i used to do roses... and all the spraying was one of the reasons i gave them up ... that and moving to an all sand property.. roses dont like sand ... lol ... since i fixated on both .... i would say.. the biggest difference.. is that trees do NOT need the heavy feeding that roses do .. and frankly.. even in my barren sand.. i NEVER fert trees... these are conifers.. but conifers are a subset of trees... and trees... once fully established... should be free range... never really needing anything ... bugs/disease aside .. but what is imperative.. is getting them ESTABLISHED ... after a transplant .. and that means getting the roots settled in and working... and that is accomplished thru deep watering.. thru the whole root mass planted.. and near drying in between ... conifers.. have a lot of needles.. to maintain..while repairing the insult ... i consider all trees... free range by year 3 ... with onoly watering in year 2.. in drought... presuming proper mulching ... i asked about potted.. because filed dug BB.. ball and burlap.. has its own set of problems.. as in cutting off too many roots ... potted stock.. on the other hand.. has its own problems of circling roots ... of which there are many old posts ... why one out of 6 failed.. who knows.. i am sure you are gardener enough.. that they should have all taken... but one didnt.. but 5 did .. so what ... it was.. most likely a stock issue... whatever it may have been ... i cant grow these.. but have not heard great things about them.. so i would definitely.. find other things.. for replacement ... i wish you luck ken

I've asked several arborist as well as UH via Urban Garden help line. Thats the woman arborist who said all of her trees died from the beetle roaches. They all pretty much said to keep area free of debris. Some of them suggested spraying the tree with water to get the bugs off but seriously the trees are 35-40 feet tall so using any type of spray would only go up 5-6 feet. No one can give me good suggestions to rid the trees of these buggers. I've used Spectracide on the lawn and under the trees because the bugs have been coming into the house for almost a year now and driving us crazy! It seems to have worked since we're seeing less bugs but more than likely most all of our trees will die eventually. Oh well.

I would think it would depend upon how large the tree is; how large the container is; and what material the container is made of. Hopefully, your container is not terra cotta or ceramic as both of those are cooking utensil materials. If your container is wood, foam or concrete, these insulate the soil/root ball much more efficiently than many other materials. Other, less efficient insulators can be improved by wrapping their interiors with either several layers of bubble wrap or thin sheets of styro foam. You'll effectively be insulating them as you do your roof and house walls, creating an "ice chest" out of them. The air layers created by the wrapping material will help prevent the heat transfer from the pot sides to the soil ball and roots. How root bound the tree is plays a significant part, too. The more soil you have between the roots and pot sides, the better the crown and roots of the tree are insulated. Soil can be an excellent insulator, but root material pressed right against the pot interior absorb the heat from the pot material, literally cooking them. The larger the pot, the longer it takes for that heat to be transmitted all the way through the soil ball, too. I think when the highest heat hits, if you can shade the pot to prevent it from cooking from direct sun, the tree should make it OK with appropriate water. I would definitely wash the upper parts of it when I water to rinse out the dust and debris and reduce any chances of spider mites which can stress the tree, reducing its chances. Water on the foliage and limbs can also help rehydrate the plant. I can't suggest how frequently you should water nor rinse out the tree, but I would do it in the evening so chances of being burned by sun are reduced. Once the worst of the heat passes, as long as the potted tree seems fine where it's grown, you should be able to move it back to its former position. I wouldn't shade the foliage of the tree. Though it will tolerate quite a bit of shade, growing much more slowly in reduced light, it will alter the ability to tolerate more intense, direct sun, so you'll need to gradually harden it off to the hotter, brighter sun. That can be more difficult than just shading the pot from the direct sun, and may easily result in foliage burn. Though your conditions are significantly more severe than mine here in Los Angeles, the issue of overheating the potted root ball and gradually acclimating shaded foliage to brighter, more direct sun, are common in any hotter area. I hope it helps. Kim

Are these trees mulched with stone? The one on the left looks as though it was windswept, sideways. If that occured, it may have moved the roots of this tree such as to affect water absorption. Had you checked the root status? I'd probably have staked these, at least for the first year. Do you think that chlorine from the pool was transferred near this (affected) tree? You might try feeding it with a tree stake and resetting it in place, staking if needed. To be absolutely certain, I'd recommend contacting a nurseryman for expert opinion.