Have you had a chance to read the "Read Me" thread? It has several topics that I think would help you with designing your new kitchen. There are threads that discuss topics like work zones and good layout advice (like workspace in each work zone and around fixtures and appliances, overhangs, aisle widths, etc.) as well the "Layout Help" topic that describes the information we need to help you find the best layout for you and your family. You have some of the information (e.g., the fact that you cannot move or change doors), but there is a lot of other information that would be very helpful (e.g., what is your family composition and, if you have children, your children's ages; how do you plan to user your kitchen, etc.). Additionally, when posting a layout for comments on or help with, post it in the message itself, not as a link. Also, we need additional information about your floor plan - the widths of each door/doorway/window/wall and the distances b/w each door/doorway/window/wall. I've linked the "Read Me" thread below. One thing I thought I'd mention is that when measuring overhangs, aisles, etc., keep in mind that counters generally overhang cabinets by 1.5", so that needs to be taken into account in any measurements. Is your island going to be all one level (recommended) or will it be bi-level? I strongly recommend increasing the seating overhang to 15" (the minimum recommended for counter-height). If you're a tall family, then I recommend 18". As you will see when you check out the Layout Help topic, we need the following additional measurements: Larger version, if needed: Good luck! Here is a link that might be useful: New To Kitchens? Posting Pics? Read Me!

I have a master bedroom closet area along a wall that is bisected by the chimney chase of a fireplace on the floor below, making a his and hers pair of closets. This is a triple-wall metal chimney surrounded by firecode sheetrock on the inside, studs, insulation, and sheetrock on the outside, including an access panel. It eats up about 30 inches of closet length. For a 10-inch kitchen hood duct with significantly less fire and access restrictions, you would probably loose at most only 20 inches. Many things are possible if the house design is recursively adjusted to accommodate all of the requirements. Do not rush the construction until you are certain that you have met your needs; there will be enough surprises even after everything seems to be defined. If you go to equivalent rectangular duct, you may still need to bulge the wall or otherwise ensure that there is not too much duct restriction. Rectangular ducts of equal sectional area to round ducts have a bit more pressure loss per foot. This should not be your first consideration, however, because you can find a blower with a fan curve suitable for the duct design, even if the duct path is tortuous. As for all of your construction questions, I'll have to ponder them when I have time, if I can understand them. In any case, if cooking is an important part of your life, then ensure that the kitchen design and the ventilation design are given the attention and space that they deserve. Unfortunately, it seems that your framing plan is somewhat past the point of easy revision. For others reading this: Please, please, PLEASE look into and solve all of the kitchen issues before finalizing a design and signing a contract. Comments on your bullet questions: - ?run horizontal through floor joists? YES - ?use rectangular duct vent when necessary? YES - ?Is it allowed to run near/along side the gas dryer vent? Not aware of any restriction on the moist air vent (note dryer vent has to be metal also. However, care to allow access for both, and particularly for the dryer vent duct for cleaning, is important.) For gas effluent vent, that should be determined by consultation with the architect, code officer, or gas company tech. Note: given a gas dryer, we are now in the regime of not letting the differential air pressure at the dryer fall below 0.03 inches, w.c., and make-up air performance or sealing off the gas dryer from the kitchen air is another big part of the kitchen ventilation design. - Run down into the basement if it can't run up? YES, but less optimal than up - Exit through an exterior wall rather than roof? YES - Best to get it in the garage and up into the attic and then up out the roof? Don't know about best yet, but it is a valid option. - best to have the range on wall A or wall B (does it make a difference)? TBD. Kitchen layout should account for numerous factors, of which duct location is only one. - assume need to use remote or in-line blower with any plan given its non-traditional route? In most cases, an external blower with an in-line silencer will be the lowest noise solution. kas

smm - it's like you have ESP! The last 24 hours have been all about cabinets (even more than usual). At the risk of getting eggs thrown at me, I'm considering changing course on cabinets. I've been researching Cliq Studios cabinet company, and started talking to them today. I wore my contractor down, told him it's basically the same thing as his preferred cabinet supplier, but I like Cliq's options more. Although I'm sure Sophie et al. would say if it's Chinese they're all the same, I feel a lot more comfortable ordering from them (they have 50,000 facebook reviews, mostly glowing, 5-star rating with Better business bureau), and I think this is a step above other ready-to-assemble cabinets I've looked into. They're having a 40% off sale right now (I know that sounds so cheesy..."act now to get 40% off"). I'm impressed that Blum motion glides and soft close hardware come standard, they use I beams to strengthen the boxes, they're carb 2 compliant, it's comes pre-assembled with free shipping and...did I mention they're having a 40% off sale right now? We've got a pretty tight budget and can only change cabinet suppliers if the cost is comparable, which, based on the rough estimate I got last night on their website, I think it'll be. So, long explanation to say that I'm leaning toward an off-white color called "Painted Linen".

It’s true that most downdrafts just don’t work. The cottura by Best does (its OEMed by Wolf). I have the Wolf version to match my Wolf gas rangetop. It handles searing just fine. The old one didn’t (GE model). But my stove is also in front of an 8ft slider and has 2 72” ceiling fans to push air back down, or up and out my transom windows 30 ft above - just in case the smoke gets nuts (it doesn’t). My kitchen is a double island and has a half wall facing the living room and a wall on the other side by the dining and family rooms. It’s a post and grade beam house with most walls being sheer walls. There just wasn’t a way to put in a roof vent without ruining the architecture (and sweeping views). Most people have what I had at my old house, a small kitchen that must fit the maximum amount of function and storage into a limited amount of space and budget. And yet, they still manage to cook, quite well, I might add. You don’t need high end products to cook well. And most people don’t have adequate venting in their kitchens. That’s a luxury.