Add this to my previous: If the glass will be pulled, then work out the scope of work and responsibility ahead of time. In writing. In a perfect world you'd have the glass company come out and remove the glass, then when the repairs are done, they come back out to reset the glass. That'll usually cost $$$. That money does not come out of your pocket. Your tiler can pay for them to do that. He may insist he can do it himself, with the caveat that he is accepting full responsibility for damage to any of the glass panels. And that's where the problems arise. Will he pony up $500 or $2500 for new glass if he shatters a panel? I'd let him have that responsibility only after he gives you a deposit of the $500 or $2500 that the replacement glass would cost. The glass breaks, you have cash on hand for new glass. If the repairs go fine with no damage, he gets the full amount back.

Is the existing curb pitched slightly into the shower? If not, that would probably be the easiest fix. You could even do a mock up prior to doing any work to make sure that the drips flow into the shower. For glass doors, I highly recommend wood framing behind the hinges so the hinge screw threading finds solid purchase. Glass doors are heavy. You want the top hinge well-secured.

As you've discovered, raw brass hardware is not nearly as common as lacquered as it can tarnish during shipment and while on the shelf waiting to be sold. Any fingerprints on the brass from manufacturing or packaging can be points where oxidation can first occur. Fully clean and buffed raw brass will sell, fully tarnished raw brass will sell, but mottled partially tarnished brass? Not so much. But you can search for it by looking for "living finish brass". It's quite easy to strip lacquered brass. Soak it in an acetone (nail polish remover) bath for a few minutes, then lightly scrub with steel or brass wool. Don't use a plastic scrubby, the acetone may dissolve the scrubby.

Is the tile shower floor sitting higher than the bathroom tile or is that an optical illusion? Is there a weather-seal on the bottom of the door panels? Is the door installed plumb and square? What is stopping the doors from sliding into the wall jambs? Brand of door? Who did the install?