Thanks for the responses guys, Yes, this is the picture. Nice to see that the owner of this awesome kitchen (nhbaskets) is still around and following the discussions as to whether or not I'll steal your crown idea ;-) I do all my own work, so there is no GC involved. I have already done all the room crown and have tried the chimney both with and without crown already. In fact, it's up now, just have not decided if I want to leave it. Yeah, it's a pain to attach, but not impossible. I can't decide which way I think looks better, so I was wondering if there was a standard way to do it. Also, with the crown you can not easily remove the chimney cover, should you ever have to. Now from what I'm hearing, the standard way seems to be to not wrap the crown around the chimney, but the reason seems to be based on how *difficult* it is rather than what actually looks best. Is there anyone else out there who has a crown-wrapped SS chimney? Any pictures?

I would tend to do the same as S_M suggests. You can lay out the cut line with a "jigger" tool. This is harder to explain than do. You simply make a wedge-shaped piece of wood with a couple of saw-tooth cut-outs on one edge. Lay up a piece of paper and then put the point of the wedge in the critical and transition points and trace around the whole thing. Take down the paper and you can create the exact profile on the back of your molding or yet another pattern piece. I would use a coping saw, or if the piece is small enough, a band saw to trim the profile. I would tend to use a pattern maker's rasp instead of a chisel, but I could live with either. Back cutting is important. Do this profile before you cut the other end to length (assuming it's a butt or miter at the other end). You always should do the hardest part first before cutting to length. Best case scenario: you can just butt the other end into the wall and cope the adjoining piece to make an inside miter.

When you signed off on the cabinet order, was the order placed right away or did it wait until the molding price came in? I bet you are being penalized for placing a separate small order and they may have a minimum shipping charge that you would not have had to pay if the molding had been ordered at the same time. Do not mention it until you get an answer, but if yes, it is more for that reason, you should let them know you expect they will take care of this without penalty to you and speak with a manager if necessary. They should not have placed your order until it was complete if it would cost you more to do wo without discussing it with you. If they didn't, you should not have to abosrb the cost. If you are still within the time when you can cancel the entire order with minimal/no loss, you might nicely inquire if that is possible while you work this out, and then place the order again with everything included. Before you say anyththing else you might want inquire if this is the case. The fact that the labor for the molding was included in the original contract clearly indicates that they were aware that you wanted it. And, yes, I think molding makes a huge difference in the finished look of the kitchen even if it is a very simple molding. The one exception might be a galley type kitchen or a contemporary style. JMHO. Unless DH is exceptional, most men don't place anywhere near as much importance on aesthetics as you would, but chances are when you go to sell, the molding will pay for itself. Sue

Since you have crown identical to your existing, and the existing runs right into the adjacent wall, do a youtube search for "coping crown inside corners". Simplistically, you'll cut the crown at an inside 45 degree angle. Then use a coping saw to cut a slight back cut right right along the cut line made when you did the 45. The coped edge of the new crown will butt right into the profile of the existing crown as long as they have the same profile. If you're not familiar with the basics of cutting crown, do a search for "cutting crown upside down and backwards". You can miter the outside corners and miter or cope the inside corners. Coping inside corners works well if the inside corner angle is slightly off of a perfect 90 degrees. If your new crown has a different profile, you can scribe the end of the new crown to fit the profile of the existing crown. Enjoy!