it's definitely not nutsedge, which has a different and distinctive look. first question to ask yourself:is it the exact same grass as the rest of your lawn? if it is, then extra water or fertilizer in that area is producing extra fast growth. If it's definitely a different plant, then you have a weed grass in there. I've had that. Big mess. Hard to get rid of. Good luck

Grass I hope you don't mind...I reran the spell checker and caps checker, fixed a few commas, and basically left everything else the same. I put it into an HTML format for posting here. Grass, please write to me from my member page. Here's Grass1950's message from the link... Credit and apologies to Texas_Weed for plagiarism and following his lead, but some concepts are just darn good ideas and some facts are, well, facts. What follows is a generic calendar of recommended lawn care practices designed to help you care for a Kentucky Bluegrass (KBG) lawn. Please understand this is generic and time tables may have to be adjusted for you geographical location. With the exception of "organic", the use of the term "fertilizer" means synthetic fertilizer, either slow or fast release will do with the exception of the last fertilizer of the season= urea 46-0-0, which, to my knowledge, is only available as fast release and is applied with that property a priority. March through May Mowing Mow when it first turns green or when you first notice growth as the grass comes out of winter dormancy with the mower set at 2 to 2 1/2 inches. Mowing at his height will encourage KBG's early prolific spring rhizome and spreading ability. Practice mulch mowing, aka grass re-cycling, which means simply leaving grass clippings on your lawn. Grass clippings decompose quickly and can provide 1 percent of the total weight of the clippings in additional nitrogen and potassium and another .4% of the clippings weight in phosphorus. That can be 25% or more of the lawn's fertilizer needs. If prolonged rain or other factors prevent frequent mowing and clippings are too plentiful to leave on the lawn, they can be collected and used as mulch. Fertilization Apply 1 pound of nitrogen per thousand square feet around May 30- June 1st. This will supply nutrient needs of the grass into the heat of summer and allow the grass to store carbs for survival during summer dormancy. Use a complete nitrogen-phosphorus-potassium (N-P-K) turf-grade fertilizer with a 3-l-2, 4-1-2, triple 12 or triple 19 ratios (for example, 15-5-10, 20-5-10. 12-12-12, or 19-19-19). Let a soil test be your guide to select a proper ratio of NPK to adjust for any deficiencies. To determine the amount of product needed to apply 1 pound of' nitrogen per thousand square feet, divide 100 by the first number in the fertilizer ratio. For example, for a 20-5-10 product, divide 100 by 20. The result is 5.0 pounds of product per thousand square feet. Weed Control Apply pre-emergence herbicides to control crabgrass, goose grass, foxtail, etc. by the time the forsythia are in full bloom. Irrigation In many of the areas in which KBG grows best (temperature zones 4,5 and 6), Mother Nature will often take care of the irrigation needs of KBG in the spring; however: water should be present to a soil depth of 4 to 6 inches. Probe with a screwdriver to determine moisture depth. KBG needs a weekly application of about 1 to 1 1/4 inches of water. On sandy soils it often requires more frequent watering, for example, 1/2 inch of water every third day. It may be necessary to irrigate an area for 3 to 5 hours to apply 1 inch of water. (It requires 640 gallons of water to deliver 1 inch of water per thousand square feet.) Because clay soils accept water slowly, irrigate just until runoff occurs, wait 1/2 hour until the water has been absorbed, and then continue irrigating until the desired depth or amount is obtained. Best watering frequency for conservation is determined by looking for temporary darkening- bluish gray color, foot printing, wilted, folded, or curled leaves indicate that it is time to water. Proper irrigation may prevent or reduce pest problems, environmental stress and drought/heat dormancy. Thatch Removal Even if proper water, mowing, and fertilizing techniques are followed thatch can be a problem with KBG. Before thatching, make sure you actually have a thatch problem. Thatch is not detrimental unless it exceeds 1/2 inch. Some thatch accumulation is beneficial as it insulates the roots from heat and helps retain moisture. If needed you may vertically mow or mechanically plug aerate in late March to early May to remove the thatch (layer of un-decayed grass) BEFORE applying a pre-emergent. It is advisable to wait to address thatch until late September- early October or, if overseeding, late August- early September and incorporate de-thatching/aerating with the overseeding. Weed pressure is dramatically less in the fall and the subsequent spring pre-emergent will help prevent weed seed germination. Aerating is not recommended if you have rhizotomatious weeds like poa trivialis or quackgrass--at the very least, those areas should be avoided. June through August Mowing Increase mowing height. If you will be watering regularly (2-3 times a week as needed for 1-1 1/4" of water per week), or in the event of, extended cool and rainy periods during the summer, height should be 3-3 1/2", -the highest height at which the grass blades will stay upright and allow airflow to prevent disease/fungus. Otherwise, mow at the mower's highest level Fertilization If you are able and willing to irrigate throughout the summer, you can apply 1/2 pound of N/1,000 each month throughout the summer. Use a fertilizer with iron content when available. Whether or not you plan to irrigate, you can use organic fertilizers like Milorganite throughout the summer months--Milorganite has iron content which will improve the color and photosynthesis ability of the grass.. Organics will not harm turf during drought and will provide nutrients when conditions are conducive. Irrigation Follow the March through May irrigation guidelines above. If you are not irrigating regularly and allowing the grass to go dormant, you should water 1/2 to 1" every 3 weeks to keep the grass crowns alive so the turf can recover once cooler temps and rain return. Weed Control Apply post-emergence herbicides through-out the growing season as needed to control summer annual and perennial weeds such as crabgrass, clover, knotweed, and spurge. Products like WeedBgone, WBG Max with Crabrass Control and WBG CCO. Similar products with the same AI herbicides usually control several different weeds in a lawn effectively. Be sure the product is labeled for use on KBG. Use Tenacity to control Bentgrass and Poa annua. Apply post emergence herbicides only when weeds are present. Be sure to follow label instructions and note temperature limitations of product if used. Mid August, if you are not overseeding in the fall, apply a pre-emergent to prevent germination of weeds like poa annua and chickweed etc. if they have been present in the yard. Insect Control KBG grass is most susceptible to insect damage from white grubs and billbugs and to a lesser extent to web worms. Check for these insects and control them if necessary. (e.g. Bayer 24hr grub killer) Disease Control Modern cultivars have increased KBG resistance to disease. Proper blending of cultivars and proper cultivation techniques (mowing, fertilization and watering) can dramatically reduce the incidence of disease and/or disease damage. Identify any signs of disease and immediately take appropriate remedial action. If disease has been a reoccurring problem, take appropriate preventive action as and when needed. September through November Mowing Once the dog days of August end and night temperatures are consistently in the 60's, incrementally lower the mowing height to 2-2 1/2" to encourage fall rhizome growth and spreading and to help prevent winter snow mold. Fertilization Once summer temperatures have moderated and the turf has revived (Late August to September 1st) apply 1# of N per 1000 sq ft. of lawn. A balanced NPK is advised such as a triple 12 or 19 to help prepare the lawn for winter dormancy. A second application of N (1/2-1#/k) is recommended October 1st to insure the turf stays green and photosynthesis continues. Once the turf has ceased or dramatically stopped top-growth (mowing is no longer or barely needed), apply 1# N per thousand sq ft. (k) of urea (46-0-0) for winter root growth, carb. storage, early spring green-up, and spring rhizome production. In addition you can apply lime, sulfur, gypsum, etc. if a soil test indicated a deficiency. Irrigation In zones where KBG does well, fall weather should supply sufficient rain. Otherwise, follow the March through May irrigation guidelines.. Thatch, Aerating and Overseeding See March - May above. December through February Build a snowman and enjoy the holidays.

You need a dense enough layer of mulch to prevent those weeds from getting access to the sunlight they need to grow. For some "weeds" a 2 or 3 inch layer of mulch will do that while others need more. At this time of year the winter weeds will not be producing seeds, so that should not be of much concern.

I'm familiar with the Phoenix brick wall yard. Do you or your neighbors have any trees that cast a shadow over your yard? And which direction does the back of the house face? The reason I ask is a friend of mine in Gilbert fought with his sissoo tree trying to grow bermuda for years. He finally went with St Augustine and is very happy. Contrary to what you're thinking, it isn't that hard to keep grass green in Phoenix, even St Augustine. During the heat wave y'all had last August (115 in the shade) he was watering the St Aug once every 4 days. Here's a picture of his back under the sissoo. - taken last March 2015. That's a west wall to the right so from mid morning on his yard is shade. St Aug is a lot easier to care for than bermuda, so you might consider going with that. Tell me about your shade and I'll help you get prepped. I'm not worried about the slope, so that's good. You do not need any more soil, though, so get that out of your mind. You just need to fix the soil you have. That's easier than your plan. Generally grass seed goes down on top of the soil and should not be buried. What you do is press it down either with a heavy roller or with your feet. If you go with bermuda seed, get a mix of Sahara, Princess, and Yukon. First you need to get the soil as settled and level as possible. Get the sprinkler on it and water it deep. Apply at least 1/2 inch all at one time. Put some cat food or tuna cans out and time how long it takes to fill the cans. That's 1 inch. That will be your watering time from now on, so memorize it. My time is 8 hours for my water pressure, hose, and oscillator sprinkler. That's a nice gentle rain. But then I don't water again for at least a week. The soil needs to dry out completely before watering again...but I'm getting ahead of myself. Water the ground until it's pretty wet. Then don't walk on it or you could compact it. Let it dry for a couple days and see where the low spots have developed. If you have a low spot in the center you should pull soil up from a spot that is supposed to be lower into the center to raise it up. There should be a slight crown in the center so the water will drain away from there - but not toward the house. If you need more soil I suggest a relatively coarse, gritty sand. Gritty like aquarium sand with sharp edges, but not nearly that huge of a particle. The bermuda will grow up through the sand just fine, and sand is easy to move around to get it level. Level the soil/sand with a long board and/or a home made drag. Drag it level, water to settle, and reevaluate whether you need more sand for the new low spots. Keep watering every few days to settle the soil. This will also sprout as many weed seeds as you can. Once you have it level it should be the end of this month. Then spray the new weeds with Round Up to kill them. Keep watering to sprout more weeds. A week later spray out the new weeds. Then you're ready to seed. Scatter the seed, walk on it to press it into the surface of the soil. Water 3x per day (breakfast, lunch, and dinner) for just long enough to moisten the soil - not saturate it. It should never be soggy. Do that until you get 80% germination. Then start backing off on watering frequency and going up on the time. We have plenty of time to cover that detail. Note that this is completely different from the plan you came in here with. If you would like me to go through your plan, step by step, and explain why this is different, I can do that. So here's my problem with bermuda, especially for new folks. If you really want it to look good, it needs FULL sun for at least 6 hours per day. This means that the grass that is north, east, or west of a building, brick wall, tree, or shrub will be thin and ugly. You can reseed every year and pull out all the stops, but it won't grow there. Secondly Bermuda is a nitrogen hog. If you want it to look good it needs to be fertilized with a high N fertilizer once a month. Thirdly it needs to be mowed at the mower's lowest setting 2x to 3x per week depending on how fast it's growing. If you have any holes for the mower wheels to fall into, it will scalp the grass. The good thing about bermuda is that if you stop watering it for 6 months, it will come back with the first rain. St Augustine, on the other hand, only needs fertilizer 3x per year, mowing at the highest setting every other week, and is shade tolerant. It is a little more expensive to get started because it does not come as a seed. It will die in Phoenix if you don't water it for a month in 115 degree temps. But it should go 3 weeks and recover with water. This is probably generating lots of questions. I'm happy to explain anything I've said. I'll addressing proper watering or you can search this forum for "deep and infrequent".