I think you are wise to skip engineered. Probably easier for your floor man, thus the recommendation. I don't have experience with any stain but Duraseal, which we used many years ago on new white oak floors. A med. stain - I don't recall the name of the color - maybe Chestnut? It was beautiful and was absolutely perfect after 9 years (when we moved) and so incredibly easy to care for. White vinegar and water to wash, but it was so smooth that absolutely nothing stuck to it. It was like having formica on the floor. Everything just wiped up or vacuumed up. They put 3 coats of finish on ours. (We did not have dogs, though).

Do some research, but I think I've read about complaints with Bona holding up?

And as far as the floor having character, I consider the floor a background. I don't want too much personality - it's too easy to have it be the "star" when it should be a supporting character.

I think she needs to find a new floor guy.

We had to replace all of our hardwoods after a fire in our 100 year old house. They tried to convince us to do engineered, but I'm like your daughter and think engineered looks fake and cheap. We went with white oak site finished.

Our contractor had put engineered in his house a few years before and tried very hard to get us to do the same. I sent him to our floor guy who really knew what he was talking about and he was convinced. After everything was finished, he sent me an email saying I was right and that he liked our floors better than his.

We used Rubio Monocoat in the colour Pure to get ours to a rich but not dark colour. Rubio isn't for everyone, so look at reviews. We have 2 teenage girls and we are not rough on it, so I can't attest to how it stands up to hard treatment. It also has more of a matte finish. They left us a little in a pot and when the movers scratched the floor, we just wiped it over the scratch and it was gone.

ETA: if she goes with the more traditional stain and poly over top, I really like the colour Early American by Minwax. I've used it on lots of oak and pine antiques that I've refinished, but she should have them do samples of whatever she chooses to make sure it meets her vision. Not an easy mistake to correct if they get it wrong.

Thanks so much. I will pass all of your thoughts along. She called today and is contacting a couple of more companies. I appreciate you taking time to comment.

We had white oak put in and previously had engineered bamboo stained dark. Bamboo has no character, and the oak tons of character-and we did select, which is supposed to be the second clearest of boards (although they're not, that's a story for another day)-I say real hardwoods!

Here is a photo of our White Oak Flooring. It was coated with Tung Oil, but was never stained. See if she likes the "look".

Here is an example of a wide-plank white oak floor that I have admired. It looks elegant and contemporary. I don't know the stain color.

Thanks all. I think she is meeting with two other flooring people to get some other ideas. I know she does not want a dark stain, just trying to decide what products are most reliable. This is a color that she likes.

Idstarr, those floors look fantastic. I will show her. As I am ignorant to this finish, does it need to be sealed and would it hold up to young children and big dogs?

Just to be clear- the bevels come from hardwoods being prefinished, not engineered. You can get solid hardwoods as well as engineered hardwoods prefinished (which will have bevels). Although less common, you can also get engineered floors site finished. These won't have bevels and will be indistinguishable from solid woods floors on looks alone. A small general summary below, which may help your daughter. I'm sure there are exceptions to these statements but by and large this is what you're looking at.

Pre-finished vs Site-finished

Pre-finished: Bevels. A more durable finish. Fewer color/stain options.

Site-finished: No bevels. A less durable finish (doesn't mean it's not a good or good enough finish, it's just not as hard as factory finishes). Virtually unlimited ability to mix stains and find the perfect color.

Solid vs Engineered

Solid: Usually ¾" solid wood. More prone to problems (cupping and gaping) with changes in humidity. Can sand and refinish many times. Can only be installed over a subfloor and not over a concrete foundation, making them not an option in some situations.

Engineered: Has a solid wood "wear layer" that will look indistinguishable from solid wood floors. The thickness of this wear layer, which can vary significantly depending on which engineered floor you choose, determines the number of times the floors can be sanded and refinished (anywhere from zero to maybe 3 times, always fewer times than solid floors). More stable which means less susceptible to problems like cupping or gaping, although still possible. Can be installed over concrete and in other situations where solid hardwoods are not appropriate.

Hope this helps!

We had our oak floors finished with wax instead of poly, and they are easy to maintain and were finished on site. I had a poly finish on my previous floors, and it did not hold up well at all and was very susceptible to damage that was not easily repaired. Waxed floors can be easily refinished.

cac546, so are you saying if she can find 3/4" unfinished white oak engineered floors, they can be finished satisfactorily to withstand a large dog and three little ones without a bevel? She feels the bevel makes the floors look fake and wants the smooth look. Maybe she just hasn't spoken to the right floor guy and can find some engineered floors she likes. Thanks so much for your help.

Lars, we have had poly on our floors for 10 yrs. with no issues. Of course there is just two old people and a small dog. Lol. We do have 6 little ones running around often though. This is one reason I was asking what product might be best if she goes with the unfinished floors as far as stain and sealer. I will mention your suggestion. Thanks so much.