I think I have the same exact cabinets! We couldn't afford to swap them out and painting them was almost as expensive. We changed the floor and updated the appliances and updated the knobs and pulls and it really helped. The owners before us had orange laminate and replaced it with granite and that looks much nicer, but I probably wouldn't have done it myself. The new appliances are more effective and more efficient and I love their features and money-saving efficiencies. It was easier for me to justify that to myself and the metal appliances and neutral floor help update the whole kitchen. Perhaps that might work for you? A friend sanded and re-stained her own cabinets to save money, just doing a few at a time, so that may also be an option but it was truly a labor of love. Very time-consuming.

Thanks sunnymollly. Any chance you have before/after shots, or even just "after" ones? With these cabinets I keep thinking, "at least they aren't cathedral" (no offense cathedral owners) and the cabinets do go to the ceiling, so they aren't dust catchers. What did you choose for the flooring, tile or ? I would like to have new appliances and these have certainly lasted a long time. The fridge is the old-school size, so if I want "counter depth," that mean new cabinets. Hmmm.....

I love your breakfast nook! And what a large space too. I think if you are only there a few years it is more a refresh to get by room. It has a sweet vintage vibe! I could see a retro checkered linoleum floor, a big chill retro fridge in a red or turquoise, a smeg toaster and microwave in a matching color, new fun hardware and quaint white linen curtains hung on the bottom half of your windows.

Aqua with oak

Pink

I think new flooring would be a help if that is in the budget. If the countertops are in poor shape, consider new laminate. There is stock laminate which is not very expensive at most home center stores. They only carry it in a handful of styles, so not as much selection. Do not have the 4" splash added to the countertop (not an option with stock laminate - it comes with the splash) and do an inexpensive cream subway tile. Add some hardware and fiddle with your drawer glides so the drawers are straight. Another thing about stock laminate is it comes in set lengths so it has to be cut to the right size which might slightly increase the installation charge.

This is my budget basement kitchenette made with my original 70's cabinets (refinished) I used stock laminate ($280) and a beadboard backsplash. I did not have any uppers as I painted them many years ago and put them in the laundry room. The install for the counters and setting the cabinets was about $450. I live in the midwest and sometimes our prices are less.

https://www.houzz.com/photos/my-pics-work-in-progress-phvw-vp~65270573

My main kitchen is from the late 90's. I did use quartz countertops, but the cabinets are fairly nice:

https://www.houzz.com/photos/my-pics-work-in-progress-phvw-vp~110720042

I don't recommend that with your cabinets if they are not that great, but similar could be done with laminate and subway tile or beadboard. That might not be the style you want though. There are some less expensive granites too.

The floor tile in my basement is an Italian porcelain tile sold by Lowes called Roman Stone Beige.

My "short apron" apron front sink requires an under mount install - hard to do with laminate, but Ikea makes a very reasonably priced apron front sink. Ikea has just discontinued their old style apron front sink and is coming out with a new one - could not find any pics of it though. It might not be out yet.

I did not use the Ikea because I wanted under mount and the Ikea is made of fireclay which is more subject to chips and crazing then my cast iron. However, if you are the main person working in the kitchen and a careful person, the Ikea sink would be fine - again if you like the style. The Kohler Vault - stainless steel also comes in a short apron style (can be installed on a standard sink base) and has both an under and over mount style, but is a little more $ than the Ikea. When we first moved into our present home, we were going to move in 4 years - that was 30 years ago. Make changes for yourself if you think there is a good chance you will still be there in 5 years.

I love roarah's ideas. Maybe Marmoleum flooring would work. I would try a good scrubbing with Old English furniture polish. That could give the cupboards a nice depth- I saw someone do this with an old piece of furniture on another thread and it looked great.

Thanks roarah. Interesting. I'd rather go with something more neutral but I like the idea to "lean in" on the vintage look, and also the way you styled the window--super cute! (It's a garden window btw, not sure if that shows in the photo). Looks like you added a new sink and faucet? So on flooring, maybe the marmoleum click, possibly a checkboard-ish but in neutral colors? My cottage is kind of a shotgun house, so when you open the front door, you'll see 23' of Doug Fir, followed by 19' feet of this kitchen flooring, so I want it to be compatible.

Here are some pics of the counter, including the A+ job they did handling the corner. (Maybe that's the best you can hope for? Who knows?) and the last pic is a close up of the counter. Maybe not so horrible? Could be worse? (I'm just imagining my realtor describing this: "Kitchen could be worse." Lol)

Thanks Rita for the idea on the old English.

Jhmarie, thanks for all your ideas. I'm heading out the door but will read and look at your links later.

oh roarhe, there's something about that kitchen nook--guests love it. We were hosting friends a couple of summers ago, with their teenage son, and at breakfast the 5 us kept crammming into the nook. The guys (all big and tall) dragged chairs from the dining room and crammed in. I kept saying, "We can sit in the dining room" or "we can sit at the patio table outside" but everyone wanted to sit in the nook. Lol.

Here is a kaki checkerboard sorry scale is very off.

I love the pink but I know it is not very conventional.

This floor would look nice too

I think your cabinets are great...I would have to win the lottery to make me get rid of them. They go to the ceiling, they're flat across the top, the doors look to be substantial, you have no desk to contend with and the layout works.

I would do a new floor...inexpensive unobtrusive ceramic (installation will be your biggest hit, here)

Appliances--when we did my mom's budget kitchen, we went to Sears Outlet. Also Goedeckers has really good prices....My local Craigslist has a couple places that have new appliances that (I think) are just older models. You don't need to do this all at once..

Counter...I would get a new counter...You don't have that much of it...We got ours from some guy on Craigslist...chancy I know, but he showed up with a laser and a laptop that measured and showed me a pic...and I had only five choices of granite which was fine with me.

I can tile a backsplash, which means you can, too...Clearance tile at Lowe's or Floor and Decor.

You can do this...

Living in the Bay Area CL is your friend for great higher end appliances.

Jhmarie, thanks for all the info and the links. Your basement--I can't believe those are 70's cabinets. You did a great job refinishing them. Thanks for your other info, including the name of the tile you got from Lowe's.

My cabinets are ok--there are places where the stain is coming off. I guess that's where the Old English comes in. Is that the sort of thing you need to apply periodically?

Roarah, thanks for the additional mock ups and for showing them agains the Doug fir floors. I really appreciate it. Yeah, I was considering khaki and white but...I think my favorite pic is the Black and Tan (but maybe that's the cabinets in that pic look better than mine. Ha ha)

When I went on my walk this evening I realized I'm so sick of the busyness of my current floor that I want to go for something neutral. For some reason, the porcelain tiles I picked up don't look as good in their photo and I thought they did in real life. I've tried several diff tile samples and most of the tans look too grey or almost pink against the warm orange undertones of the Doug Fir.

So it sounds Iike the consensus is definitely replace the floor (and that would allow me to fix that remove the trip hazard) and probably the appliances. So the fridge would be the old-style 30" wide by 65" (?) high. Hmmm...but better than what I have now, I suppose. I'm a little concerned about the partial facelift making the remaining old stuff look even worse. Unfortunately I've seen this before. I.e. Some friends did a partial remodel of a guest bath (I think they kept the vanity) and it didnt come together. Hmmmm

I just looked at CL SF and it was a bust. Nothing like the last time I was there. Now it's basically appliance stores advertising. Last time I found a brand new Blue Star 30" range for $500. Ugh. Maybe FB marketplace, but I am not on FB.

I do think a retro looking Smeg refrigerator is your best bet. They come in plain colors, as well as retro ones and fantastic prints.

I don't think new appliances will bring down the cabinets. I think those cabinets will look great with a little TLC. There may be something better than Old English. Here is a YouTube of a guy using Olde English on his cabinets.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bzwhX3MtxgY

I came across a product called Restore a Finish as well. Here is a video about that.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mhw-pCnRW6Q

To me, the floor is the biggest negative.

I am not sure there would be any huge advantage in replacing the counter. It seems fine. I would consider swapping it out with glacier white Corian if you think it looks shabby.

Maybe some ceramic pulls and knobs, à la McKenzie Childs would add a small dose of color and whimsy.

Probably plainer knobs would be better, but plainer, yet with some color. Oh, maybe Anthropology has something like that. Yup, here are a few. There are many, many more that could be nice.

I'll keep thinking. But I would think the first two steps should be brightening up the cabinets and putting down the new flooring. You will be better able to judge the kitchen after those two things are done.

One of the reasons I went with a bit of a vintage look, both in the main kitchen and the basement kitchenette was that it was a way to help blend newer with older - but I also like that look. I love the look of the Smeg appliances - but they are expensive. Since you have the beadboard around the nook, consider using beadboard as a backsplash.

Even though I like stained cabinets, I might be incline to paint yours. It is good they go to the ceiling, but it does make for a lot of wood.

Another option is to have the inner panel of some of the doors removed and replaced with glass - with or without paint. I remember my grandmothers kitchen with white cabinets and frosted glass.

I retrofitted a plate rail into one of my cabinets - just helps break up the wood. It doesn't look like there is a vent over your range - improving that would be a plus to selling. I got an unpainted wood hood and stained it to match my cabinets:

https://www.houzz.com/photos/my-pics-work-in-progress-phvw-vp~109854029

You would need to remove the cabinet above the range to do this. The same could be done with paint, though the wood hood with vent insert is more expensive than a simple hood.

If you can live without the extra storage, you could remove the pantry cabinet and cabinets above the fridge to make room for a larger fridge. If you paint, you could find some unfinished cabinets at the home center store that are shorter, but wider to go over the fridge, or a carpenter could build you a fridge cabinet:

When one has a less than perfect kitchen and a limited budget, it gives the opportunity to let your creativity go and make a space that is sweet and is not like every one else's kitchen.

Rita, yeah, I checked CL and didn't find much on appliances, but CL can be hit or miss. I also checked Best Buy and aside from the cost of the fridge, the other appliances aren't as $ as I feared. Thanks for posting those videos. I think I may start with Old English. My mom used that when I was growing up; I remember helping her. So I'll see what that does, and keep restorafinish in mind. I watched that video--I was impressed with how it got the paint off.

The Smeg is cute and so are the knobs but other parts of my house have a craftmans look, so I think I'd like to be consistent. I put a mission style knob on the cabinet to the right of the fridge--maybe it's too small to see (or hard to compete with that floor!) FWIW, the cabinet to the right of the fridge and the long bank of cabinets (on the wall by the nook) were apparently added later. They don't match exactly and the doors are flimsier. They are the only ones with knobs. Do you think it's worth it to try to drill holes in the other cabinet doors and install knobs?. I considered cabinet pulls, placed vertically, on the cabinets. Rejuvation HW has some. One size is $9. So adding knobs would be a few hundred bucks plus the work to drill the holes. I'd probably hire a handyman but even so, my sense is that if these are not lined up precisely between all doors, it will be obvious. So I'm leaning towards just replacing the existing knobs.

sandy, thanks for sharing your photos. I can see why you like it. Realistically, I don't think I'm going to paint. I fired myself as a house painter after I saw the superior job that the pros can do. (I painted the master bath and office when I first moved in; my painting skills are just "ok"). Thanks for sharing the photos. What do you love about having a white kitchen--that it's lighter or just something different or ?

Probably, the knobs would come last...

Go to the tile store first...Our local floor and decor has a bulletin board up with business cards...and we get approached all of the time by tile setters who are in there picking up an order.

If you're not going to diy painting the cabinets, then I wouldn't entertain painting (as lovely as it looks) You'll have sticker shock at the estimates (but DO get estimates simply for your own education).

As much as I ADORE smeg...I can't justify the cost. And most likely your "geriatric" appliances will outlast my newer ones...

Some fixes that might help:

--New flooring--love the idea of white and another checkeboard. Then just keep your white appliances.

--Open shelving on the window wall but only if you have coordinated nice glassware, mugs, dishes--maybe all white. You already have so much cabinet storage, thick oak shelves across that wall would lighten the kitchen.

--Roman or wicker shades over the sink.

--New modern fixture over the sink.

--Under cabinet lighting.

--Have a carpenter build a simple banquette in your nook--lidded if you need storage. Love your art over there, so have cushions made that work with the art. Hang a pendant over a thrift shop oak table, possibly painted white or not.

My Houzz: A Modern NYC Loft With Traditional Touches · More Info

I helped out with polishing the furniture with Old English at home too :-)

I am sorry, I forgot about the mission look you mentioned. I would wait until the cabinets are polished and the new floor is in and see if you think knobs would be a nice finishing touch or not worth the effort. The fact that the fronts are a bit unaligned won't change one way or another. And since knobs are not particularly linear, they should't make the alignment look worse. But only if the knobs made you very happy- and helped keep the finish on the cupboards a bit better.

A couple more Qs:

1)What do you think about swapping the stove with the fridge? Currently there is 6" of wasted space to the left of the stove (and I'm left handed. Arg). I could get a 36" wide fridge. Prob remove the cabinet on top. I'd have to move the gas line but last year I had a leak in my 70 year old gas line and they replaced it with flexible tubing and, mindful of a possible remodel, did not thread it up the wall, but just popped in up through the floor. The stove would be moving closer to the gas source, so while it's a move, it's probably the most cost-effective move. Would the stove be too cramped, next to the current pantry cabinet?

2) what do you think of micro/fan over the stove? I don't really like the look but it gets the micro off the counter.

3) what do you think of freestanding stoves? With my big remodel, I planned to do a slide in, but they cost about $1000 more.

Just my opinion....I see plenty of stoves/ovens next to pantry cupboards...as long as you have a landing space your'e gtg..

Is there room for a microwave in the space along the bank of cupboards? Most of them are quite squat, now...

I don't really think a slide in vs a freestanding is an issue for 1000....Nobody will notice and if they do, they need to leave your house :)

A couple of thoughts about possibly moving the range - there are safely concerns about having combustible materials like wood / drywall / studs within a certain distance of a stovetop. These distances are often determined by the stovetop /range itself and sometimes by codes (I think). A free standing range can have issued with the back wall being made of combustable material - even if tiled, because tile won't stop the transfer of heat. I think there may be a stainless heat shield - but I am not certain, and I am not an expert in the area. I have simply seen issues of this sort come up concerning ranges right up next to a wood pantry or slide in ranges up against a non fireproof wall. Get those concerns checked out before changing the location of the range or getting a slide in range.

Not only the gas line but the venting has to be changed if you move the range. Get that checked out expense wise. An over the range microwave (ORM) does not vent as well as a stand alone vent and does crowd the cooking area, but you are right, sometimes it is the best place for it. I would consider fitting the microwave into the narrow wall cabinet - a small one - even just plugged in on the self of the wall unit. You might need an outlet installed though.

Thanks the additional info. My bank of cabinets is 11.5 deep; my current micro is 14.5. That's just the box. I have mine a little away from the wall so there is room for the plug.

Thanks for the all info on the stove. Lots to learn!

Old english may work well enough, but, I would prefer the restore a finish, if I were going to do them, but, remember, nothing will work, if you dont give those cabinets a very good scrubbing, with a good cabinet cleaner, and a little elbow grease.

Here's a list of countertop microwaves by depth from AJ madison in case you consider it.

I have mine over the stove but it vents to outside.

https://www.ajmadison.com/b.php/Depth%3A+12%22+-+12.9%22%3BMicrowaves/N~28+406

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Cat_ky, thanks for your comments. When scrubbing the cabinets, what do you use? The woman in the restorafinish video said, I think, vinegar and water. Is it bad if I attempt with Olde English? I.e. Will it somehow ruin it for restorafinish? Looking at the my cabinets, not all have problems, most the ones used a lot, like the front of the sink and the tall pantry cabinet I use for trash. That one has a lot of damage above the knob.

@penney thanks for the list. My cabinet depth is 11.5 plus I'd need room for a cord. Dang. But I saw some of the shallow ones come with mounting kit, to mount under a cabinet. Hmmm...or maybe just a smaller one, in any case. I mostly use it for heating up small stuff.

https://www.everydaycheapskate.com/home-and-family/how-to-remove-years-of-kitchen-cabinet-grit-and-grime/   You may want to read this on cleaning kitchen cabinets. Old english is an oil, so yes, it will be harder to refinish them, or paint them someday. https://www.diynetwork.com/how-to/maintenance-and-repair/cleaning/how-to-clean-wood-cabinets  Here is another one. http://tips.simplygoodstuff.com/remove-greasy-buildup-wood-cabinets/   Read these all the way through, and then choose the one you want to try. Its not an easy job, and it will take some time, so maybe do a few every day, until they are all cleaned.

Not a fan of the flooring and wouldn't have used gloss white on the mudroom wall but overall a pleasant space. Really like plants in a window.

A straight cornice between the cabinets over the sink halfway between your window and overhead light could hide a pull down shade that could be closed as needed for light control and/or privacy by pulling it down on the sink side of the windowsill so you wouldn't need to move the plants to close it.

The new mini -blinds have no strings ... and they do work -- but shades could work as well.

If you never actually close your curtains, you might consider a swag valance -- top covers any shade and sides cover sides of window frame, leaving window center open.

https://windowtoppers.com/collections/swag-curtains

https://www.touchofclass.com/hellina-long-swag-valance-pair-80-x-63/p/R491-006/

If your appliances still work well, don't replace them.

There are also ways to make them appear to be stainless steel.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_bpzHRLmiNY

Or paint them.

Thanks everyone. I have a few more Qs:

1) I have a 5' wide garden window, single pane that is framed in what appears to be painted aluminum. (Brown). This is another thing that I think may look worse if I start to fix things up. Any thoughts? It's $$$ to replace it or even replace with a traditional or bay window. I've googled and some people paint their vinyl clad windows. This seems Iike a bad idea. Or maybe I should hire my house painter, he's super meticulous. Maybe that's worth it, pay him a few hundred bucks (?) to repaint the metal frames????

2) Any ideas on temporary quick fixes for the floor? Would more rugs or floorclothes help? Maybe one in the eating nook (4x6) and a larger one by the back door, to cover that whole space so 3x5 (it's the area in front of my W/D closet, btw). I don't want chemical exposure, so doing a quick-fix with vinyl flooring isn't an option.

3) Also, has anyone seen any small kitchen carts that are decent quality? My room could fit one that is 28" wide, centered between the stove and fridge. The ones I've seen (Target ,etc) are all you-assemble-it. I'd rather something better quality, and I'd like to be able to bring something home, see how it works, and return if I don't love it. I could even be open to some other small furniture cabinet, but it would have to look good on all sides. I'm leaning away from any kind of open storage since it feels too visually busy for my taste. My thought was, after I do the other fixups, the kitchen cart could be a pop of color. I'd want something on wheels that I could move. Is this even a good idea? Lol.

@suezbell, thanks for your thoughts. Yes, the window treatment is definitely due for an update. I was considering a wide roman shade (window is 5' wide). Not sure if the mechanics are doing to work, since it's so wide/heavy and I'd have to lean across the counter to reach the pull. And thanks for your observation on where to place it above the window. And..my appliances are old. They are working but have problems. It seems possible that they could completely break in the next 2-3 years (or any day really, lol), so since I'm considering a redo, it seemed good to at least consider that now. Thanks for your thoughts though.

@cat_ky, thanks for all those links. I like that they recommend using natural ingredients. I think I'm going to start with the least toxic stuff first (like Dawn dish detergent to cut the grease, and then maybe baking soda) and see what helps. And thanks for the heads up that this may take some time. I won't try to rush this or squeeze it in between other activities. Yesterday I picked up some Olde English and gloves when I was at the hardware store for something else. Thanks!

Are you still looking for a start/stop point? That's sometimes the toughest part.

If your window is good and not drafty, then I wouldn't replace it. I didn't notice it before, so maybe that's a good reason not to paint..I would do matching pots and herbs and not do a shade, tbh....I've put some asparagus fern in my bathroom window to act as a more attractive window treatment...I'm super happy with it as it adds a layer of texture/interest :)

No quick fix for the floor. Get an estimate on replacing. Measure the square footage yourself to get a loose estimate. You'll thank me.

Love the kitchen cart idea...don't have any to recommend...

Yes, I'm still trying to determine the scope. For a year, I've been considering a big house remodel, but this week decided against that. Since I'd already been working with KD at a couple of home stores, I decided to get their bids on the cost of cabinets with my existing floorplan. I guess I want to know how much I'm saving by keeping ye olde oak cabinets, and whether it is worth-it. I also emailed the realtor who sold me this house (about something else) and may get her feedback on the likely return of doing a kitchen facelift (or Botox) vs. remodel.

On the window, someone had recently assessed my home for energy efficiency and said that window was not efficient. I live in CA, so it's relative. I think if I put an attractive (yet insulated) roman shade on that window and close it at night that would help a lot.

Darn, no magic fix for the floor :( I'm still happy covering up part of it with that rug---and it was free! Yay!

Thanks for the confirmation that the kitchen cart could help.

Does the possibility exist that there are hardwoods under the vinyl?

If not, you could do the peel and stick for a cover up. Also they make those for backsplashes, too...

I think the Doug fir from the front of the house runs part way into the kitchen. Previous owners have bumped out that room twice, so it definitely doesn't run to the back door. FWIW, the subflooring won't support wood floors (would need to be redone.) Thanks for the ideas on peel and stick. I want to limit my chemical exposure so I'm trying to avoid anything vinyl or laminate. (Since I don't have enough constraints). But thanks of thinking of that.

FWIW, I priced out window options at a Milgard online store (window 61 wide by 42 high). Garden window is $1452, bay window (fixed in the middle, double-hung on sides) $754. Three double hungs in a row are $800-something. A picture window in the middle flanked by double-hungs is $707. A fixed picture window (bad idea in a kitchen, IMO) is less than $300. Obviously just materials and some random site on the web but interesting to see the approx comparison. I'm sure the labor is highest to install the garden window, then the bay, and then the other ones are likely to be cheaper.

Ceramic or porcelain tile is going to get expensive. If your subfloors won't support wood, they won't support tile. If you want to limit chemical offgassing, I'd look into marmoleum or cork. It should be less expensive and you won't be dealing with appliances being boxed in by the combined height of tile and cement board.

@katin, thanks for your comments. The problem isn't that the subfloors aren't strong enough but that there are narrow gaps between the boards. (So if you nail board, there's a chance you may hit the gap). My GC said this problem would be solved w/ tile and the backer board. Are those green materials less $? I thought marmoleum click ran about $6.50 a square foot. I've seen porcelain tile for that price or less. Part of my goal is to ensure good resale. Not sure how popular those materials are. At the flooring stores they said they don't sell a lot of it, so it makes me think most people don't like it, unfortunately. Thanks or your thoughts.

I've seen the marmoleum click anywhere from $4.75 to $6.50. Where I think you'll save is in labor. If you're in an area that doesn't tend to follow trends, you may be better off with ceramic though. It may be what is expected in your area. Have you looked online at what's for sale in your home's price range to see what other homes are using?

That's good point, about looking at other homes. I've only been looking at the big-picture stuff---did they remodel their kitchen or not? Etc. thanks!

You're welcome. If you're considering resale in the future, it's always good to know what's going on in your area. Good luck!

If you don't want "nasty plastic chemicals" I assume you are ripping out the vinyl flooring and replacing it with ceramic tile, which unless you are on a slab will necessitate reinforcing the floor and putting down hardibacker. ESPECIALLY given that they nearly always use some version of OSB as floor underlayment. It isn't the load bearing capacity that is the problem, it is flexion. If your floor flexes with vinyl or wood its not a big deal. The same amount of flex with tile will crack tile and/or grout. I would never go larger than 12" tile on wood underlayment no matter how it is pumped up. Anyone who tells you you can cheap out on your underlayment is either an idiot or they're lying to you. I LOVE tile flooring - but unless you're on a slab its a lot of extra expense. Almost any of the laminate plank flooring will be a better option on a wood underlayment without additional expense.

In other words, your best bet to replace that floor is "nasty plastic chemical having" vinyl sheet flooring expense-wise (and even appearance-wise, many vinyl sheet flooring designs are QUITE attractive), or laminate plank.

The only thing I find "wrong" with the kitchen as it is is it seems dark, but that could be a function of your photography. There is no reason to replace those cabinets and you would have to pay a LOT to get similar quality. I would strip and refinish in a lighter color or paint. As in you paint them yourselves. They make several versions of paint suitable for painting cabinets that show few, if any, brushmarks. If you use the proper prep, primer, and brushes. And patience.

I don't care for the flooring but wouldn't replace it unless it is actually worn or I was flush with money. The vinyl flooring I've seen in Home Despot is way uglier though so - really I think you're sort of lucky with what you have. Actual flooring companies undoubtedly have more options but will also (undoubtedly) be more costly than the Big Box stores. Watch for laminate plank on sale. That can be quite attractive and affordable at the right price.

This is a minor quibble but those curtains are TOO long. Personally I don't want curtains draggling in the overspray from my sink. Hem them, replace them, or raise the rod.

Mostly I don't think there's a thing wrong with your kitchen. I'd leave it alone unless you know you're going to be in it for years and years, in which case do whatever you want to it. "Upgrading" for sale is also not sensible. You will DEFINITELY NOT get your money back in a mere 2 or 3 years.

I would also never put a rug in a kitchen. They get nasty fast. Comfort mats in front of work areas, sure. Rug - no. And that rug in the picture is way uglier than the floor itself. IMO.