Well, I'm taking a couple of the black tiles that weren't set back to the store today. If this much pitting is to be expected, they should have disclosed that to me. The sample they had at the store they showed me had no cracks or pits in it whatsoever. So I'll see what they say-- the cracking doesn't go all the way through necessarily, but there are long lines where it obviously isn't a solid surface I'm looking at. Interesting to note that the black tiles in general are "softer" with respect to the tumbling process...

Nails versus screws really does not matter. You need to know if: 1) a waterproofing material (usually 6-mil sheet polyethylene plastic) was put on the walls before the cement board was installed. REASON: Tile and grout are not necessarily waterproof. Water can get through the grout, trust me, and through the cement board. Cement board is not damaged by water, but water can pass through it. When it does get through it you want that wate to hit something waterproof...like ployethylene...and not drywall, which will wet crumble, and fail. If you have no barrier like poly behind the cement board, then you have a code violation. Plain and simple. 2) Same with the half wall. Cement board, tile and grout will not keep water from getting to the framing beneath. You need something more. That wall will rot out. That is a code violation. 3) Will there be a topical waterproofing like RedGard put on the cement board that makes up the niches? If not, you'll be admitting water into those framing bays. Rot. Mold. And yes, without a barrier you have yet another code violation. 4) If you stand on the floor membrane, is it sloped to the drain or is it flat? If flat, you have a code violation. Creating a slope with a layer of mud will give you a preslope, but that still does not cut it. A membrane sitting flat on a subfloor is a code violation. And again, in your very first picture, that flap of membrane that is flapping out in front of your cement board? That needs to be behind the cement board, and the (non-existent?) poly sheeting behind the cement board should lap on top of that membrane. What dies that add up to? Yup, another water intrusion point and yet another code violation. I hope this works out for you, but I'd also use this shower a lot when you move in so any problems with it occur while your homeowners warranty is still in effect. Keep an eye on the curb, on the walls and on the ceiling below for any signs of water damage. ALso keep an eye on the floor tile itself, if it ever starts drying unevenly, that's yet another warning sign. Oh, and using cement board instead of greenboard? That's nothing to be overly proud of either since using greenboard as a tile backer in a shower is also...did you guess...a code violation. Greenboard was prohibited as a tile backer over two years ago. Best, Mongo

When saltillos are properly laid, in a mud bed, they are not easy to remove. 1 - Use a small rotating blade (angle grinder carbide blade) and cut through the grout around the tiles you want to get rid of. 2 - continue using the blade and make criss-cross cuts through the saltillos. Whack the cut tiles from the un-tiled side with a stonemason's chisel and a 2 or 3-lb sledge.

Thanks brickeyee. I know you're a floor guy and assume then that the tile need not be taken back many many feet, as the floor store said, but just remove the ones that are partials? I did get the color of the grout from the builder. It amazes me how unwilling this tile dealer/installer was to even sell me the tile. The sales guy used the phrase "if we're willing to take your job" a couple times ago, was quite uncooperative, said he had to look into it and would get back to me. That was nearly a week ago now. Sigh.