Take the water globe out and throw it away. They are a detrimental gimmick and not intended to actually keep plants alive (in theory, yes but not in practice).

It'll probably want to dry out for a while after you remove the globe.

Shoot. And here I was thinking it would improve my watering abilities ... I removed the water globe earlier today, hoping that would be the problem VS having to repot it again (Which was a real pain the first time around).

Any ideas on the vine?

I think the roots were drowning and once you let it dry, your vine will be fine.

You can cut off the part that has the leaves missing and it'll cause the vine to push new vines out of dormant buds.

Does the pot you have it in have a drainage hole? It looks like it's affixed to a tray below with no way to remove it?

What is the right way to cut off the part with the missing leaves?

The tray is fixed to the pot, but it does have a drainage hole and they left a "hole" in the glaze to allow that water to collect in the tray.

Let me get this out of the way: I hate those pots (they look good but set plant owners up for failure).

For the future, whenever you water, you'll need to tip the pot so it can drain as well as pouring out any other water that accumulates after you're done draining the pot.

As for cutting the vine, what do you mean "how to cut the vine"? I'm not understanding what exactly it is that you're not clear on. Can you be more specific what you mean by that? I normally use scissors but sometimes a box cutter.

I mean, is there a specific place on the vine I should be cutting? Right after the last leaf?

Come to think of it, I dont know if you'll be able to get the pot to dry out properly after using that globe. If there was a hole you could access, you could stick some papertowel or newspaper against the drainage holes to sop up the excess fluid by capillary action but with the hole obscured you won't be able to do that.

Why wouldn't it dry out properly?

I normally cut about 2 inches after the node.

Keep watching it and if you see further decline, you will probably have to repot it just to prevent it from drowning.

It won't be able to dry out properly because the way the globes work is by super saturating the soil at the bottom of the pot. This means it holds more water than is typically held in the pot with regular watering practice and doesn't allow oxygen into the mix (which is absolutely necessary for roots to live)

Also, the gap beneath the pot doesn't allow much air circulation so the water will sit in the bottom of the pot, stagnating and becoming anaerobic and this causes root death. (That's what you're seeing with your new leaves withering away on the vine).

If you do end up having to repot it, I'd like to ask what you use to pot it up? Miracle grow? Do you add anything to it? Perlite or pumice or anything? May as well cover all our bases so you dont have to do it again.

Here's a link describing perched water. I hope this will better explain the water table in the pots and help give you a better understanding of the physics of container gardening. If you have any questions please ask. None of us know until we are taught and there's no shame in learning. https://www.gardenweb.com/discussions/4866899/using-ballast-to-combat-excess-water-retention?n=1

Is it too soon to repot it? I feel horrible about what I've done to my poor pothos lol.

I can get another pot--with a drainage hole and the tray not attached. I thought as long as it could drain, I'd be fine.

I have the miracle grow moisture control potting soil.

Oh, and it's moisture control? That's even more water retentive! Those advertising people are certainly earning their keep!

It is not too early to repot. Pothos are tough and yours doesn't look like it's in dire straights at the current moment.

Are you able to source pumice locally or large size perlite? I purchase my perlite at the local organic gardening/ hydroponic shop, size 2. Try to avoid Miracle Grow brand perlite as it is mostly fines and you'll end up throwing away more than half of the bag you buy.

That style pot will work if you use a perlite/pumice heavy mix and are very careful not to let any water stay in the tray but it will be much easier in a pot with an unobstructed hole. Do you have a drill with a masonry bit? You can drill holes in the saucer!

Since what you have is the moisture control formula, you'll want 75% to be perlite or pumice (you could also mix granite grit and perlite to make up this part but I dont want to send you on a scavenger hunt more than you already are. I'd you have the money, you can buy a cheap cacti and succulent potting mix and mix that with 50% perlite.

And the perlite/pumice basically makes sure the water drains and the roots have air, right?

I can check my local nurseries to see if they have perlite size 2.

Mix the petite thruout the soil to make a 75/25 mixture, correct?

Yes, ma'am, that is correct.

I'd you live on the west coast, the nurseries would probably carry pumice (a luxury!)

It works by not holding as much water, increasing drainage and airflow throughout the pot. That other link I edited into one of my posts (you may not have seen it) explains the dynamics of water and soil and containers much better than I could try to duplicate here. It's really good information and can help one's thumb become greener overall.

Best of luck to you and your plant!

Unfortunately, I'm in the Midwest and we are right at the very beginning of our growing season (though you wouldn't have been able to tell by the mini blizzard we had this morning!). Perlite it will probably have to be.

I did see your link and have read through both articles referencing using a ballast and other tricks to combat water retention, but I'm afraid it's whooshing right over my head. Will I have a problem with perched water if I do the potting mixture you recommended?

Do you also happen to have any links about pruning? I see it mentioned for when plants get "leggy", but I don't know what leggy looks like/means or how exactly you prune.

And I really appreciate your time and advice, answering all my (probably dumb) questions! I can't stress how much of a plant person I am not, but this pothos has become very special to me, and I want it to get back to thriving. I'm hopeful with your advice, this will just be a minor hiccup!

Your plant is beautiful. It will survive and grow. The pot is fine. Pick off the yellowed leaves. Cut the vine off at the base of the plant OR down to where the leaves are on the vine.

Let the soil dry out a bit. Water when the soil feels dry an inch down with your finger.

Pour the excess water out of the saucer after watering.

You'll be fine.

You can also use a wooden chopstick or dowel to test moisture levels. Insert it all the way down into the pot (don't be afraid of breaking roots) and leave it for around 10 minutes. Inspect it after taking it out:

If it's dirty/stained wet, then withhold water

If it's dry/clean, then give it a drink.

I'm sure your plant will do just fine :)

Respectfully, one doesn't need to wait to check the dowel / chopstick for moisture. Don't know where this business of waiting started, it's unnecessary. Just giving it one minute is fine. What does matter is that one inserts the stick ALL the way down to the bottom as it's the bottom most soil one is checking.

The suggestion of checking the soil for moisture an inch down into the mix ignores the state of the bottom most soil which is key. IMO this can lead to overwatering, by never allowing the bottom most soil to dry, thereby depriving the roots of oxygen.

Karen I believe that came from people who are testing substrates like coarse bark/perlite/large charcoal such as for orchids. Waiting is unneccesary for most potting media in typical houseplant containers.

I also concur about checking the very bottom of the pot for moisture. That is where the perched water would exist, after all!

Several items:

1. No you don't need to "throw away" the water globe. In some circumstances it could still be useful. Besides, you can always use it as a decoration if it is one of the colorful ones.

2. As others said, the water globe in conjunction with the "Moisture control" was major overkill for the water needs of the pothos.

3. Definitely repot now not later. With soil that is in all likelihood waterlogged, your plant is far better off getting repotted now than waiting for the soil to dry out. Waiting could result in rot developing.

4. It is not necessarily necessary to cut the stem. If the stem entering the ground is still green and not rotted, leave the vine attached to that portion. When you repot, instead, coil the vines so that the lower 6" or so closest to the media are laid on the media with the root nodes in contact with the media. You can lightlly bury those sections and/or use some suitable weighted rocks to keep those sections pressed against the soil. This will increase the roots the vines can make and may even later give rise to new vine offshoots from those coiled sections.

This plant looks relatively healthy to me. The few yellow leaves should just be removed and then I would keep doing what you have been. Pothos discards old leaves, and they always yellow first. It's a nice plant. If it is putting out yellow leaves constantly I would be concerned. Just a few, now and then, is normal.

An update:

I went ahead and repotted my plant, and it was a good thing I did because, as suspected, there was way too much moisture being held at the bottom even after a week and a half-ish of no water. It was still very moist and humid when I repotted it last night--and there were two or three roots that had rotted. I once again cleared out the root ball, rinsed off the soil from the roots, but it seemed as if the root ball was mostly okay except for those roots that had rotted.

Thanks again for all your advice!

I know im late and hopefully you see this. I was In the same exact predicament so repotted, cutting off roots that were rotted the. Made a mix of moisture control mix(way less then normal) cactus mix(mostly) and perlite!

Im wondering how did your plant baby turn out?