Kitchen Reno....Countertops or Cabinets first?
6 years ago
last modified: 6 years ago
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what goes in first ? wood floor or kitchen cabinets ?
Comments (16)If you do floors first - 1. The HW needs to acclimate to the environment in which it will be installed - ck flooring forum, maybe 5-7 days 2. You would put flooring under all of the above - you can't have it under the cabs and not dw - it will throw everything out of level for one. It would be self defeating to not run it under - that is one of the reasons for running it first - much easier to lay the flooring - There are potentials for leaks in every kitchen w/every type of flooring - there is no bullet proof flooring. Even if it were not under the DW & that leaked it would still leak to the surrounding areas - even tiled floors have flaws related to leaks - grout is not waterproof and water will leech in btwn tiles & start growing some nasty mold in btwn the sub floor & tile (have you seen bathrooms gutted?) - Many gas ranges have feet & sit up off the flooring so no hw would look odd - those that don't have feet typically have a storage drawer - so the heat is far enough away with either to not be an issue w/the flooring. good luck...See MoreKitchen Design help - first draft from cabinet company
Comments (15)Several people here have mentioned that if your KD doesn't lay it on the line and let you know why you can't have what you discussed within your budget (or what it would cost to have what you discussed) -- in addition to your budget -- it's not so great. I agree. Mine took my total budget and came up with a sadly uninspirational plan that looked just like my old kitchen -- no creativity, no originality. It was thermofoil shaker style cabinets, 23 total. It included nothing but the cabinets, quartz countertop, and their installation. Any "style" or details in this kitchen now, are the result of my request. All I "requested" were two glass cupboards and some extra shelves but the company charged me 30K. No new appliances, no new flooring or structural changes. It was astounding and I should not have signed until I considered it carefully. Problem is, they charged a $1000 for the plan to be made. They charged another $5000 to "release" the plan so that you could use it with your own cabinets and contractor, so I was kind of stuck. What is the markup? What is the actual cost of each feature in a kitchen like this when you use a middleman? Who knows? Again, I was stuck. Their contractor turned down my job because it was "too small", so I had to hire my own contractor to demo the old kitchen, my own electrician, and plumber. These KDs were angry when I got my own contractor to move a switchplate because of their measurement error. They refused to cover the cost of moving the switch and when I wouldn't give in, they threatened me with small claims court - (but later gave up. )They made other measurement errors involving items that now do not fit in my "custom kitchen". So, at this point, warranty or not, I do not want these so-called "award-winning" morons in my home to fix anything in the future! (I am still awaiting replacement brackets for the wrong size they ordered originally-- over a month later!) I wish I'd read all these entries first but maybe someone else can learn from my experience. I believe I was overcharged and under-serviced... a sad commentary on my own ignorance and perhaps a sad commentary on the regulation of kitchen designers here in Canada!...See MoreAdvice on Kitchen Layout/Ideas (First Kitchen/First Home)
Comments (6)Luckily, I still had Firefox open so I didn't lose the hours of work I put into it...so here's my reply...again! Ideally, kitchen work flows from Refrigerator/Pantry --> Sink --> Range. However, some common sense does have to be present in that you don't want the refrigerator too far away from the range if you can help it. For example, if you have a refrigerator + 36" counter + 36" sink + 24" DW + 12" cabinet + range...that's probably over 9'...but you can usually do better than that. You also want to be careful where things like the DW are placed...you don't want it in the Prep Zone or in the direct path b/w the range & sink or refrigerator & sink. So, with these comments in mind... First a question...do you need the eating area in the kitchen? You mention a DR...would you be willing to give up seating in the kitchen for a spacious work area? If so, a couple of the plans below will give you that. If not, well I did some w/seating as well. I know you put appliances in specific locations, but if you're open to other ideas, how about something like the first two? They both maximize counterspace where you really need it...between the range & sink for prepping. While they both move the sink out from directly under the window, the still leave the sink very near the window. Since most people spend 70% of their time prepping and only 20% cleaning up, a prep space in front of the window seems like a nice setup. In one case, I added a corner pantry with 12" deep shelves & 15" deep shelves. Most people find that 12" to 15" deep shelves are deep enough and that 18" or deeper are too deep...things get lost. Myself, I have a corner step-in pantry similar to what I put in for you in Layout #1. All my small appliances except my toaster oven fit on the 12" shelves. The 15" shelves provide deeper storage "just in case"...it turned out my potato bins are 15" deep...so it was perfect! [Drywalled pantries are usually less expensive, btw, than pantry cabinets.] In the second layout, I added 5 feet of 18" deep pantry cabinets instead. With an 18" deep pantry cabinet, you have approx 16" to 17" deep shelves inside (account for front & back wall depths). In the third layout, there's a 33" pantry cabinet. (More on the third layout later.) This gives you 3 options for a pantry. Here are the first two layouts that are different than what you specified...note how open the kitchen is with these layouts and how much counter & cabinet storage you have. Layout #1 Layout #2 Layout #1A (Layout #1 w/an eating area) This next one has a small eating area...basically, room for two. It allows you to have a little more room for counters/cabinets than the full-size eating area. (It also shows you more options for seating in the kitchen.) Layout #1B (Layout #1 with small eating area) Layout #3 tries to give you the appliance arrangement you specified while also giving you some decent work space. However, notice how the refrigerator/pantry wall, especially, is "heavy". You come very close to creating a "black hole" corner b/c of the bulk of the refrigerator so close to the window wall. The other issue is that the DW is in the path b/w the sink & range...which is also the space that's most logical for prepping. This first one has the small eating area. It allows you to have a little more room for counters/cabinets than a full-size eating area. Layout #3 Layout #3A Full eating area (like in Layout #1A) ... Which is my favorite? Layout #1. I think it has the best of everything...lots of pantry storage + lots of cabinet & counter space and better balanced with respect to counter space than the others. If some seating is a must, then Layout #1B....See MoreRange Hood first or wall cabinets first?
Comments (10)Patricia, I'm guessing that was for me? Perimeter splash with something different behind the range/hood? Interestingly, the large Tuscan style kitchen was our last kitchen (Pre-Floods 1 & 2 : ). Although this is going to be a very different style, DH is really pumped up about the two choices, although we haven't purchased yet, so I would be very open to your (and others) input. Our info: Wall color: Sherwin Williams Crushed Ice. The rendering on my monitor makes it appear warmer than it is in our well-lit kitchen. There is is almost completely neutral, in the adjoining room it comes off more grey. Cabinets will be shaker and white ~ a rather 'white' white (I do not have a name as it is being done by our cabinet maker and they call it 'Chandler White). That shade looked better with our light, paint, floor, and counter material than the 'less white' option. Our floors are American Stone & Tile Ranch Wood in "warm brown" (which is also NOT a 'warm brown' but a nice balance of grey tones with not-warm wood tones. Counter tops will be White Macaubus Quartzite. The selection for behind the hood/range is also a quartzite but rough and stacked. It is called Ostrich Gray Ledger. This is the best option I have for posting a pic right now, and it doesn't really capture the texture & nuanced grays: OstrichGrayLedger The back splash around the perimeter picks up the veining in the quartzite: Dunes Platinum Wave 3x12 Glass: DunesPlatinumWave....See More- 6 years agolast modified: 6 years ago
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