gas line sizing question 3/4 instead of 1/2
Benjamin VanDyke
6 years ago
last modified: 6 years ago
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6 years agoMichelle misses Sophie
6 years agoRelated Discussions
Connecting 1/4' to 1/2' distribution line - hole size for barb?
Comments (2)I may be wrong and I have never tried drilling the holes. But I think that a punched hole will seal better. Use a piece of scrap 1/2 inch and try different size drills....See More3/4 inch vs 1/2 inch copper remodelling
Comments (10)Got a question. My shower has 3 body sprays that never worked right because they were hooked up with the other shower heads and therefore had no pressure. I opened up a part of the wall on the outside to see what I could do. The body sprays have a 1/2" presure balance system hooked up to a regular valve coming from the shower heads. I bought a Moen 1/2" posi valve to hook up to the body sprays and separate from the shower heads. My main is 3/4" branching off to the 1/2" balance system. My question is the 1/2" posi valve has small holes inside for the water, would it benefit me to use a 3/4" posi valve to mix more water or would that just turn down the pressure. I hoped I explained this right. I cannot redo the 1/2" balancing system without taking all the tile and cement board off and really creating a mess. Thanks in advance....See MoreThermostatic shower valve: 1/2' or 3/4' ? & other weird questions
Comments (6)Water service pipe appears to be 3/4". A 3/4" trunk goes to the boiler, and everything else that branches off is 1/2" copper. How do I find out the second question's answer? It's city water... should we call the water utility company tomorrow? From street to house is aprox 50 feet, with the street main higher in elevation by about 10 feet. The water main comes into the "old part" of the one-story ranch house (built 1956) and branches off in old-fashioned trunk-and-branch to the following: kitchen: one sink, one bar sink, one DW, refrigerator ice maker hall bath: tub/shower combo, toilet, lav laundry: front-load washer outdoors: two spigots master bathroom (new, what we're discussing): 60 x 32' soaking tub, shower with regular showerhead plus handheld (two valves), two lav sinks, toilet. basement: 80 gal water heater All fixtures are on the first floor, although we're considering running the supply pipes to the master bath up into the attic and back down. Actual elevation of the house is just a bit above sea level... do you need the real elevation in feet? wisehvac, I believe the PEX we have been using is Zurn. From the big box stores....See MoreGetting new HAVC installed. Should I go with 2 (3ton & 4ton) or 1 5ton
Comments (12)Your situation really doesn't surprise me, if I have seen it once I have seen it a thousand times. While the bedroom / bonus room have low air as you stated the combination of this problem plus no return or thermostat control in those areas just due to where the equipment is placed or the longer run of those ducts can create comfort issues in the heat of summer. When there is light exposed to what the real problem is gives a better ability to offer things that will rectify the issue. In dealing with hot spots a zone system is a higher cost option to rectify the issue for the simple reason a zone system has the ability to better control a system. The caveat if you will is the 'design'... the other thing is architectural limitations of the structure. While some situations in which a zone system is used can reduce equipment costs, that is not it's only function. If rooms are a considerable difference from the equipment that serves it, a zoned system may be the best method to rectify that issue. The other method would be to relocate the equipment to a more central location within the structure so that the ducting to each area is more equal. In a zone system the equipment will cool / heat each zone independently so while location of the equipment is still some what important, not as much as a non-zoned system. A new return added to a hot spot will help, but it may not rectify the issue 100% for the simple reason the thermostat location now can not sense temperature in that area. If you move the thermostat then the problem is merely shifted to a new area outside the reach of the thermostat. This is how a zone system excels. Provided the design is done correctly. While it's true that 2 speed, 5 speed and full on inverter systems excel in a humid climate, that is not the only purpose of those machines. Because of the high utility cost in the location of where this structure is... it is in the interest of this home owner to choose the most efficient equipment they can. If it were me I would go with Inverter system 20 SEER or higher. (5 speed or full inverter variable) If you can't afford both at once or you want to make sure a company is worth their salt, consider awarding a company with the system that has the problem area first. Tell them if they rectify the issue with the trouble spots you will reward them with replacing the other system as well. If you hire them and it goes terribly wrong, hire in another contractor to fix the problems and then you have something to use leverage to get another contractor to take over the maintenance and service of both systems... the contractor who fixes the problem system gets the right to replace the other system. Additionally given the information of those hot spot problems, trying to drop this to total of 5 tons of cooling would be a disaster. For others that happen to read this thread with similar problems I service the Katy, Texas area....See MoreM
6 years agoBenjamin VanDyke
6 years agoBenjamin VanDyke
6 years agoopaone
6 years agoM
6 years agokudzu9
6 years agoThe truth The whole truth
9 months agolast modified: 9 months agoJake The Wonderdog
9 months ago
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