther with a bed of burgundys and a bed of mismash luminatas and odd greyish ones together to be moved later. I almost keeled over when the brightest yellow you can imagine popped up there (a free iris). I shall dig it and plant it next door at the vacation rental where I plant my too orange roses also. I have a pale yellow bed of other flowers and a pale yellow and purple section of roses. I plant white and cream and a few purple foxgloves about as well as white and blue campanula throughout. I am also scattering Sweet Williams around for summer color. I play on Pinterest with colors of plants on a board that is just for me to dabble with. I helps me combine other plants with rose color schemes. I try to like yellow so plant pale versions such as the magnolia Elizabeth, and pale yellow peonies along with cream near purples, like the iris. I do like some of the dark dark pink roses, the ones without a true red, that will blue with age and have those in a bed with white roses interspersed. My garden is young and sometimes I make impulse purchases that somehow find a place somewhere. I find if I don't love the color of a plant I kill it without meaning to do so and have killed many rudbeckias because though I love them at other people's houses, I can't get around to even liking them in my garden, I stick with Shasta daisies and echinacea in pinks for that shape. I like themes so have a black and white section of the garden, in back of the dark dark pink and white roses, along with a section for the Little Girl Series of magnolias from the 1950s with roses in pinks in between. I am collecting the Snow White and the Seven Dwarfs roses from the Netherlands and am planning a little "Snow White" garden with lots of white other flowers with the roses. As I have a disease which causes fatigue and pain, I am planning more benches in shady nooks and after a friend showed me a picture of lie down benches in a forest in Scotland I am determined to have that also. I have a section of peonies along with some dwarf fruit trees and also have peonies interspersed with the roses, again mainly in whites and pale pinks but have some corals in another section of the garden and a few pale yellows. I am planting the native Pacific Dogwoods about as I love them so. I follow deer trails for my beds with some cut throughs I make. It sounds very grand, but it isn't yet, perhaps in 20 years!...See Moremodern farmhouse
Comments (66)I absolutely agree, mid century modern is an ambiguous term. So is transitional. If someone asks for MCM we know what they want. Low, sleek furniture with mid-tone exposed wood; glossy surfaces, maybe a little plastic-y; saturated colours. The difference with Farmhouse is that it is so specifically tied to an occupation and lifestyle. If someone asks for "the style that would typically be in a lawyer's house" how do you help from there? At first, I did understand the OP to mean Modern Farmhouse. And I agree, we have a broad idea of what that is but I do think it is very open to interpretation, more so than other styles. Then s/he clarified "...type of trim that [is] typically in farmhouses..." That's what I reacted to, because I took him or her at his or her word. And I thought it was important to note that no such thing as a "typical farmhouse" exists. It is academic though. I believe this family can and should have a home that they find beautiful no matter how it is labelled. It's my own problem that the label bothers me, and I know part of what bothers me is the idyllic stereotype that is perpetuated by "Modern Farmhouse." Is it made worse because agriculture is being continuously undermined and real farm families are losing their homes and farms everyday? Probably. That's also a personal problem that doesn't belong in this thread. Good luck @kennady, many blessings in your new home....See MoreHardie vs. Allura Siding
Comments (19)Ive been building for 30 years and have used different brands of fiber board. I have questions presented to me about pros and cons frequently. Since we all have internet access and can research products, it helps compare. What the online comparisons do not tell you is how it really holds up. Lets say you go with a less expensive concrete fiber board and your builder installs it -pre primed but cannot get it painted for two months. If it is rainy where you live-DO NOT DO IT. Moisture will absorb into the fiberboard and thus ruin the pre primed finish and thus void your warranty. The only time you want the LP Smart siding or similar product is if you will get paint on it immediately-never let it get wet until painted, or you just want to save the money upfront and risk the consequences. I have used combinations in some cases at request of owners. When scraps have been thrown into a pile together, by time we cleaned up and hauled off-you can see how the products, other than James Hardi siding-fell apart ( yes-fell apart from moisture). I do not discourage smart siding or similar-just be cautious and handle materials properly. Done right, they are all beautiful....See MoreK Scotty
5 years ago
ILoveRed
5 years agoK Scotty
5 years agoK Scotty
4 years agolast modified: 4 years agoThought I’d post an update.
We decided to go with smooth hardy plank. I picked the stone: ElDorado York limestone. I wanted the stone that was in the linked picture up above but I can’t find anything like it in the manufactured stone options, and I have heard real stone costs so much more money so I was trying to stick to the less expensive manufactured stone . Anyway, here is what I am trying to decide between now.
We decided to have our trim color Matched to our brown windows, and the only issue with that is that we found there are a lot of pinkish purple tones to the brown of our windows so it limits the paint colors we can choose for the body of the house. I wanted a darker, warmer color, but that is difficult with this specific trim color. My favorite colors so far were Benjamin Moore Kingsport gray, and Sherman Williams warm stone. My designer friend told me they both had too much gold in them, and not enough contrast for the trim color. She pointed me towards Sherwin Williams Keystone gray or Benjamin Moore elephant gray. Both were too llight for me. . I liked the Keystone gray better because it had more gold in it than elephant ear, but wanted it a little darker so I had them darken the Keystone gray to 125% (25% darker) and 150%. (50% darker) ( they left out the extra white when they did that )
Anyway, that’s where we are at. I think I have it narrowed down between 2 of them... the Keystone gray
125% (=25% darker) and
150% (50% darker).
my designer friend still likes the original Keystone Gray (one on the right) because she says it gets too golden when it gets darker. I know these pictures won’t be very accurate because the white balance keeps changing depending on what light is hitting it.
Here are pictures… from left to right looking at the picture is Benjamin Moore Kingsport gray (she says it's too golden for the tones in the trim), then Sherman Williams keystone gray 150% (50% darker), then 125% (25% darker) then just regular keystone gray on the right which is too light for me. Designer friend likes the lightest one on the right because she likes a lot of contrast between the trim and the body color but I don’t really like a lot of contrast since I like the look of stained wood.
In the next few pictures, I have them labeled. BM equals Benjamin Moore Kingsport gray (which designer friend says is too dark and golden), then:
50 equals keystone gray 150% (50% darker), 25 equals keystone gray 125% ( 25% darker ), and then “ - “ equals regular Keystone Gray with no darkening.
This next pic is Benjamin Moore Kingsport gray on the top, then the next two down are SW keystone grey 150% (50% darker), then the bottom two are SW keystone grey 125% (25% darker).
And I forgot to label this one but the top and the very bottom are keystone gray, the next two in are 125% (25% darker), then the very middle one is 150% (50% darker). I did not paint the Benjamin Moore Kingsport gray on this wall. They All look very different depending on the light and the time of the day.
And then just a couple of updated pictures: I don't like how the deck turned out but that's a whole different story. I wanted a darker brownish less orange tone... I would have picked a different darker wood with clear stain. That's what I get when I leave a decision up to the hubby. Kinda like the rough cedar trim hubby decided on to put around all the windows/doors/belly bands vs. having smooth hardi like I would have wanted if he would have asked me LOL. By the time I realized it, 3/4 of the trim was done and I couldn't ask to have it changed. Oh well. Worse things could have happened.
K Scotty
4 years ago
PROValter and Anna fon Eynik
4 years agoHi Scotty,
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