Angled Range: Yes or No
Angie Smith
6 years ago
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palimpsest
6 years agoAngie Smith
6 years agoRelated Discussions
KitchenAid range hoods yes? or run away?
Comments (1)I ended up not buying the KA vent hood. I bought one from Overstock instead. It was slightly more expensive, but at least I know I can return it if it has a problem....See MoreAngled range hoods / hoods that are not monolithic?
Comments (12)The disadvantage to all these goodlooking hoods is that they don't capture air. The hot air rising from the cooking area. Consider capturing air. And doing so in a way that increases your impression of space. We also have low ceilings (94.5 inches) in a galley kitchen and wanted a wall hood that would not feel massive / use a lot of the visual space. I'll use your thread to introduce my solution, and at some other time I'll put it all into a new thread. It's a small space, landlocked. We figured we'd make it feel big and open by not having any upper cabinets above one of the two counters --- just backsplash and open space above it, using a horizontal mirror on the wall to increase light from the adjacent space and that window about eight feet away. We removed most of the dividing wall between the kitchen and the adjoining windowed area. Above the cooking surface we felt we needed a structure that could hold the slide-out hood we would design. Reading arbordomus' thread from last January gave us both this idea and the other idea described so far, i.e. increasing visual effect by having something attractive over that other counter. Both a technically valid hood solution that took the space it needed, and an over-the-sink solution, light and airy. For the hood wall, a basic low-cost customizable solution was a wall of three 30.375" high Ikea Akurum boxes, with frosted glass doors and fluorescent light bars inside. Light comes from the horizontal base plate on the bottom: you replace each cabinet's OSB floor with a shelf designed for this purpose. The shelf has lighting in it. Then I did the same with each cabinet's top panel, and got more light. Then I added extra fluorescent bars with warm light bulbs to counteract the cold sameness of the IKEA fluorescent light shelving; I put these behind the cabinets, after first pushing the cabinets out from the wall (using spacers) and removing the cabinets' false backing. It's great to have two kinds of fluorescent lighting: a linear sum of white lights. The impact of this white light is WAY more appealing than either one all by itself. It's white light with increased "complexity". The fan is an inline FG6 from fantech.net. It's suspended from the ceiling. Neoprene rings prevents the fan's normal hum or vibration from going straight into the wall of the duct and traveling down the duct. (It's so quiet it probably wouldn't need the neoprene.) The fan is eleven inches in diameter. Eleven inches is available when I install the wall cabinets at 53" height -- and that happens to be pretty much at the "industry" norm of 54" height. In your case you could go with the 15" Akurum wall cabinet and save a lot of money. The fan has a six inch duct. I had the duct turn down and change shape to fit into my wall's stud cavity. A standard duct adaptor / transition piece, readily available in a large hardware store, turns the duct ninety degrees downwards and changes the 6" round duct into a 3.25" deep by X" wide rectangular duct. Here is where I had a guttermaking shop make another adaptor to turn the corner and transform into a wide wide rectangle for me since my wall studs are 24" O. C. apart. This big rectangular duct comes out of the wall at a 45 degree angle under the wall cabinets,at 47.5"- 53" above floor level. I cut this last angle myself since I had the metal shop just make a long straight rectangle and I didn't know yet what distance it would travel; also, I didn't know the precise height it would be installed at, near the ceiling. The filter fits in here. A wall switch gives me three speeds. I tried a few variable speed controls but they cannot match power factor so they create a little hum at low speed, which is not acceptable to me since low speed operation has to be silent for me to accept it. Summary: Blower motor : invisible since it is in an 11" header box above the wall cabinets. Duct: invisible since it's inside the wall. This increases your options for space / visual effects in your wall cabinets. Filter: under the wall cabinets at the mouth of the in-wall duct. Glass pullout: under the wall cabinets. Remember the goal: to increase the visual impact and the impression of space. A header box overhead holds three recessed 50W 12VDC 12.5 degree spotlights shining onto the counter. I removed the magnetic transformer from these recessed halogen cans, and installed a single electronic transformer instead, because I couldn't stand the hum from the magnetic transformers. Each bulb shines onto the counter while also highlighting the wood frame around the frosted glass panels of the wall cabinets. These glass panels are lifted to open, not pivoted out. The lift mechanism is Blum Aventos HF with 104 degree angle stop. The advantage is space and visual effect (again). The wall cabinet doors slide up and fold up. No opening sideways. If you get 15"h Akurum boxes WITH a lift up hinge, you'll save a lot of money and hassle time compared to my 30"h box. The overhead halogens are in a piece of the header that extends far enough out overhead to put the halogens directly above the front edge of the counter. A portion of the header 7"h extends 11" out from the plane of the wall cabinets. This portion was built in a gently curved shape; again to increase the visual impact. When the door panels are lifted up, the halogen light shines through the frosted glass to the counter below. - So far so good. Next step is to finish making the filter (baffle or mesh) and the official sneeze-guard / canopy / grease surface. I got this far by taking my time, so stay tuned and read my next post about this, in six months from now. The filter could be baffle or mesh or both combined. I have stainless steel that I can cut to any shape, and take to have welded together. As sneeze-guard / canopy / grease surface, I have a clear, not frosted, tempered glass plate that I intend to slide out and tilt down on a slight angle. The underside of the wall cabinets will hold the supports for the slider mechanism. Note that this is already made of tempered glass -- but in addition to this I intend to use more glass to make the whole air capture area even more fireproof, cleanable and clean looking. On the wall, I'll cover the drywall with perhaps one entire piece of glass, or epoxy grouted glass tiles, perhaps with some mirror pieces in there. 53" above floor is below-eye level. A glass pullout slider puts the airstopping canopy's front piece at a sneezeguard height and angle. Making it be able to tilt downwards too, solves a number of air flow problems common to ALL the kitchen exhaust fans we see in the market today. Consider how to stop your grease-speck laden air from rising and escaping the capture area. Solving this problem with a high-space visual effect will give you both what you want and what you need. h.t.h. -dr...See MoreGarage Door (yes another) Remote control range problem
Comments (12)you drag up a 2 year old thread to tell someone to do something they probably do not know how to do safely? and then on top of that you cannot even talk in words folks will understand? NEVER jsut switch wiring around in a panel unless you know what you are doing. you could throw off a MWBC and cause an overload. you could switch a wire from a GFCI breaker to another circuit and lose GFCI protection as well as cause almost instant nuisance trips. garage outlets should be on GFCI circuits, while many interior circuits are not....See MoreRange angled in a corner???
Comments (68)Edit away Lavendar_Lass...that's what the layouts are for! :-) You're spot on about protecting the Prep & Cooking Zones - the last thing you need is a crowd of people traipsing through those work areas! Beach rentals often have a crowd staying there - so accept that and plan for it. While those zones are protected, others can help (or kibitz) from the two sides of the island not in the main work area. Click on the picture to see it bigger. Zone map: Click on the picture to see it bigger. Hmmm....you can't read the labels - especially the text at the bottom left. Here it is: If you can "steal" space from the LR and you don't mind losing the chair space (in the LR), consider a raised pony wall b/w the kitchen and LR with a counter that's 12" deeper than the pony wall for bar-height (42" tall) seating on the LR side. If you don't want to lose the chair, then just have a raised pony wall with a shallow counter to act as a "pass through" to the LR for snacks, etc. It will give you space for an outlet on the wall and hide any snack "mess" or part of a coffeemaker from the LR. The pony wall won't interfere with the view/light. (Nor will the seats at the counter in the LR.)...See Morecluelessincolorado
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