Need help! Low flush toilets keep clogging
6 years ago
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- 6 years ago
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Low-flush toilets and 60+-year old houses?
Comments (4)I am a recently retired master plumber and in all of my 35 years in the trade I don't recall reading or hearing so much mis-information at one sitting. First of all, DO NOT equate the price tag of a toilet with its efficiency. I have two American Standard "All in One" kits in my house, which come as a complete set, tank, bowl, seat, wax ring and new mount bolts, all for the outrageous sum of $99 and I can assure you, if you flush my toilets while your seated you better hang on or you may go down the drain too. The problem with retrofitting low flow toilets in vintage homes IS NOT the toilet. To understand the problem we must first understand a basic premis on how the drain pipes function. In all cases drain lines are sized so that when they are handling the full discharge load from the fixture a horizontal pipe will be 1/2 full. In this manner the depth of the liquid is sufficient to suspend and carry any solid particulates in the waste while still allowing the upper half of the pipe for the free movement of vent air. Originally toilets discharged 5gal per flush and they determined that they needed a 4" line. In the late 70's or early 80's the code standards were changed and toilets were reduced to 3.5gal/flush and the old 4" lines continued to work fine, but in the late 80's they reduced the water to 1.6gal/flush. While the toilets all worked fine they began having serious complaints from customers about lines continually clogging. Most ppl automatically assumed the problem was in the fixture but such is not the case. When a 1.6gpf toilet discharges into a 4" line, the level of liquid in the line is no longer sufficient to effectively convey heavy solid particulates, thus the solids rub against the bottom of the pipe slowing their velocity, while the liquids continue to flow around them. In the course of time, and in this case generally rather frequently those solids collect are not adequately transferred so once the liquid has passed the solids dry in place, which then further retards the next solids to pass through the line and before you know it, you have a clogged line. The solution was to reduce the diameter of the water closet fixture arm from 4" to 3". That reduction in line diameter effectively raised the level of the liquid enough to convey the solids effectively. Now we see all forms of power flush, vaccuum and a number of other so called improvements in the fixtures all promising to eliminate the problems of clogged lines, but that is nonesense. Those improvements do improve how the solids are conveyed up and over the trapway in the fixture, but once the discharge enters the house DWV (Drain, Waste & Vent) system it is faced with the same problem as before. When retrofitting older homes, the correct solution is to remove the 4" fixture arm and replace it with a 3" fixture arm....See Moretoilet acts like it is clogged but is not???
Comments (16)I think you may have missed the real problem: the jet/hole shooting water toward the back of the toilet to get the siphon started sooner. I cleaned mine out and fixed it nicely. Here's how 0. clean your toilet if you need to, this involves putting your hand in the bowl 1. turn off the water supply to the tank 2. flush, holding down so the tank and water level in bowl get as low as possible 3. if you want, use rubber gloves, take a screwdriver (medium shaft length, as short a handle as possible) and poke it into the little hole (towards the front of the toilet), scraping off as much of the scale as you can. Voila. While you're at it, you may want to see if any scale has built up on the underside of the rim as well, and of course you can use your screwdriver or a pumice cleaner to get any scale off the bottom of the bowl into the siphon itself. 4. clean up & done...See MoreWater Pipes keep clogging up
Comments (14)Umm. I would guess that OSHA would be interested in these pics. People are injured or die all of the time when the sides of a hole cave in and trap the worker. They suffocate because the dirt around them prevents them from inhaling - even if their head is above ground. They also suffer oxygen deprivation to the limbs because blood flow is cut off. To prevent that, various methods are used including a metal structure lowered into the hole to prevent it from collapsing while the worker is below grade. Trenches over 5 feet deep must be supported in such a manner. To be down 12 feet with no protection is major stupidity and the supervisor should be called out on this. Really - make an issue of it... Send the photos to OSHA and the head of the department. The next guy in the hole may not be so lucky. Education and enforcement is the only way not to end up with dead workers. Here is a link that might be useful: Trench OSHA Quick Card...See MorePipes 'hum' when toilet is flushed and water pressure is low
Comments (5)TWO possible causes I've personally encountered. The first fix is FREE, the second one is cheap. 1) The air columns in your arrestor tubes have been absorbed over time by the passing water, and the rapid action of your toilet's automatic fill valve is causing water hammer--not just annoying, but damaging to your pipes! You simply need to drain your pipes and let the arrestor tubes refill with air. You do this by shutting off the water to the whole house, then opening the highest faucet in the house (to let air in), then opening the lowest faucet (to drain as much water down a drain as possible), then lastly, open the very lowest point in the system, which is usually a toilet shutoff valve, or an outside/basement hose bib. (You will need a pan under the toilet shutoff valve.) When the draining is complete, close all these fixtures. Note that turning the whole-house valve back on will likely kick loose a lot of sediment. This sediment can clog sink faucet aerators, and ruin toilet fill valves... SO, turn on only BATHTUB faucets, as they are full flow, and have no restrictors or screens. Let the tub(s) run until all the spitting and spurting is over, and they're running clear and quiet. If the problem was water hammer, you should be cured, otherwise on to #2. (Your time has NOT been wasted, as you should do the whole-house drain-down annually anyway, for these very reasons--to clear sediment, and prevent water hammer.) 2) Your toilet fill valve has sand/sediment in it, or some other fault, and needs cleaned or replaced. About $0 to dissassemble and clean, or $7 to replace, ASSUMING you can do-it-yourself. Flushmaster if you want an all-in-one solution. PS: Thank you for your service to the nation, and WELCOME HOME! (My brother returns from "the 'stans" on Friday.)...See More- 6 years ago
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