Sierra Pacific windows…help, please! Why does the glass look "green"?
kat123
6 years ago
last modified: 6 years ago
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Robin Sova
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Comments (32)Oh, good. You just might end up reevaluating that laminate decision, huh? By the way, where are you in the planning process? Have you chosen your cabinets yet? If so, what are you planning to get? I wish I could be getting started now---there are just too many variables in our life right now, so that we don't know if we want to remodel our current home and plan on staying here indefinitely or just update a bit and sell this home and build or buy and remodel another home. Without going into too much detail, our decisions are being driven to a large extent by the needs of a disabled child, elderly parents (on both sides), and the possibility that my mother-in-law would need to move in with us---in which case, it makes more sense to stay here, as we have a full apartment available for her. Anyway, since our plans are so uncertain at this point, I find myself all over the map---one day I want to just complete the hardwood floors throughout the house, slap on some new laminate in the kitchen, and update our faucet and call it good. Other days I'm thinking of doing a major renovation from the floor up. Ah well, at least I'm gathering important information that will, hopefully, be useful when the time comes. Let us know when your samples arrive....See MorePlease Help!! Looking for EXTREME modern/minimalistic cabinetry!
Comments (21)Are you kidding me? I want modern high gloss doors too, but ALL of these cabinets are CRAP!!! They are all particleboard and MDF! No offense, but that is EXACTLY what Ikea is! At least Ikea prices it's cabinets at a rate that matches the lifetime they will last: 5-7 years. I LOVE St. Charles, but I imagine they cost well over $50,000. Anyone know for sure? I really want vintage metal cabs, but they just do not fit my kitchen. That's why I'm trying to go Mid-Mod in WOOD - NOT PARTICLEBOARD! The Ultracraft cost $17,000 a few years ago? Ikea costs $7,000 today for the same thing. Granted, their sizes suck (none of the turquoise glass doors I want fit my kitchen). For $17,000 you can buy wood cabinets from PA and order custom high-gloss doors from another company and still probably have the carcasses custom painted. After seeing these prices for particleboard, those plywood cabinets are actually looking like a bargain (though NOTHING compares to the solid wood cabs in my original kitchen). And all this "Green" marketing is B.S.! Particle board and MDF do not last - MDF disintegrates in water! Wood lasts. Having to dump and replace your kitchen every few years is as far from "green" as you can get! Nevermind all the toxic resins and glues used to make particleboard and MDF. FYI: If you truly want to go modern and are willing to pay $2,000 a cabinet (what these "lower end" ones average), then do yourself a favor and go with solid stainless steel - they'll last forever. It's mostly custom (outdoor kitchens), but many offer interior options with colorful non-stainless doors. St. Charles is powdercoated steel (you cannot paint / powdercoat stainless). Personally, because I know the costs of the raw materials and I can build, do everything myself, I know that ALL cabinets are a major rip-off - the cheap ones are CRAP and not worth the money / time to install something that won't last, and the high-end ones have exhorbitant markups (mostly sales/ design, less actual manufacturing) built-in that is well into the hundreds per hour. The only reason I don't want to build my own cabinets is because I don't have a dedicated woodshop and I've never worked with Blum glides (very technical) and I actually want my cabinets to function and last at least 50 years. Therefore I am looking into having my bases truly CUSTOM (to my exact specs) built and I'll probably build the uppers myself. For example, I need a custom 14-15" deep base 4-drawer cab for my dishes that is 24" wide and 39" high with 12" Blum Blumotion undermount full-extension soft-close glides, solid 3/4" maple dovetailed drawer sides, 1/2" plywood drawer bottoms. The 4 drawer boxes ((3)-8"hx21"wx12"d", (1)-3"hx21"wx12"d) should cost no more than $230-300 (that's high - I'm trying to find a boxmaker willing to do dovetails and the 1/2" bottoms). 3 solid maple (not plywood) 10" x 24" slab drawer fronts should cost about $60, and one 5" x 24" maple slab front should cost about $15. Then I need the cabinet made - I want 3/4" plywood sides and solid face frames - the material alone should cost no more than $100-150 (prices keep going up every time I check). That would be $405-525 materials cost - that includes the labor to make the drawer boxes with attached glides and thedrawer fronts. To that I'd add $200 for the labor to build the simple cabinet carcass and install the pre-made drawers and pre-made drawer fronts. That would be $100 per hour. (A real cabinet maker can make a 15"x24"x39" cabinet in an hour easily, then installing / aligning the drawers should take another hour. If it takes longer than that for a professional, they are a joke (read woodweb - many of them do face-frames in 10 minutes). Total MAX for a top-of-the-line ALL WOOD cabinet like this should be no more than $625-750. Then paint and hardware - that I'll do myself - .75 Liters of Fine Paints of Europe Hollandlac Brilliant high gloss $30 and primer $35. Plus sandpaper / brushes (have those) = $75. 4 Mid-Mod knobs ~ $40. All-in-all, the cabinet should come in well less than $1,000. Heck, at that rate, based on savings compared to the cabinets listed here, I can buy a good paint sprayer. Even if this was a full-depth 24" cabinet it would only cost about $150 more in materials (longer glides, longer cab sides and deeper drawer boxes - all other dimensions would be the same). It actually costs a lot more per square foot to build a small cabinet like I need, but I have no choice....See MoreDoes 'Low-E' have to = tinted glass?
Comments (138)@WoW Washington That makes sense. I went to your website and couldn't find a list of brands you sell. I'm looking for aluminum framed sliding windows with narrow sightlines. I'm aware of the uber luxury windows by Vitrocsa, Styline, and Skyframe, and their frames are about 1" thick. Gorgeous. But of course, the prices are as much as my entire home cost. I'm wondering if there's a narrow frame out there, maybe 2" thick, from a more economical standpoint. Milgard and Andersen are thicker than that. What brands do you sell on your site that have the narrowest frames, could you share? It's funny because I live in a old, modest beach house in Florida that JUST SO HAPPENS to have come with super narrow 1.5" frames. Even on my 6' x 5' sliding window. The frame is just 1.5" thick. Love it! But the company went out of buisness....See MoreMarvin Windows vs Hurd/Sierra Pacific Windows - which is better?
Comments (75)Moisture between the glass would not be caused by poor installation. Rather, it would be caused by a defective manufacturing issue or due to some type of unusual situation where the normal wear was affected. For instance, extreme variations in temperature due to orientation or something going on regarding the interior of your home. I design and specify windows for homes in Florida almost all of them on the water or close by. Sierra Pacific offers a 30 year warranty on its 2605 finish and 20 year warranty on its patented Coreguard wood treatment and I would consider those windows. Andersen performs well too but they reduce their 20 year warranty to 10 years when on the coast. In my 40 year career, I have had great success with Andersen and SP and would run away from Pella if you are looking for an aluminum clad wood window. Just my opinion based on more than a hundred installations....See MoreWindows on Washington Ltd
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