The wide blade one is either an old style fescue, like Kentucky 31, or a weed grass. Hard to tell from the one pic. Its a clumping type grass. When I see one in my yard, I just grub it out and either re-seed or stick in a bit of sod to replace it. That grass seems to want to grow along hot sidewalks more than my improved grasses, so, sometimes there I will just dig out a length of it and lay sod in its place along the concrete.

whatever that weed is we don't see it much on this forum. My first choice for a weed killer would be Weed-B-Gone. Second choice would be Weed-B-Gone Chickweed, Clover, and Oxalis killer. Third choice would be Brush-B-Gone. Those are three increasingly effective varieties of the same weed killer. The grass looks more like bermuda than zoysia. Is it still growing? Can you pull up a surface runner and take a picture? Does it get seed heads if you don't mow it for a week or so? Can you take a picture of any seed heads? Where do you live? Zones don't matter. We need the city or zip code to help you better. You need to calibrate your sprinkler(s). Put some tuna or cat food cans around the yard and turn on the sprinkler. Time how long it takes to fill the cans. That will always be your watering time. If you have a zoned system do that for each zone. Once you have done that calibration, there will be an inch of water in your soil. When you get back with your location I can tell you more about when to water again. It won't be for a couple of weeks, so don't get panicky. 60 days is not long to go from beautiful to this. I suspect the lawn had been nursed carefully while it was for sale and now it has collapsed. If you live in El Paso or west of Junction, I will change my story on that. For right now, I would apply a starter dose of organic fertilizer along with the water mentioned above. For fertilizer you can use corn meal, alfalfa pellets, or Milorganite. Those are in order of increasing cost. You can get the first two at a feed store. They might have Milorganite there, too, but for sure at a garden store. A bag of corn meal should cost under $10. A bag of alfalfa pellets (rabbit chow) should be around $12-$14. Milorganite might be on sale for $8 but usually it's above $16. The application rate for the first dose would be 10 pounds per 1,000 square feet. Then 3 weeks later you can go up to the normal dose of 15 to 20 pounds per 1,000 square feet. This should correct any soil biology issues. This is in addition to the weed n feed you already used. In the future stay away from those. If this works for you, I'll be surprised, but fine. Usually those don't work well as either weed killer or fertilizer. If you want to kill weeds spot spray with a liquid. If you want to fertilize, use a fertilizer. The problem with wnf is you usually need one or the other but never both at the same time. The other problem is to apply it correctly takes two people working in close harmony to keep the grass moist while the product is going down. Then watch the grass for signs that it is no longer growing. When that happens give it one last dose of a very high N fertilizer with very low or zero P and K. After that forget about it until April. Keep it watered once a month during the winter. Mulch mow at your mower's lowest setting two times then raise it up a notch for the rest of the season. Mulch mow 2x to 3x per week at that higher setting until it stops growing.

I'd say 90% chance it's a hybrid bermuda like Tif419 or Tif-Sport. No other turf in SoCal can take the punishment of sports and come back like bermuda.

I'm going with a kind of prairie grass. I yank a handful together with any flower or seed heads it develops and take it to the local county extension agent. They should know right away. And then come back here to tell us what it is.