Do I use soil, mulch, or compost or all?
esqmarlar
6 years ago
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Do I Need Fertilizer with high nutritious, composted soil?
Comments (56)“Salty” Manure It’s quite easy to find NPK values for manures and manure compost. Bagged composts containing manure that I have seen are typically in the NPK range of other bagged composts ��" 1-1-1 for example. It is not so easy to find ‘salt’ content of manures. Everyone likes to SAY that “manure is salty,” but there are vastly more NPK reports for manures on the web than there is data on salt content. If anyone has actual data, please post a link. Fact sheets and articles saying manure is salty are not particularly useful. It does make sense that when urine is included in the manure, it would have higher salt content. Particularly in a feedlot, where (reportedly) higher salt levels are fed in order to make the animals retain water so they sell for more. If you’re getting manure from someone who has a couple of horses, it’s probably going to be different from manure from a beef feedlot. This does not make all manure unusable. My FIL put manure on his garden (NE silty sandy loam) annually for decades and had wonderful gardens year after year. I have clay (which retains salts longer), mostly use my own compost, and wouldn’t use pure manure year after year. I do occasionally buy bagged products that have or probably have manure in them. No problems here. “Alkaline Soils” A claim was made that Western soils retain more salt because they are alkaline. It was always my impression that Western soils retain salts better because it’s more arid in the West so they are not washed out. Regardless, it might be a good idea for Westerners to watch the amount of manure they add, and know what’s in it. Unfortunately in arid zones there is often a lack of green waste for composting, but there are lots of cattle so manure becomes an important source of OM for gardeners. “Heavy Metals” I was able to find a paper on extraction of HM from manures and it appeared that Cd, Hg, Pb were somewhat higher than they might be in native soils depending upon where you are. Based on the numbers I saw, it would take a looong time for them to become significant. However metals do accumulate (they don’t biodegrade) and the heavy ones likely don’t leach away (the more clayey the soil, the more they will stick). Basically any time you’re importing organic matter (or synthetic fertilizer, for that matter), any bioaccumulative constituents present are being added to your current load. Unless you can subsist entirely on your own compost made from your own waste, this is an inevitable consequence. How long would it take for Pb to build up to an unsafe level in topsoil if you’re adding so many lb of imported compost per sq ft per year? The math is not actually that complicated. What’s the HM content of non-manure based composts (i.e. the alternatives)? What’s the background level of HM in the soil to begin with? These are all things to consider, and there is no single answer due to the endless variations. Rejecting the use of manure based compost entirely, on the basis of HM content, is a very simplistic approach....See Moremulching the soil with compost
Comments (3)I use compost as mulch all the time. I dug a lot of compost into the soil when I established the beds, but now I just use it on top. Yes, as long as you put on a minimum of 3-4", it holds in moisture and keeps down weeds just like any other mulch. It also helps prevent compaction from winter rains. It isn't nearly as durable as a mulch like cedar chips, but it feeds the soil. The worms till it into the soil for me, so my soil stays rich and fluffy even though I don't turn it much. I mulch throughout the year whenever I have the time or when I need to start a new a compost bin or the mulch has worn away or a bed has been disturbed, like when I divide or move plants around. I probably mulch each bed twice a year. I make my own compost and I buy it. My homemade mulch is sometimes a bit chunky, but it works just fine. It actually may last longer, but it doesn't look quite as nice and I sometimes have a few seeds sprout that have survived my composting. I usually use it in my vegie garden or some out of the way place. I would certainly recommend compost as a mulch....See Morecompost and mulch for soil amendment
Comments (3)No, you did nothing wrong. In fact, you've got the beginnings for a very good soil happening and what you've come to recognize is that time plays a very big factor in the equation. Good soil, unless imported in total, takes time to develop. 9 months is just a blink of the eye :-) I've been working my soil for more than 20 years and it's in pretty darn good shape but I keep adding compost or other OM every season. Just keep doin' what you're doing!...See Moreknow any sources for good soil, compost and mulch?
Comments (2)Amherst sells compost at a great price, and open to anyone, not only residents. It's NOT sewage, so no heavy metals and ok for veggies. I buy it by the truckload - $20 for a full size pickup heaped. Or you get it by the bucket. It's great stuff, however, it is full of little plastic pieces from landscapers who dump all their trash, not just plant material. So you will probably have to spend a fair bit of time pulling all that plastic out. I also buy shredded wood mulch from a place on Route 33 just west of Corfu. Much more expensive ($60 per truckload) but still lots cheaper than bags, and has no plastic in it. So it's good for mulching the top. You may not want to drive that far. $40 truckload for big wood chips. Topsoil I get from a local excavator. They all seem to charge about the same. $20-$25 per yard delivered. Here is a link that might be useful: amherst compost facility...See Moreesqmarlar
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