I called GE & they turned out to be useless. I only wanted to find out if the airpocket was normal or if something needed to be done. The person who answers the GE phone couldn't understand that I was talking about a part inside the microwave. They kept saying that it was cosmetic & I was lucky that cosmetics are covered for 30 days and I called within the 30 days. I tried to explain that it is the plastic sheet covering the metal screen & asked to speak with a technician. They said they could schedule someone to come out. I denied this as I had terrible experiences with Sears scheduling 3x's and not coming out 3x's. I went on GE's website and they have a statement that says the plastic sheet covering the metal screen is glued on and should not be removed or if it becomes damaged to immediately stop using the unit and call for service. So I called the mom & pop store we bought the microwave from. They immediately said they would correct the problem & would call GE to find out if the unit should be replaced or just the door. Either way, we were told it would be covered under warranty. The next day the store called to say they ordered a new door & once it was in would come out to install it free of charge. They called when it came in, scheduled a date & time and arrived exactly on the date & time agreed upon. This says a lot for those mom & pop stores. The service we received was impeccable. Worth the extra few dollars that we spent to have this kind of service. Oh, they did orginally deliver the microwave to us free of charge too.

You'll find that any method used, which mitigates the potential of damage to the dining room wall, will be expensive, may be the deciding factor and you'll be hard pressed to find a contractor who can legitimately say there will be no damage to the dining room side. This is the method that I have employed on several occasions, and keep in mind that these are full 2" x 4" stud walls. I used a 2x4 pocket door jamb amended to fit. The plaster and lath is carefully removed about 10" up from the floor. Metal brackets are attached to the studs at the bottom plate to add additional vibration damping, and the plaster and lathing removal is then completed. Metal brackets are added at the top plates. The nails are cut and the diagonal bracing is carefully removed. With the depth of cut set at 2-7/8" I use a beam saw to cut the studs for the top of the header height.(The wall may not be "load bering" but it's still weight loaded). Using a 4" grinder with a masonry blade, the plaster which has penetrated the lath is removed adjacent to the studs to allow clear passage of the table of a cordless skill saw to pass unobstructed. The DEWALT that I use is 1-1/8" table edge to blade. The studs affected are then ripped from the header cut to the bottom. The metal brackets are removed, individually, and using a sawzall blade with least kerf, the cut is completed. This DOES NOT affect the lath attachment on the opposing side. The nails attaching the bottom plate to the floor joists are removed and the bottom plate is attached in the 1-1/8" area that will remain. The bottom plate is cut and removed and depending upon the height of your existing door, filler is added or additional floor sheeting removed for the placement of the new jamb. If it's your decision to retain the aesthetics of a cased opening, the jamb will need to be amended to fit. The header and framing is set and the amended jamb is installed. With the jamb set, square and aligned, pre-drill the horizontal 1x slats in the jamb and attach to the dining room studs, further stabilizing them. A flat 2x4 is added to the side of the top plates on the kitchen side. A 2x4 is ripped to create a 5-1/2" wall thickness for the bottom plate and nailed in place. 2x6's are then ripped, installed and they are similarly attached to the jamb. The rock lath secured with screws and the gypsum plaster applied.

Just because I love a search challenge, I found these: http://www.globalindustrial.com/p/storage/cabinets/key/steelmaster-9-hook-decorative-key-rack-putty?utm_source=google_pr&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=Key-google_pr&infoParam.campaignId=T9F&gclid=CN3Qt8HLsrACFYhM4AodIQ5eWA http://compare.ebay.com/like/160809084279?var=lvhttp://www.ebay.com/itm/GHH-Key-Rack-Steel-Black-Willys-Six-Key-Hooks-11-125-Width-Ea-/390422760849 http://www.spacesavers.com/Storage/Letter-Holders-Key-Racks/Metal-Coffee-Key-Rack?utm_source=google&utm_medium=shopping&utm_campaign=feed&gclid=CNrwo-rLsrACFUSK4Aod6H6iWw http://www.buy.com/th/kitchen-key-rack.html

I think you should just be able to sew a rod pocket into the bottom of a rod pocket sheer and you'll be all set. https://www.jcpenney.com/p/liz-claiborne-lisette-rod-pocket-sheer-panel/pp5004950813?COLOR=Ivory&cid=cse%7Cgoogle%7C004+-+home+furn+leisure%7Csheer+curtain+panels_73129240026&country=US&currency=USD&fromBag=true&gclid=Cj0KCQiAq6_UBRCEARIsAHyrgUyKgdghYH5N2xBSt-s4yBqUrwelw7asxPlZMg5U0oSoCIQyX8FQMnAaAk9yEALw_wcB&kwid=productads-adid%5E226832813942-device%5Ec-plaid%5E364229554926-sku%5E73129240026-adType%5EPLA&pTmplType=regular&quantity=1&selectedLotId=7312924&selectedSKUId=73129240026&utm_campaign=sheer+curtain+panels&utm_content=73129240026&utm_medium=cse&utm_source=google