Paint color advice for boring brown house with honey oak trim!
denaeng
6 years ago
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paint colors with honey oak cabinetry
Comments (26)Jenn Not sure if this was suggested yet, but - I would def consider something in the terra cotta/orange family - honey oak has orange undertones. here's a nice color not sure what the brand/name is http://www.fitzdecarts.com/images/Interiors%20+%20Projects/024.JPG I would paint the crown & base white & chair rail same as wall color unless you are applying beadboard - so as to not break the wall up. ANother nice hue by Devine pain http://blog.devinecolor.com/images/86.jpg This would make the cabinets not stand out & be a focal point rather be a little subdued - See how the wood is blending w/paint color in the "happy family" pic http://cdn-write.demandstudios.com/upload//1000/200/70/5/111275.jpg Link to My3dogs, very talented decorator on GW - don't know if the color works for you application http://ths.gardenweb.com/forums/load/decor/msg1013001522136.html Find your colors - get sample paints - paint either directly on the wall LARGE 10 x14 or so, near cabinetry in several places - look at it in different lighting/times of day photo it - you'll get lots more help best to you...See MoreHoney Oak wainscotting - LVP options? Paint trim?
Comments (2)What did you end up doing? I have similar trim colors and cabinets...See MoreUpdating Honey Oak Home
Comments (4)Your hardwoods are 18 years old. They are old enough to have a full sand and refinish done. It is time. The 'honey' oak isn't a stain. It is an OIL BASED FINISH. Yep. The urethane finish they used 18 years ago was oil based. And oil based finishes TURN ORANGE. This is called AMBERING. The cure for this orange colour = WATER BASED finishes. So...a water based, two part polyurethane (the toughest ones on the market are Bona Traffic HD and Loba 2K Supra AT) will give you two things: 1. A bullet proof finish that will look and feel amazing for 20+ years 2. A clear coat that NEVER yellows - ever. The soft 'butter colour' of the freshly sanded wood will remain the same colour for 20+ years And the third thing: the clear coat will be 3-4 shades lighter than the oak trim (the oil based colour that makes everything 'honey' toned). This shade variation will be, A. Tone on tone = works well together so you do NOT have to touch the trim B. Look quite handsome because a darker trim is fully acceptable in interior design (not ideal but fully acceptable so long as it is TONE ON TONE = see above). Now for the PAINT. Before you do ANYTHING, you need to 'clear your palette' (as we say in the tasting industry). That means you need to WIPE OUT all the colour you have on the walls. Yep. Every stick of it. You want to work with a basic white wall to assess what you REALLY have. The paint colours are THROWING a TREMENDOUS amount of yellow onto your flooring and your cabinets. The RED is then 'popping' the orange and making it stand out (to the point of being in the middle of the road; ready to be hit by a bus!). Once you remove all that yellow based beige in the home (and the 'outstanding' red from the kitchen) you will have a MUCH better understanding of what is going on. The cheapest, easiest way to do with = white PRIMER! Yesssss the REALLY CHEAP product known as white primer. This stuff is on dollars per gallon. A single coat will do almost everything you need. Over the stronger red, you probably need two coats. This does THREE THINGS, 1. It covers all the colour so you can 'see' your house in the natural state 2. It PRIMES the walls so that you are ready for new paint 3. You can use a lower priced 'paint' (don't need the paint+primer expensive stuff) to save more money So the order of business is: 1. PRIME the walls white (DIY friendly and relatively cheap to do...no special skills needed) 2. Live with primed walls for a few weeks (super cheap...costs nothing but 'time') 3. Interview/bring in flooring professional to sand down a small area of wood and coat it with stain/finish patches (make sure you have him/her apply a COAT of finish over the patch) 4. Live with patch for a day or two (or longer) 5. Call refinisher and give them your decision 6. Set up 'refinishing date' 7. Move all your furniture Some people want their walls painted BEFORE the floors are finished. This is the ideal way to do this. Paint splatter is removed by the sanding/refinishing of the floors. The painters still have to use their drop cloths, etc. but they don't have to deal with their usual 'clean up' of the floors. If you want to live with your floors 'as they are' before choosing a paint colour then go for it. Sometimes you have to live with a floor for a while before deciding on the final wall colour (the colours you will live with for the next 20+ years)....See MoreTile advice with honey oak hardwoods
Comments (35)You have sheet vinyl, not linoleum. Unfortunately, people (including floor stores) use these terms interchangeably but they are NOT the same thing. Vinyl is a petroleum product, linoleum (brand name of Marmoleum) is made of cork, wood flour, and linseed oil. Linoleum was the original sheet flooring until vinyl came onto the scene. Marmoleum is naturally anti-microbial against C-diff and MRSA, it is warm underfoot, softer on your feet and back and easy to care for, lasts for many, many years. I have Marmoleum in my kitchen and I USED to have tile—I will never, ever have tile again. People may suggest cushioned rugs in the kitchen if you have tiled floors, but I don’t need anything extra to clean and the idea of rugs in a kitchen just skeeves me out. Make the choice that’s right for you, but I would investigate Marmoleum. Good luck....See Moredenaeng
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