Nicole: If the end pieces I pictured above were missing, you'd be looking at an exposed cabinet style and the top and bottom rail on each end and a hole between the three. The drawer end covers the void and makes your eye continue the line from the doors upward. A flush piece in the void would have to fit perfectly, be finished matched, would not continue the line, and would therefore look stupid. You're not going to find any pictures because no one would ever go through that much work for something that's not going to look good. Here's a full size 33" apron sink properly mounted in a 36" cabinet. The distance from the cabinet end to the sink apron end will be 3" on your job, not the 1 1/2" pictured here which I admit doesn't look too bad. That sink was replaced by this short apron Elkay Quartz Luxe. The bottom of the apron now lines up with the adjacent drawer bottom, and there is virtually no cabinet face exposed which I think looks better. I made the customer find a factory painted color match trim (you provide, you agree color matches) which I installed above and flush with the top of the middle rail to fill the gap. That didn't have to fit nearly as nicely as flush side fillers would have to, because only the person reaching under the sink will ever see it.

That's unfortunate. Are you familiar with Murphy' Law? Well, what can go wrong, will, and did in your case. There are some things that can easily be accomplished, however, gaining significant storage will require more extensive measures. You can move the recep. box mounted on the floor of the cabinet, to the wall, however, if there is an additional feed from that box, through the floor of the cabinet, it becomes more difficult. If you opt to eliminate the switch/s/ and install an air-switch for the disposal, than have 2, 20amp recep., 1 for the DW and the other for the disposal. Feeding the DW off of a recp. is fairly common, however, I'd relocate the place the cord comes into the cabinet to the lower rear corner. There are two option for the placement of the air-switch, switch. Either drilling the counter or installing it in the cabinet face frame. The disposal uses the high loop instead of an air gap, however, the hose can be shortened and connected. You may feel that the disposal is the problem, when it's actually the 2" waste line and where it penetrates the cabinet and the loop vent does not help. It should have been contained within the wall. Both methods of correcting that would require removing a portion of the cabinet floor.

It's understandable that a homeowner might not be familiar with the design of bath cabinets, counters and lavs but a homeonwer should want to learn how to avoid the kind of faucet problem described in this thread. So, those of you who want to learn, read on. I am an experienced architect and thought I understood how to design undermount lavs until I undersized a vanity cabinet for one in the 80's. I now have CAD templates for all the lavs I am likely to use along with their spec sheets and templates. The clear bowl dimensions front to back of oval or elliptical undermount lavs commonly vary from 12" to 15" with oval 14" x 17" popular for modern style bathrooms and elliptical 12" x 21" popular for for vintage style bathrooms. My favorites are the 12 x 15 Kohler Caxton K-2209 and the 12" x 21" Kohler Vintage K-2240 but when there is more depth than width available I will use the 14x17 Caxton K-2210. These are clear bowl sizes; subtract 1/2" or more each direction for the overhang of the counter to get the counter opening. For the smallest cabinet size front to back add 2 1/2" at the front and 4 1/2" at the back to the clear bowl size: 22" cab. for 15" lav. (23" for backsplash, 24" OK if space available) 21" cab. for 14" lav. (22" for backsplash, 23" OK if space available) 20" cab. for 13" lav. (21" for backsplash, 22" OK if space available) 19" cab. for 12" lav. (20" for backsplash, 21" OK if space available) To match a faucet to a lav read the specs of each and align the spout opening with the drain opening. To make a long spout align with a lav designed for a short spout (drain off-center to the back), rather than making the cabinet larger and pushing the faucet back, use an elliptical bowl like the 12" Kohler Vintage which would allow the faucet to be farther back from the bowl without making the user reach farther back to operate the handles which are already back more than required for any other kind of lav. It is also possible to place the spout of a wide-spread faucet farther from the curve of the bowl than the valve handles. These custom design ideas would require printing the installation template, marking up the new faucet hole locations and issuing it to the GC who would otherwise have no way of knowing the design intent. That design should be confirmed with counter shop drawings from the fabricator. A counter should not be fabricated without he signature of the designer/owner and the GC. I would not allow field cutting of openings but that has never even been suggested. The counter shop drawing below is for 14x17 lavs on a 22" cabinet with a 3/4" backsplash. If the bathroom had been tight I could have used 12" lavs.

They can be cut. I-beams are there to keep things square during assembly and installation. Once the cabinets are properly installed they should not shift. Try to leave the corners intact but they often fall out when the middle is cut away. The obsessed may want to add a block to the corners on the dishwasher side.