I did figure I would put pots and pans under the cooktop. I have 36" interior dimensions there with cooking utensils on divided tray in top drawer. To the right, I wanted a 3 bank with spices in top drawer, residual pots and pans underneath, towels, misc. items. I don't have the pots yet since we are switching to induction and need to buy new. To the right of that was a bank of two (1 deep for chefs drawer and another deep divided drawer for cutting boards). The left side is what is difficult because I don't have any baking items now but want to learn to bake bread and rolls. But that is going to be our baking area. I suspect things like flour in containers, bread bowls, baking utensils. I don't know if it's better to put these in one large wide 36" drawer or 2 smaller 18" wide banks. Perhaps I can do two large 36" with a divided drawer on top. It won't be symmetrical to the right side but that doesn't bother me too much.

Here is how I would expect a pro to spray paint kitchen cabinets. An amateur job should follow the same path. A brush painted job would differ slightly in that you wouldn't hang the doors to paint. You'd place them on a work table or easel instead. It's time intensive work, and should take 7-14 days for a Pro to accomplish completely and cost between 8--10K depending on kitchen size and amount of detail in cabinets. Remove doors and drawer fronts. Remove hinges and hardware. Clean with Spic and Span Rinse and let dry. Scrape any loose finish. Fill any damaged spots or hardware holes that won't be reused. Sand fill smooth. Scuff sand the rest. Tack off dust. Hang in dust free paint booth with wires through hardware points to spray both sides. Or lay on a spinner, and do one side at a time. Tack off dust again. Spray with shellac based primer. Scuff sand again. Tack off dust. Spray with second coat of primer. Spray with first finish coat of a polyurethane enamel (DIY) Or conversion varnish, (Pro product) . NOT house paint. Never house paint. Spray with second coat. If glazing is to occur, that is next. Spray with clear over glaze that is compatible with base coat and glaze. Add more molding or decorative details to boxes, filling nail holes and sanding smooth. Repeat prep process with face frames and exposed cabinet sides using plastic to create a spray booth on site. If interiors are to be done, they are done before face frames and sides. Interiors are difficult, and add both time and expense to the job. Most interiors are laminate and don't accept paint well. Allow everything to fully cure. That's 7-14 days. Clean hinges and hardware and clear coat if you're keeping the old hardware. Install new (or old) hinges and hardware. Re-install doors and drawers and adjust for proper clearances. If you are receiving or doing a job without this amount of effort, then you are not getting a quality job. You are getting a poor quality job that will not last. Anyone who paints cabinets with the doors on is an amateur and a Philistine, and should be fired immediately. If they paint the hardware too, go straight to shooting them also, and saving the world from such criminal ineptness.

Yes, it can be done, but, why does it bother you if you see the grain? Also you can buy grain filler so the grain isnt so noticable. If you are going to change out all the doors, you may as well change out the cabinets, there wont be much difference in price.

I would go with a medium to dark blue, or a bronze (like Urbane Bronze), or a "weathered wood" type gray that is compatible with your roof - also agree that charcoal would work. Personally, I am more of a fan of bringing a color, whether blue, green, or something else, Be sure to bring swatches, and then samples, to be sure your color is one that works well with the brick and roof. I would say paint the shutters, pillars, and the siding over the portico with the darker, more neutral color, then give the front door (and all of the trim around it) a more "pop" color - which doesn't have to be anything terrible different , perhaps just a few shades lighter/more stand out than the new trim color. (Example, if you chose Urbane Bronze, you could do your door in a compatible, slightly grayish blue). I would encourage you to paint the garage doors in a tone that blends them into the brick more - you want your entry area to be the eyecatcher, not the garage! I know that it is a "rule" that shutters should be sized to look functional, but I don't always agree - in our contemporary architecture, when the window usually lacks attractive framing (like brick mold, for example) and you don't want them to disappear visually, or you need to balance another element (like huge garage doors) shutters can do that - like jewelry. I think that is the case here, and I would not remove them. If you did decide to remove, then paint the window frames in a darker color . I would like to see those painted keystones unpainted or repainted to blend in with the brick also..