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8 years ago
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- 8 years ago
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Have You Checked Out Your Dryer Lint Filter & Vent? Check Out My
Comments (20)Been there, done that...lint is such a HUGE annoyance to my life. We're in a 2nd floor condo where the dryer vent ducting goes to the roof through the attic over 20 feet and several elbows. My husband bought the condo years before we met, and the ducting was clogged after several years. At the time, he decided to disconnect the vent from the duct. The resulting moisture did some damage to the cabinetry (swelling of the particle board, even under layers of oil-based paint). Soon after we married, he decided we needed to fix the problem correctly. He went up into the attic and disassembled the ducting, brought it outside, and blew it out with his air compressor. I pushed some cleaning tool through it as well. We can't be doing this regularly! I mean preferably, never again! So, I had him put a filter -- a gallon paint strainer -- over the dryer vent where it connects to the machine. This clogs every month or so, we pull the machine out, disconnect the vent, clean the strainer, and put it back. This is still an annoying chore, but not the nightmare of dealing with the whole duct run. My husband had a cool idea, that what we need to do is sew a new, longer strainer that tapers to a skinny point, so that even when it clogs at the point, there can still be air flowing past the clogged strainer, and we should be able to go longer between cleanings. We got a new dryer last summer, and pulled the ducting out of the attic to clean it -- but it was already clean as a whistle. So, our secondary filter system has kept the duct run clean for 9 years. I found you can buy secondary lint traps with a door that opens to clean them out, but we don't have room to install the box in our laundry room, and I don't think it would work any better or be easier to clean than our homemade filter. When I redo the floor, I plan to put magic slider thingies under the dryer feet to make it easier to move in and out, plus I won't want to gouge my new floor. I have researched other solutions. People claim that solid metal vent will maintain better airflow than pleated, but I think it will still clog because we need 2 90-degree elbows to get it connected to the duct in the wall. And if it clogs, how do we pull out the machine with a non-stretching vent? If we could move the duct in the wall to match the dryer vent outlet, that would eliminate 2 elbows and would probably help... I also found you can install a secondary fan in the ducting near the exit, increasing the airspeed in long ducts so the lint won't clog. They cost $150-200, but if I never had to clean out the duct run or pull out the dryer to clean my makeshift secondary lint trap ever again, it would be well worth it. I also think that our ducting is leaky somewhere, because rooms on the other side of the wall (our master bath) get crusted with lint all the time. Finding and sealing those leaks would probably improve airspeed some, plus save me tons of work cleaning the lint all the time. I think the additional fan is the way to go. In 2 other areas where we replaced an ineffective low-cfm cheap fan with a high-cfm good one, like the hood over our cooktop, it made an amazing difference, night and day. Here is a link that might be useful: example of dryer duct fan...See MorePrice check and reality check
Comments (9)Seems high at first glance but there's a lot we don't know. How many pumps and what type? I think I remember a post or two discussing the kind of pump set-up needed to keep your negative edge free and clear of debris. Any automation for controls? What about a saltwater chlorinator? Lights...how many and what kind? Any deck jets? What about special tile? Anything beyond a standard one row of 6" tile? Will the excavation be especially difficult where you live? Are fencing, electrical, and/or other services included? And I could go on with even more questions! I'm sure some PBs on this forum can give you an idea of how much prices have gone up in 8 years on various parts of pool construction to help you with that part of the evaluation. In my own case, our real estate agent gave us some ballpark figures for various types of pools when we were househunting. Turns out her estimates were based on info from several years past and were way, way, WAY off from then-current pricing. Perhaps many answers to my questions, and others, are listed on the PB's "pool as drawn" or on a sample contract, but we can't see that so it limits any advice you might receive. The more info you can list, the better able people will be to help you evaluate. Good luck....See MoreCarpet: check, island cooktop: check, inadequate ventilation: check
Comments (13)The hundred percent tile does not bother me at all. I worked on a duplex project and the mother's unit had a bath that was fully tiled all around and she asked if the kitchen could be fully tiled (except for the ceiling) with the cabinets set on tiled plinths with a drain in the floor, like it was a giant shower. She wanted to be able to throw buckets of water around to clean it. It was not allowed. She was not born in America which may have had something to do with it. (?)...See MoreARDEN LUME pendant layouts: checks before moving the ceiling box
Comments (0)Before moving a ceiling box for island pendants, I'd want to know whether the problem is the mounting position, the fixture's size, or the view from the seating area. Those can look like the same problem in a photo. We're ARDEN LUME, a lighting retailer. I'm using a hypothetical layout to compare the checks that come before a relocation. Take a hypothetical rectangular island with a seating overhang on one side. If that overhang changes the countertop's center relative to the cabinets, which center should guide the pendant layout? I'd begin with the usable counter and where people sit, then check the whole composition from the adjoining room. I wouldn't let the existing ceiling point make that decision by itself. My next check would be a plan showing the counter edges, sink, stools and ceiling points, followed by a side view with the proposed fixture outlines. I'd compare a change in fixture size with a change in position before recommending ceiling work. Both deserve a look; neither is automatically the answer. I'd also ask the installer what a relocation would involve, including support and the selected fixture's mounting requirements. A drawing can show where we'd like the light, but it can't establish what's feasible inside that ceiling. For designers and homeowners who've weighed this choice, what observation changed your mind: the seated sightline, the counter's usable area, or the scope of the ceiling work? I'm interested in the check that made the decision clearer, even if the final answer was to keep the existing location....See More- 8 years ago
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