Absolutely, the dealer should be providing you with any information you need to obtain a rebate, which was probably a large selling point. I'm not sure what exact specification document(s) they need, but below are links to the product data of the 355CAV and 355AAV furnaces from Bryant with configuration/AFUE ratings. 355CAV (page 8): http://www.docs.hvacpartners.com/idc/groups/public/documents/techlit/pds355cav.060.04.pdf 355AAV (page 9): http://www.docs.hvacpartners.com/idc/groups/public/documents/techlit/pds355a.40.3.pdf You'll have to copy and paste these links into your browser. However, I would still ask your installer for whatever qualifying documents that need to be presented. These are from the manufacturer but may not be what they are looking for precisely.

foam sheathing is a good idea in any climate. here in the south we use 1" to add R-7 to the wall. northern climates have access to 2" foam sheathing (R-14) tape all seams & repair any holes before cladding is installed. cladding foam sheathing your original wall in the wall insulation inside the house sheetrock or whatever you have. the goal is to make wall as airtight as possible. and to add insulation value. even 1/2" R-3.5 would benefit you. http://www.buildingscience.com/documents/insights/bsi-001-the-perfect-wall best of luck

I agree that there is no need to remove the old sheet vinyl. You don't need to be concerned with any difference in height (that someone mentioned above) as one layer of sheet vinyl next to carpet won't amount to much at all. Certainly no difference worth noting. If your current floor does not appear to have any bumps or places that stand out as being uneven, and is a "flat" vinyl, then you should be good. The installer should know to check this out thoroughly - if they are any good. Also, if there is existing moisture damage that you know of, then that part you should take a look at. I had sheet vinyl in my kitchen, and was looking at replacing it with ether new SV, or LVT. I chose LVT, Since I had a nice flat floor, the LVT was to go right over the SV, with embossing leveler applied first. Unfortunately, because of the complete idiot that they sent to do my install, the company had to redo the job. (Yes, they lost money on this job.) They had to pull all the LVT up, and some of the old SV as well. (Which I wound up thinking was somewhat of a good thing, in my own mind, because I was able to see what good shape the sub floor was in.) The embossing leveler is even more important, I think, if you are getting a "smoother" type of sheet vinyl than what you had previously - most of the new stuff does not have the shine of the old, and the newer finishes will more easily show any uneven spots that the old SV. (SV really is a very forgiving floor covering - it's why it has been so popular for so many years, and also why so many people wind up disappointed in their "new" floor coverings that they replace it with.) There should be none of the old SV visible through the compound - make sure you ask them about their experience with this. It really is a skill to smooth out and level this stuff. The first guy that did mine did a piss-poor job on that as well, and at the time, I did not know any better. If for whatever reason, your SV is removed, then lay down a good underlayment like these... https://www.lowes.com/pd/SurePly-1-4-in-Whitewood-Plywood-Application-as-4-X-8/50124674 http://www.robertsconsolidated.com/products/accuply-premium-underlayment/ https://www.traxxcorp.com/products/matrixx-underlayment/ Read through this article for more info on underlayments for vinyl flooring. https://bct.eco.umass.edu/publications/articles/wood-underlayments-for-resilient-flooring/ Best of luck. I completely understand your choice of SV - it is hard to beat for wear value and "waterproofness".

White flannel sheets. I've never thought about or seen white flannel sheets but I'm going to have some by this coming winter!