Like the last poster said make sure the opening is the proper width to fit a pre hung unit. Like he said prehung units that big are a lot easier to move with the doors removed. Mdf Doors wiegh a ton and 2 of them in the frame would be impossible to move. A frame can be jockeyed around a tight stairwell. There is another route if the openings are a non standard size, bypass doors. All the closets in the bedrooms have them and I just ordered door blanks and installed them on new hardware. I recomend Johnson hardware for bypass doors. It's cheaper to order from the company than have a big box order it in. Here is a link that might be useful: johnson hardware

Just wondering if you can do a pair of doors similar to those on an armoire I have. The solid doors are hinged top and bottom to close over the opening, then can slide back along the inside of the armoire along plastic 'guides'. Another idea: We have a woven-wood product instead of drapes at our Maui condo. They are attached at the top to run along a rail like draperies.. They stack to nothing. The have magnetic closures where the pair meet. (You could do one-way.) I remember seeing a similar product used as a closet doors in motels in the 1950's. These are easily vacuumed and can be wiped clean.

kudzu, there are no jambs. The pivot base is screwed right into the top and bottom of the door opening on the problem door; thus into the wood under the drywall at the top, and into the wood floor at the bottom. I just went and checked it. The base is secure top and bottom. It's the metal pivot going into the door that is wobbling. The door starts tilting at the top, where it starts hitting the side of the door opening at the top. When the people installing the doors installed them, I guess they didn't know that a solid door needed more. I ordered the doors custom made so I could stain them to match my kitchen, and they did say they'd never seen anything like them. Last time he replaced them, my husband just went to Menard's and bought them, so I don't know if they were labeled for load capacity. Said if these failed, we were out of options. That's got to be it. Thank you so much for telling me about this! These are just too flimsy for the load of the solid wood oak door we bought. The door is tilting again. What kind of load capacity should I be looking for? Should I just weigh the door when we take it off? Can you get a variety of ones with different loads at a common home improvement store, or is this something I will need to order?

I have some basic plans. The dresser should fit in the closet with the drawers open even, even though it will make access even more difficult on the big ledge, but I think it will work. I will need to test it. But it should fit along with a laundry hamper and a few hooks to hang a couple button up shirts and backpacks. I have one plan for a crib, and then I will put the crib mattress under the bed and pull it out at night and nap time. It is so light you could just nudge it under with your foot. The most difficult part will be clearing toys and clothes out of the way some days. I have a sideboard in our living room that we might want to rehome to the bedroom, it would work well as a play and display surface as well as storage, and they could have a few baskets or bins of lego and cars under it. We also have a recessed shelf which my older boy will use for his special things and books. I will add either book shelves or the ikea "spice rack" shelves that we currently use for books in the older kids' rooms. Do you see any problems with these plans? I still haven't figured out a storage system for the ledge, where I can access the back.