80's Kitchen Revamp (Counters, floors, hardware, paint, fixtures ect.)
Cibonay Rae
6 years ago
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80's oak kitchen layout question
Comments (16)Thank you all for your input. Buehl, you must have a passion to spend time for a stranger! You are correct about the fridge encroaching on the entryway there - that was my concern also. The KD actually left the sink below the window and extended the counter around the corner and had the range out in the middle of the kitchen. My main "annoyance" is my free standing fridge not integrated into my cabinetry and sticking out so far, but there isn't room in that space for a wider but less deep fridge because there is a window right at the fridge's edge. There is a small 9 inch cabinet next to the dishwasher that could be omitted, but then I would lose 9 inches of counter space. Also, the pie safe wall is exactly 36 inches, so there would be no room for any cabinetry around it there either. If I left things as they were, any ideas on how could I integrate the fridge better? Could the cabinet currently above the piesafe be altered to use above the fridge? Would that give a more finished look? Dianalo,I have considered painting the top cabinets just for the change, but I know it will be time consuming, and too expensive to pay someone to do it. I do like the idea of some open shelving also. We converted a small coat closet into a pantry which is on the other side of that pie safe wall, so I have plenty of storage now. Definitely want to keep that idea in mind. Sparklekitty, thank you for your honest input-that is what I need. In fact, that was one reason we moved the fridge because of the lack of a landing area, and it was the only spot where the piesafe would fit. Again, thank you all for your honesty. I just don't want to do the headache and expense of new cabinets if it's really not going to be a vast improvement! I think if I can somehow integrate the fridge more, new countertops, flooring, sink, fixtures, lighting, etc. I will be satisfied. I am sure I will be back with more questions. I hope you all will be patient with me. My hubby won't get on board with me, so I'm pretty much on my own. Am so glad for the experts on the forum!...See MoreAdvice for DIY kitchen revamp
Comments (23)I agree with ci_lantro that one of the first major projects needs to be removing all the paneling in the house that doesn't have drywall under it and getting some drywall up due to that fire issue. However, that's a huge job and can get expensive so, for now, I'd paint the paneling and get settled in. Then, as it sounds like your budget is tight, I'd start with removing the paneling in whatever room will people will see the least, probably a bedroom, and you and your husband should hang the sheetrock, mud and tape it yourselves. Then rent a sprayer and spray your own plaster. Or, if you want some texture, trowel it on by hand and experiment with how to make different textural looks. I say this because professional hanging is expensive. You can cut costs dramatically if you do this yourselves. But it is something that takes practice to do well. My husband and I have learned to do this because we own several rentals we've rehabbed. The ones we do now look so very much better than our first efforts. Google around for tutorials/videos about how to do it. It's not really that hard. It's simply a bit of an art to get walls smooth so seams don't show. Didn't you have a home inspection before purchase? If so, it seems this should have been something brought to your attention and the price adjusted to account for it as I don't believe it would meet your local building codes. At least it wouldn't in my area. It's something to check into as you may have some legal recourse for damages if owners and realtors didn't reveal this information to you. Also legal recourse against the inspector. I'm not Perry Mason so I might be all wet on that but I'd sure check into it if I were you, just in case. The small cost of a consult with an attorney would be worth it if you find out that you do, indeed, have legal standing to sue for damages....See More80s oak kitchen--any thoughts?
Comments (48)If you don't want "nasty plastic chemicals" I assume you are ripping out the vinyl flooring and replacing it with ceramic tile, which unless you are on a slab will necessitate reinforcing the floor and putting down hardibacker. ESPECIALLY given that they nearly always use some version of OSB as floor underlayment. It isn't the load bearing capacity that is the problem, it is flexion. If your floor flexes with vinyl or wood its not a big deal. The same amount of flex with tile will crack tile and/or grout. I would never go larger than 12" tile on wood underlayment no matter how it is pumped up. Anyone who tells you you can cheap out on your underlayment is either an idiot or they're lying to you. I LOVE tile flooring - but unless you're on a slab its a lot of extra expense. Almost any of the laminate plank flooring will be a better option on a wood underlayment without additional expense. In other words, your best bet to replace that floor is "nasty plastic chemical having" vinyl sheet flooring expense-wise (and even appearance-wise, many vinyl sheet flooring designs are QUITE attractive), or laminate plank. The only thing I find "wrong" with the kitchen as it is is it seems dark, but that could be a function of your photography. There is no reason to replace those cabinets and you would have to pay a LOT to get similar quality. I would strip and refinish in a lighter color or paint. As in you paint them yourselves. They make several versions of paint suitable for painting cabinets that show few, if any, brushmarks. If you use the proper prep, primer, and brushes. And patience. I don't care for the flooring but wouldn't replace it unless it is actually worn or I was flush with money. The vinyl flooring I've seen in Home Despot is way uglier though so - really I think you're sort of lucky with what you have. Actual flooring companies undoubtedly have more options but will also (undoubtedly) be more costly than the Big Box stores. Watch for laminate plank on sale. That can be quite attractive and affordable at the right price. This is a minor quibble but those curtains are TOO long. Personally I don't want curtains draggling in the overspray from my sink. Hem them, replace them, or raise the rod. Mostly I don't think there's a thing wrong with your kitchen. I'd leave it alone unless you know you're going to be in it for years and years, in which case do whatever you want to it. "Upgrading" for sale is also not sensible. You will DEFINITELY NOT get your money back in a mere 2 or 3 years. I would also never put a rug in a kitchen. They get nasty fast. Comfort mats in front of work areas, sure. Rug - no. And that rug in the picture is way uglier than the floor itself. IMO....See MoreGoodbye 80s oak, hello to what?
Comments (11)Ah, I don't see the disharmony between the floor and the furniture you have shown us, on my monitor. The light oak floor is very neutral IMO. The way people get into trouble with mixing woods seems to be when they try to bring in the driftwood, the grays, the artificial white, or the very red. Those shades are pickier about playing nicely with natural wood tones. I have an oak floor that was left natural when refinished, but has darkened to more golden (some would call it orangish) tones over the past 20 years. Still, it is living happily with my 1930s era mahogany dining pieces, my very very old, very dark wood secretary, my 1990s ash wood table, dark cherry end tables, and so forth. However, that is just my opinion - and my house -- if you feel that the wood elements are disharmonious, or the floor color is ugly to you, of course you can restain. But, to preserve the prairie feel of your house, I wouldn't make any drastic color change (like going very dark) -- just tweak the tone to one that works better for you....See Morejhmarie
6 years agolast modified: 6 years agoapple_pie_order
6 years agoCibonay Rae
6 years ago
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