I have the same problem, but I can't wiggle it AT ALL. I've run a small crowbar all around the space between the dishwasher and the cabinets/countertop, nothing seems to be holding it in place. I've turned the front feet so that they are actually off the floor completely by a good half inch. (flooring was installed up to the unit, so lifting it up and over the flooring is job #2.) Water line disconnected, lots of play in drain line, wires disconnected, upper two screws attaching it to the countertop removed, no glue holding it to the countertop (I saw installation), no side screws (I saw the two side screw covers, no screws coming out). At this point I'm going back to the suggestion about the tile not going all the way back, but in my case I think there might be a hole in the floor and one of the back feet is on the edge or otherwise stuck. That's all I can come up with. I'm going to try to find my crowbar, but this is looking harder and harder, especially with the flooring lip I'm going to have to contend with. NO WIGGLE OF ANY KIND even though I can run a small flat crowbar all the way around and the front feet aren't even touching the floor. It won't tilt, jiggle, move backwards or frontwards, or anything. At least I was able to find the water line and shut it off, which somehow fed into the basement and the shutoff valve was behind some insulation in the basement ceiling. I started this project by turning off the water to the house, thinking I'd be going without water for maybe two hours at the most . . .

Hi Roulie, I was looking at the beautiful blue kitchens in your thread about painting your cabs, and went looking for this thread for more pictures and info about your kitchen. (I would try the SW Naval from Deb's island on one of your trial boards, it just rocks!) I have an opinion about the hole in your counter. I love the idea of using stainless, and if the Jenn-aire that was removed is the griddle next to the big Garland, I would suggest that you have someone come and fabricate a stainless steel cover that simply butts up to the range and covers the whole counter top surface, front overhang and all, for the length of counter top hole in the wood. That will give you a bulletproof landing spot for messy cooking. YOU may not need it, but you have at least one young person, and a messy spill on your butcher block with a stainless steel insert in the hole in the wood will be a lot harder to clean up than on a seamless sheet of steel. Have the fabricator match the finish as much as possible to that of the Garland, and it may not seem so much like another added texture in the room. It also occurred to me, looking at the photo, that there does not seem to be a range hood. Is that a problem for you, or do you not put a lot of grease into the air when you cook? A metal fabricator could fashion one to fit below that cabinet, and you could put the guts in the cab. Just something to think about if you have someone out to see about the hole in the counter. I went looking for your thread about your butcher block counter refinishing. The problem with wood near your sink area made me think of old porcelain 1920s to 1930s sinks as a solution. In my first search result I saw the one linked below, and it fit the one in my mind's eye perfectly. Something like this will better protect that beautiful refinished counter of yours. It prevents any more deterioration where the wood meets the back splash, as well, and does not go very far up the wall. Check out the link below. I think I am interested in your project because it reminds me of my own. I refinished a used bead board kitchen almost three years ago.I have an island top that is 25 years old sitting in my garage that is very similar to your butcher block. I did not use it when I bought it with my Green Demolition kitchen. I refinished my beaded-board oak cabinets from GD by hand sanding and re-staining them with a creamy oil-based stain that my local Sherwin Williams mixed up for me. I could not get a "pickled" stain in water-base. My routed-out lines were far closer together than yours, but you have a LOT of cabs to do, too. If I had to do it again, I think I might paint. I do not have tons of wood grain around like you do, and really like the grain peeking through, so staining was a good choice for me at the time. My problem was in getting the stain to stick to end grain. All my rounded edges exposed me to end grain, but I did not realize that this was my problem at the time. Stain did not stick well on the perimeter of all of my 34 doors and 20 drawers, and I have a rubbed-through look in places. I also have a few pieces that are a different color. Don't know if it was a stirring problem, a real color difference in the first stain can, or what. By the time I was done, I just did not want to know! Part of my problem is that I have asthma and had to wear terrible face masks to keep the VOCs out of my lungs. I had to work outside because of the fumes, too. In the steamy heat of the summer of 2010, I had little patience for problems and just let the color differences get by me. I just wanted it DONE. If you can paint with latex, it is a lot less bother and mess than what I went through! Oil-based stains are still the most common with wood. Here is a picture of my doors before I refinished them. If you want to see my kitchen (minus the missing cab door that we found in the carpenter's shop 6 months after I finished staining everything else), you can go to my website and see it at www.pbase.com/nancyb/image/127230055 Here is Here is a link that might be useful:

More great feedback that is appreciated! The problem with this kitchen is that it's very long and narrow. Below is a crude plan of the kitchen, showing the distances. Because of width issues, it really didn't seem like an island was possible - particularly since the back door of the house (off the back pantry) is the main egress in/out of the house (because of a rear driveway), and we didn't want to create an obstacle course. The brick box across from the sink is a chimney, and the rectangle to the right of that is a shallow set of upper/lower cabinets & drawers with a countertop. Originally, we thought we'd just do a corner banquet for seating, but then got inspired to do the peninsula by stuff we saw online... Going with the peninsula would give us needed continuous counter space, and because the dining room is immediately adjacent to the kitchen we figured we could get by with the stools setup (ditch the kitchen table). Here's the inspirational photos we found: Bmorepanic, yeah, it will be a tight squeeze to get in & out of the seating area for the peninusla... there is 2.5 feet of clearance. We were told that is enough by another designer. We were also originally thinking about relocating that bathroom and opening the kitchen, but that'd be pricy and we'd gain more length, rather than width (what we really need).

I'm thinking of sort of recreating my old kitchen in the new house but I can't figure out the measurements. In my old kitchen I had a corner cabinet, sink, filler cabinet, dishwasher, French door fridge and a wall pantry cabinet on 13 foot wall shown in the picture and the floor plan. But when I recreate it on paper I don't have space for the filler.  Corner cabinet 3 Sink 3 Dishwasher 2 Fridge 3 Wall cabinet 2 These already make 13 feet. Can anybody help me figure out how to put a one foot filler cabinet between the dishwasher and the sink?