Plant them or throw them away. They may not bloom.

This is about the only brief spell of dormancy you're going to see with them. They'll be putting out roots by the end of July and they are unfazed by heat, drought, and other summery events. 'They like a good baking.' Mostly, they're safer in the ground for insulation because they're not well-coated. If you have a well-drained, not too lushly fed, and sunny spot you could put them there in bulb baskets so you can dig them up in good time. Or replan your planting so that when it's time for the summer annuals you know where to avoid. Another possible is to interplant them with Echeveria and Sedum. They like similar locations and the succulents give interest over the bulb dormancy. Low-prickle Aloes are also good when they have winter flowering. Interesting combination. PS it is also a great time to thin down the inevitable clutch of bulblets so you get a decently glorious show of blue next year.

All hardy bulbs need a period of cooling at temperatures between 35úF - 50úF (2C - 10C) to prepare them for later leaf and flower growth. The refrigerator is an ideal place to store them. (keep them away from fruit in the crisper) You haven't said just in what locale you live so I'll assume its not in the sunny south where bulbs are often given a cooling time before sale. 14 - 15 weeks is the period of cooling. If you store them in the refrigerator for more than 3 weeks, subtract 3 weeks from the required cooling time. Many people find a root cellar (coldcellar) is fine and dandy for cooling bulbs. If not there, then a cool part of the basement should be found where they can remain undisturbed but kept moist in soil. In this inactive time they form roots and should be checked weekly. Do not in any way allow the pots to freeze. At the forcing stage, the pots are brought out of their cool environment into warmth and light. This triggers the formation of leaves and flowers. From the time they are removed from the cool they require about 3 to 4 weeks to bloom. To delay bloom, draw them back from the light and give them less water. DO NOT put them into darkness. To hasten bloom give them more light but watch giving them too much water but do keep them moist throughout the forcing period. If starting about now..late September...early October..can be brought to bloom about Christmas. If you plan on cooling a number of bulbs, you might bring only a few to the warmth and prolong the flowering period. The warmth I speak of should be at 60�F and direct sunlight. Rotate the pots regularly ensuring all parts receive adequate sunlight. After forcing, hardy bulbs cannot be forced again. Some bulbs (daffodils) may be planted in the spring in the garden where, over a span of 2 - 3 years, may bloom again. Tulips and hyacinths should be disposed of in the compost.

Not to worry. I have seen this often, if they are healthy and not forced too quickly, they will be fine. There is often a bit of mould on the outer layer of the bulb; just dust it off and make sure you do not water too often or keep them too warm (or both!). They will be fine. Gradually expose them to light and a bit of warmth, and they will bloom sucessfully.