i agree .... on repotting... i would have done it a few weeks back ... but what i dont know.. is if you can do it.. without aborting the fruit ... also... think long and hard about what cures you use in soil ... if you plan on eating the fruit ... many things to ponder.. and i would also defer to the citrus peeps ... but one thing for sure .... WATERING IS NEVER A SCHEDULE thing ... you water when it needs water.. and most trees like the media to nearly dry before you water again ... insert finger and find out.. or learn to do it by weight of pot ... get this.. the thing that happens.. when the media doesnt dry enough.. is you get weird bugs living in the media.... and that might be right where you are right now ... so though you think the issue is the media... the root cause.. might be your watering .... [there is almost a root pun there] i wish you luck ... ken ps: now the real .. next question is... have you ever grown a tree indoors???? .... it might be a wild ride ... especially if you are up north.. in the great white north... and have a forced air furnace ... and that again.. is where watering might become a nightmare ... besides indoor humidity issues in winter .... one thing for sure.. your outdoor summer watering schedule.. will be near useless indoors .... this is where it gets real hard.. if you havent figured that out yet.. lol ....

That fruit condition is most commonly caused by broad mite damage when the fruits were very small; they are most likely gone now, as they usually attack when the new leaf growth is very small. Mites especially like conditions that are dry and dirty (dusty); a good spraying with water once a week goes a long way to controlling mites; but when you have an infestation, there are sprays you can use to help. You will need a 10X loupe to see these mites; look on the underside of the leaf. Signs you have mites on new growth usually include crinkled edges of the leaf.

I am sorry you used the advice of the Home Depot "experts". Here is a quote from Al Tapla who developed the 5-1-1 mix: I can say that I haven't actually used cedar bark/mulch to grow in, so I can't comment on the practice directly or from actual experience, but I can say that because the tannins, as well as terpenoid and phenolic compounds cedar is rich in are known to be allelopathic (inhibit growth) to many other plants, I have discounted the likelihood that it would be a suitable choice for me. :-(

I take it that your tree is planted in ground. I am not sure what to do. You can dig it up, remove soil from the root ball an put it in a pot but that would stress it more. You can dig a trench around the root ball in hopes that that would help to dry it out some. Do you have clay under your top soil? Anyone else have any ideas?